01SOMZ28

iTrader: (37)

When I used to run a 100 shot I was using a 52N & 28F, it ran like a champ. Went from a 12.86 to a 11.74

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

From what I have seen over the years I would say the exact opposite.

Most jetting from the manufactures are very rich.

That would have been the 1st thing I said to the OP was ... ITS RICH and I would have been right and it sounds like its still rich.

bongva

iTrader: (7)

Yea I think it's still rich a well. Up top I'm in the high 10s.

bongva

iTrader: (7)

My questions to the experts:
Should I run a smaller fuel jet and add fuel where needed? Or run my current jet and pull fuel?

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Change jet.

bongva

iTrader: (7)

Alright thanks a lot! what jet do you suggest? im at a 30f right now. on the initial hit it spikes mid to high 13s afr, the levelsn off to mid to low 11s, then about 5k-6k its in the 10s.

I hit it at about 3.3k
3.3k-4k 13s afr
4k-5k mid to low 11s
5k-6k 10s

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

I'm probably pretty rich too^. I know I would much much rather be rich than lean on fuel though. I am at 52 31 I beleive

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Why?

2 reasons why 99% of nitrous motors "blow up"

1. Rich (just about everything we hurt is because of this and we run ours leaner than most.)
2. Over timed

Either one will hurt a motor faster than being lean.

mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

I bet your bottle pressure is dropping a bit as you spray it. Buy a nano kit haha.

bongva

iTrader: (7)

Yea no joke it is! I really need a nano kit :/

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

I pull 4 degrees of timing so I should be good on #2, but I have always heard from everywhere that running a little rich isn't bad and running lean is really bad. You're saying running lean is better than running reach? And why is this?

karpetcm

iTrader: (2)

I think when people say running rich is better then running lean they really mean that if you happen to be a TAD rich not 10.5-11.0 A/F but 11.3-11.6 A/F which is not bad maybe for some still rich youll be fine. I think people have made it more then it needs to be about running rich and people have ran with it thinking running way rich or rich is more then safe and your doing the right thing.

There are very knowledgable people here and really everyone is going to have there specific way of how they will mod up there car in particular nitrous. As long as you check your plugs and have a good tune for the shot your running and stay with in the limits of what your motor can handle, bottom end, youll be fine. Really its hard to say if your car will BLOW up or run fine. Every car is different and thats why you have to always check A/F and plugs to make sure your car is liking were its at. Ive ran 3 camaro's with nitrous and so far knock on wood ive been lucky but i havent gotten greedy going to a 200 shot with stock fuel system and crap tune.

Everytime you up the nitrous its not just a matter of changing jets and thats why people get into trouble, its just to easy to change out jets and say the car runs fine on a 150 maybe i should try another 25hp and go to 175 and then blow your sh*t up since maybe you were close to maxing out your fuel system already and didnt pull timing.

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

My current setup is a nitrous outlet wet nozzle kit (100 shot). I run the recomended jets 52f-31n and pull 4* of timing as recomended. I keep bottle pressure from 950-1050. I have my window switch set from 4k-5900 rpm and run br7ef plugs gapped to .032-.034. So I think I have everything setup pretty safe, but to be honest I have went through a bottle and I still have yet to check the plugs. Hopefully the next bottle I will have time to make a run on nitrous only and check the plugs.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Thats the old school way of tuning, you will start to hear more and more the opposite it true. It takes a long time to change stereotypes.

Jsut going by what we have learned in the last 6-7 years of spraying alot of nitrous.
We have yet to hurt anything being to lean.
Most hurt pistons have been from being rich and a few from being over timed.

Little story I have told on here before.
During one of our 1st track outings with the FAST XFI we made a pass on a 150 shot with no extra fuel in the poweradder table.(Thats the same as a clogged fuel jet on your wet kit) The car slowed down 3 tenths and 5 mph, pulled the data log and realized what we had done (A/F was in the high 14's)and expected to have 8 melted plugs when we pulled them. To our suprise none were hurt, they looked like they were brand new out of the box. Did quick compression check and all was good there also. Being one of our 1st outings the timing was very low for the jets we had in the car.
You cant make fire without fuel.
Sometimes we learn stuff by accident thats for sure.

Pete91

iTrader: (4)

Wow I'm learning a lot in this thread. The other day I sprayed the car with my new heads and cam. While watching the afr's they were at like 12.3-12.5 so I haven't sprayed since. I for sure thought this was very lean and could cause damage. After reading the op's post 13's uppon initial hit I don't feel too worried. I will come clean and say I did have tr6's in. I am picking up the br7efs today I ordered 40, so I will be trying to plug read. My kit is a Nos 90mm plate kit. I'm spraying a 125 shot 55N/35F well sprayed it once lol on the new set up

armyboyatc

iTrader: (29)

I am with ATVracer. Lean and no timing is better than rich and more timing. For instance, my car was at 26 degrees on a 150 shot and my NA tune was at 28 degrees and ATVracer and Cam were telling me to add a degree and lean it out lol. Its scary because it goes against what the "old timers" say but its true and it works.

armyboyatc

iTrader: (29)

Here is a plug that I pulled out of my car at 25 degrees of timing. This plug shows barely any timing. Cant remember what ATV and Cam said about the fueling.

bongva

iTrader: (7)

Well honestly I haven't done any plug reading at all, I've just been tuning my car via Hp Tuners and a Wideband. My afr's are a little rich, but I'm getting ZERO knock. Should I still be pulling/reading plugs? or will this do? I suspected that this was fine due to the fact that i dont have any knock according to hp tuners. Any body care to elaborate?

armyboyatc

iTrader: (29)

I dont like to tune nitrous with a wide band because it is a cumulative average. Not what each cyl is doing. How would you know if you had a cyl that is hotter than the rest by looking at the wide band? HP tuners is a useful tool in the process to monitor knock but still, it gives you no idea what each cyl is doing. 1 cyl can make or break your motor on nitrous.

The way I like to do it is - Pull out 3 degrees for each 50 shot which is more than most do but lets keep it safe for now. Then change the plugs to a NGK br7ef NON projected tip plug for a 150 hit. Dont even consider a TR6 plug. NGK's are a little easier to read to me too. Go out and make a 1/4 mile pull on the kit with little to no idle/cruise time on the plugs. The less run time off the kit the better. I literally let off the gas at the top of 4th (6 speed) and shut it down and coast to a stop. Get out and check the plugs and take pics and post them up on here so others can learn. The object at this point in the tuning process is to clean the fuel up. After the fuel is cleaned up you add the timing back in. The important thing here is BABY STEPS. 1 or 2 degrees MAX at a time. I usually do 1 degree at a time. When you start to see the heat mark on the tip of the plug you know youre close. Now, from here is all up to you. I like to think that the tuning window is having the heat mark anywhere from the tip of the plug (safer) to just before the bend (aggressive). If the heat is running into the bend then you're over timed and if you continue to run it like that then you will most likely burn something up. 1 degree in this tuning process can make a big difference on where the heat mark winds up on the plug so be careful, take your time and think carefully if that extra degree is really worth it to you LOL.

The way ive seen it done at the track is to clean the fuel up and add timing till the MPH starts to fall, then pull a degree out and leave it there.

If you have a hot cyl you will see it because the heat mark will be much closer to the bend or into the bend when the rest are showing the heat mark on the tip or inbetween the tip and bend. The way to correct this is to either throw a step colder plug in that cyl or tune off of that cyl. This will usually happen on the #7 or #8 cyl or both on a LS motor. ESP if you have a standard LS style intake.

If you have a direct port then you can tune each individual cyl but not every one is a high roller lol. I sure as hell am not.

Again, post up pics so others can learn. I will try to help as much as I can but I am nowhere near where ATV or Cam are when it comes to nitrous tuning so be sure to listen to them. Dont be alarmed if you wind up close to where your N/A timing is when all is said and done. The motor wants what it wants. Every motor is different. The plugs tell the story.

I hope this helps. Sorry for the long post. If I left something out then feel free to add in or correct me if im wrong.

fst_ls1

iTrader: (1)

add more nitrous if your not happy with 100 shot