Blew the motor
06-14-2012, 12:14 AM
#1
Launching!
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Blew the motor Well I thought that I could just tune with my wide band and not read my plugs....jk guys!!!!! I made one nitrous pass on a 150 shot and got kicked out. 10.65@122 with a 1.56 60'. The oil pressure dropped and the car wouldn't idle. I though maybe a plug strap so I check them all and all was good. Oil pressure was about 20 cruising. I drove about 20 miles before the motor locked up I know I'm stubborn. I think I threw a rod or something. Now comes the question what should I do? 500 dollar 5.3,lq4 with piston and rods,or forge the lil ls1? I have some thinking to do. I'm not up set about it just wish I got that 9.99 pass in but what evers clever lol. Just thought I'd share with you guys.
06-14-2012, 01:49 AM
#3
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Well I thought that I could just tune with my wide band and not read my plugs....jk guys!!!!! I made one nitrous pass on a 150 shot and got kicked out. 10.65@122 with a 1.56 60'. The oil pressure dropped and the car wouldn't idle. I though maybe a plug strap so I check them all and all was good. Oil pressure was about 20 cruising. I drove about 20 miles before the motor locked up I know I'm stubborn. I think I threw a rod or something. Now comes the question what should I do? 500 dollar 5.3,lq4 with piston and rods,or forge the lil ls1? I have some thinking to do. I'm not up set about it just wish I got that 9.99 pass in but what evers clever lol. Just thought I'd share with you guys.
If you ran a 10.65 w/a 1.56 60', your trap speed should have been a helluva lot faster then 122mph.
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06-14-2012, 10:22 AM
#11
Hell I'm probably just going to throw in a set of Manley rods and pistons and the other usual stuff like arp main studs, head studs, coated bearings and such.
I know Manley isn't the first choice of most people, but the rods/pistons are cheap and I know a guy who has beat the **** out of his 420 c.i. nitrous motor with these rods/pistons and it's been together for 3 years of hard hard racing, I mean like 200-250 passes a season racing. You could keep replacing stock short blocks each season or twice a season at however much a pop or forge it now, keep up with the oil changes frequently, keep a good tune-up in it and it will take care of itself.
Last edited by Fbodyjunkie06; 06-14-2012 at 10:28 AM.
06-14-2012, 11:34 AM
#12
Launching!
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I would say it spun a bearing also because I drove about 10 miles with no oil pressure. I was so determined to get home lol. The motor locked up and this is the end of my driving to and from the track streak lmao. Will my 5.3 heads and head studs from the ls1 fit on a lq4? I can get one for cheap, so maybe I'll just throw my cam and heads on and be out next week end lol.
06-14-2012, 01:56 PM
#13
I would say it spun a bearing also because I drove about 10 miles with no oil pressure. I was so determined to get home lol. The motor locked up and this is the end of my driving to and from the track streak lmao. Will my 5.3 heads and head studs from the ls1 fit on a lq4? I can get one for cheap, so maybe I'll just throw my cam and heads on and be out next week end lol.
06-14-2012, 04:25 PM
#14
We can forge your motor in house and have you running again in no time. Give us a shout and we can go over the options and pricing to get you racing again.
Thompson Motorsports
972-853-0518
Thompson Motorsports
972-853-0518
06-14-2012, 11:40 PM
#16
Launching!
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Well I started pulling the car apart tonight. I am going to try and get the motor pulled tomorrow after work. Unfortunatly this little ls1 is getting put to rest, I got a killer deal on a lq4 I'm picking up tomorrow maybe when that blows up or over the winter I'll give TMS a shout, and btw I spoke to Kyle today about a forged 347 he was very helpful. I should have it back together next week, but I don't know what the extent of the damage is going to be, I hope that I didnt bend any valves or warp the heads because when the motor locked up and I coasted to the side it was like a steam show with collant coming out of the over flow.
06-15-2012, 01:22 PM
#18
Launching!
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I would have it together tomorrow night, but I want to bring the heads to the machine shop. Do you guys think I should change the rod bearings or just run it as is? Also what kind of increase could I expect if any from ls1--->lq4? Obviously I'll loose about a tenth in the 1/4 from the weight, but will I make a little more power too make it even out like I never swapped anything. I will be 3500lbs with the iron block though.
