Powershifting On The Bottle
07-23-2012, 01:30 AM
#1
Powershifting On The Bottle For my '05 GTO.
I have yet to run the car on the bottle at the track and before I do wanted some feedback. Running N/A I powershift 1-2-3 and to 4th I step off the throttle then shift. Per the datalog, I shift at ~6400+ with RPM's shooting up to just under 7000 RPM which is where the rev limiter is set. Lowest shift recovery is ~4500 RPM. If I were to set the FJO controller to turn off the solenoids at 6400, stay WOT with RPM's surpassing the 6400 cut off and powershift theory has it that this should work?
As for the launch I leave at 4000 RPM. I know it may depend on how much of a shot one is spraying but suppose I set the controller with no first gear lockout to 50% from 3000 RPM to 4200, 4200 to 4500 at 75% then 100% at 4500.
This is on a Nitrous Outlet plate, Monster 4, QuickTime bellhousing in case of emergency, Speed Secrets (local builder) T56 and Hoosier DR's. GForce stub order is pending.
BTW, I have sprayed the car on street from a roll pilled at 150 not powershifting but never on the track.
**BR6EF @ .044, timing 26*, pump gas running N/A. Will set gap to .035, take 4* degrees out and run Trick 100.**
I have yet to run the car on the bottle at the track and before I do wanted some feedback. Running N/A I powershift 1-2-3 and to 4th I step off the throttle then shift. Per the datalog, I shift at ~6400+ with RPM's shooting up to just under 7000 RPM which is where the rev limiter is set. Lowest shift recovery is ~4500 RPM. If I were to set the FJO controller to turn off the solenoids at 6400, stay WOT with RPM's surpassing the 6400 cut off and powershift theory has it that this should work?
As for the launch I leave at 4000 RPM. I know it may depend on how much of a shot one is spraying but suppose I set the controller with no first gear lockout to 50% from 3000 RPM to 4200, 4200 to 4500 at 75% then 100% at 4500.
This is on a Nitrous Outlet plate, Monster 4, QuickTime bellhousing in case of emergency, Speed Secrets (local builder) T56 and Hoosier DR's. GForce stub order is pending.
BTW, I have sprayed the car on street from a roll pilled at 150 not powershifting but never on the track.
**BR6EF @ .044, timing 26*, pump gas running N/A. Will set gap to .035, take 4* degrees out and run Trick 100.**
Trending Topics
07-26-2012, 01:39 AM
#13
For my '05 GTO.
I have yet to run the car on the bottle at the track and before I do wanted some feedback. Running N/A I powershift 1-2-3 and to 4th I step off the throttle then shift. Per the datalog, I shift at ~6400+ with RPM's shooting up to just under 7000 RPM which is where the rev limiter is set. Lowest shift recovery is ~4500 RPM. If I were to set the FJO controller to turn off the solenoids at 6400, stay WOT with RPM's surpassing the 6400 cut off and powershift theory has it that this should work?
As for the launch I leave at 4000 RPM. I know it may depend on how much of a shot one is spraying but suppose I set the controller with no first gear lockout to 50% from 3000 RPM to 4200, 4200 to 4500 at 75% then 100% at 4500.
This is on a Nitrous Outlet plate, Monster 4, QuickTime bellhousing in case of emergency, Speed Secrets (local builder) T56 and Hoosier DR's. GForce stub order is pending.
BTW, I have sprayed the car on street from a roll pilled at 150 not powershifting but never on the track.
**BR6EF @ .044, timing 26*, pump gas running N/A. Will set gap to .035, take 4* degrees out and run Trick 100.**
I have yet to run the car on the bottle at the track and before I do wanted some feedback. Running N/A I powershift 1-2-3 and to 4th I step off the throttle then shift. Per the datalog, I shift at ~6400+ with RPM's shooting up to just under 7000 RPM which is where the rev limiter is set. Lowest shift recovery is ~4500 RPM. If I were to set the FJO controller to turn off the solenoids at 6400, stay WOT with RPM's surpassing the 6400 cut off and powershift theory has it that this should work?
As for the launch I leave at 4000 RPM. I know it may depend on how much of a shot one is spraying but suppose I set the controller with no first gear lockout to 50% from 3000 RPM to 4200, 4200 to 4500 at 75% then 100% at 4500.
This is on a Nitrous Outlet plate, Monster 4, QuickTime bellhousing in case of emergency, Speed Secrets (local builder) T56 and Hoosier DR's. GForce stub order is pending.
BTW, I have sprayed the car on street from a roll pilled at 150 not powershifting but never on the track.
**BR6EF @ .044, timing 26*, pump gas running N/A. Will set gap to .035, take 4* degrees out and run Trick 100.**
1. Stop using that plug. Br7ef's at about .32 is correct for a basic setup spraying under 175.
2. Set the window to about 3500 to 6500. You do not need them to turn off before the shift is initiated. The only thing to avoid is the fuel cut at the rev limiter.
3. Why is your rpm drop that high? Doesnt sound like your powershifting very fast lol.
4. Pull out more than 4*. I would go with 7* timing retard to begin with. You want to be on the safe side of timing until you get the fuel dialed in. Recommended jetting is not dialed in, its a starting point. Also since your in a goat is probably on the fat side when it comes to race weight and your playing on the streets where you will typically be making pulls beyond what you trap in the quarter your car will more than likely like a softer tune up than what some of the guys you will see running here. Plus, with this method you may not make the power you want at first, but you get to keep your pistons.
5. Dont bother using the progressive on rpm based ramp. It always sounds like a good idea but few end up using it. Use time. It is much more effective and easier to dial in IMO. It is also less relative to the car so it makes other peoples inputs a little more apples to apples.
I like to use this as a baseline for a lot of cars.
.2 delay 50% to 100% with a linear ramp over about 1.8 seconds. Pretty soft but it helps get info rather than raping your tire and getting no good information.
07-26-2012, 08:39 AM
#14
Couple things.
1. Stop using that plug. Br7ef's at about .32 is correct for a basic setup spraying under 175.
2. Set the window to about 3500 to 6500. You do not need them to turn off before the shift is initiated. The only thing to avoid is the fuel cut at the rev limiter.
3. Why is your rpm drop that high? Doesnt sound like your powershifting very fast lol.
4. Pull out more than 4*. I would go with 7* timing retard to begin with. You want to be on the safe side of timing until you get the fuel dialed in. Recommended jetting is not dialed in, its a starting point. Also since your in a goat is probably on the fat side when it comes to race weight and your playing on the streets where you will typically be making pulls beyond what you trap in the quarter your car will more than likely like a softer tune up than what some of the guys you will see running here. Plus, with this method you may not make the power you want at first, but you get to keep your pistons.
5. Dont bother using the progressive on rpm based ramp. It always sounds like a good idea but few end up using it. Use time. It is much more effective and easier to dial in IMO. It is also less relative to the car so it makes other peoples inputs a little more apples to apples.
I like to use this as a baseline for a lot of cars.
.2 delay 50% to 100% with a linear ramp over about 1.8 seconds. Pretty soft but it helps get info rather than raping your tire and getting no good information.
1. Stop using that plug. Br7ef's at about .32 is correct for a basic setup spraying under 175.
2. Set the window to about 3500 to 6500. You do not need them to turn off before the shift is initiated. The only thing to avoid is the fuel cut at the rev limiter.
3. Why is your rpm drop that high? Doesnt sound like your powershifting very fast lol.
4. Pull out more than 4*. I would go with 7* timing retard to begin with. You want to be on the safe side of timing until you get the fuel dialed in. Recommended jetting is not dialed in, its a starting point. Also since your in a goat is probably on the fat side when it comes to race weight and your playing on the streets where you will typically be making pulls beyond what you trap in the quarter your car will more than likely like a softer tune up than what some of the guys you will see running here. Plus, with this method you may not make the power you want at first, but you get to keep your pistons.
5. Dont bother using the progressive on rpm based ramp. It always sounds like a good idea but few end up using it. Use time. It is much more effective and easier to dial in IMO. It is also less relative to the car so it makes other peoples inputs a little more apples to apples.
I like to use this as a baseline for a lot of cars.
.2 delay 50% to 100% with a linear ramp over about 1.8 seconds. Pretty soft but it helps get info rather than raping your tire and getting no good information.
I also like time based progression and not RPM.
Good advice. Just don't get it too rich. 12.0 is a good starting point to shoot for and then read the plugs and adjust fuel jet accordingly to get it a bit leaner, you will probably end up around 12.2-12.4 or at least that's what I would shoot for in your instance. I shoot for 12.7-13.0, but is a whole different combination, fuel, plugs etc.
