noobtolsx

iTrader: (2)

hello im pretty new to the ls stuff but have been reading and researching alot i would like to know what a good ring for a 5.3 would be and what should i gap the rings at?
also would like cam opinions for a stock headed carb swap 5.3 in a 3400lb car on a 200 shot

thanks alot Justin

BottleBoy1

First off the recommended ring gap increase is different from company to company. So with that said it would all depend on Who's rings you buy. I personally prefer the Steel Total Seals. They are pricey but hard as rocks & work Very well. We have pulled many motors down after a season & the ring gap has barely even increased on bracket cars & weekend racers. They go right back in.
On the cam..... ONLY thing I can tell you is your Best Bet is to call CamMotion & give them All your specs & get a custom ground cam tailored to Completely match YOUR build. I Never use off the shelf cam grinds Unless its a must. There is NO point. As the cam is the Most important thing to determine if you have a power house or a turd. All it is a air compressor so the main control on air in & out is Very crutial. You can go with other brands but that is All they do & All they have ever done.
Also the hone finish on the cylinder walls Needs to be correct for the rings you buy or you might Never get them to seat.
Hope this helps!

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

^^^Dude why are you giving info that is for the most part wrong?

Rings gaps are determined by what the motor is used for. Different ring gaps for different power adders, not who makes the rings and piston.

Your engine builder decides the ring gaps. Because only YOU and HIM know how much nitrous or how much boost you are going to throw at it.

Chris@NitroDaves

As 87silverbullet said and i will second him on this....This question will be best answered by your engine builder or any engine builder for that matter.

BottleBoy1

"Dude" let me read off some instructions here @ the machine shop that come with different ring sets. Considering there is Many different ideas on the best type & construction of the actual ring.... YES We go by what they want. We Don't use a Standard measurement on Anyones ring PERIOD. Hell I will start off with Total Seal. Gapless Top style. Top is bore x .009 Second is Bore x .008 Then if you are running there gapless Second Ring style the top is NOW only bore x .008 and the second is bore x .0055. Federal Moguls Plasma Moly & Hell Fire chart wants bore x .007 on both top & second. So COMPLETELY different.
Keith Blacks chart wants bore x .005 on Both rings.
Ross Racing Rings chart is bore x .004 then add .004 to each if 20hp or more per cylinder boost.
Hastings Tough Guy Racing Rings want bore x .008.
These are the SPECS DIRECTLY FROM MANUFACTURE Dude. We use what they ask for here at the machine shop. To say it just goes off the engine builder is NOT accurate. We build many many race engines from drag to circle track & We Don't just use a general formula to figure gap. Every company has there own compounds of the metal they use to construct the ring. With that said they will all have different rates of expansion.
If they Didn't the Leader of the market Total Seal would ask for different gaps depending on which of their rings you are using. They have spent hundreds of hours on the dyno with lots of different race teams trying to learn & gain every tiny bit of power possible. They changed there own chart due to the mass r & d done.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

I tell you what, ask Kurt or Erik do they follow those rules exactly like that on the motors they build. I bet you its no and its only a guide to them.
I guess GM gapped the rings in cams motor for nitrous from the factory with all them 330 and385 shots he has been hitting his stock bottom end with.

josh2002-ws6

iTrader: (98)

On the nitrous motor I just had built we did not go off of what the ring manufacturer suggested. The ring gap was determined by a very knowledgeable engine builder with a lot of experience. Those are just suggestions and do not take in to mind what the motor will be used for specifically.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Gap will be determined by the amount of heat and cylinder pressure the motor will see.

Only your builder will be able to determine where the final end gap is set.

Guidelines are just that, guidelines

A/C(ackerly and childs not air conditioning lol) makes a great set of rings, Total Seal, Hellfire etc. etc.

noobtolsx

iTrader: (2)

ok thanks for the input
another question is a re-ring even needed on a 85000 mile motor?

my plan is to do a re-ring and arp rod bolts on a carb swap 5.3 and see how long it will live and what it will run with a 150-200 shot what do u guys think?
the person helping me is a very talented nitrous and carb guy so it will be on a good tune whats the most u guys have sprayed on stock 5.3 long block with rob bolts?

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

For that shot I wouldn't even re-ring it. Cam and springs and roll out.

Here's one set up for starters.

noobtolsx

iTrader: (2)

do you know how much that car weighs?

would it be worth it to have the 706 heads milled to get cr up to 10-10.2to1 and a clean up port job?
the milling would be free a very good friend has a cnc mill and is very skilled so i trust him
i thinking of a cam in the 23x/24xdur. 58x/59xlift. range on a 112 with a victor jr and a special built 650 carb in a 3300-3400lb car with th400 and 3500 stall

the mild port and milling on the heads and that set up im hoping for high 10s on a 150 shot is it possible?

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

It would for sure be worth having them milled. If you don't mind fly-cutting slightly you could really get the compression up and have yourself a nice set-up.

If you're still debating on a cam just ask around here, there are many vendors with plenty of camshafts to choose from.

noobtolsx

iTrader: (2)

how much do you think i should have them milled how much can i go safely?

i was thinking a custom grind i have a reputable cam guy i as i thought about it a little more i think it would be better to have a little smaller cam so i dont loose all the low end with the heavy car and mild converter

do you guys think the 10 second goal is reasonable at that weight?

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

If they are on the motor, leave them alone. Just cam it as you would an LS1, it will only be down a little power compared to an LS1.

10 seconds will not be a problem as long as the cam and converter are working together to get that weight moving. Need a decent gear too.

noobtolsx

iTrader: (2)

i was planning on pulling them off anyways the intake ports look kinda nasty from bad gas and sitting so i want them cleaned up and put new gaskets figured have them milled as it would be free anyway
cool im glad it possible

noobtolsx

iTrader: (2)

pulled the heads off and for out its a bad so i going bigger im going to step up to the 6.0 i think with the same cam set up
should i go with a 750 or 850 carb?
how much can i mill the heads safely with out fly cutting the pistons?