the do's and donts of a nitrous setup?
the do's and donts of a nitrous setup? did a little searching and looked for a sticky but either im blind or i cant find it. im new to the bottle, my power adder knowledge is in superchargers. looking to build a ws6 t/a ls1 of course, with a nice N/A build with 450rwhp and a 3200 stall without the bottle. then id like to have a 100 or a 150 shot on top for planned races. wouldnt be using it during random encounters. i know very little about the bottle and am looking for a few pointers about what i absoultly need to do/know and things i definitly should never do. what kind of supporting mods will a heads/cam car need for a 100-150 shot? and should i look into a nitrous friendly cam or will the cam im planning on getting, a texas speed 233/239 .595"/.603" on 112 LSA react well to a nitrous shot?
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 225
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Well you can either do it the ghetto way or the right way.
the right way being properly setup RPM window switchs for activation and deactivation, a fuel pressure cutoff switch should pressure drop at all while its engaged. if your looking at more than 100hp shot i would suggest a Wet setup for a few reasons, the biggest being youd have to rely on your injectors not being over-taxed with a dry shot.
the ghetto,cheap way being a full throttle switch only to activate the nitrous, which isnt exactly safe if you happen to miss a shift or otherwise.
Since your building a nicer motor ill asume forged pistons at the very least, and rings specific for nitrous use, ect.
as far as the camshaft goes, most guys wouldnt even bother to spec one for a shot that small. an N/A grind would be fine, but some could argue.
hope that helps somewhat. if youre going to do it, do it right the first time.
the right way being properly setup RPM window switchs for activation and deactivation, a fuel pressure cutoff switch should pressure drop at all while its engaged. if your looking at more than 100hp shot i would suggest a Wet setup for a few reasons, the biggest being youd have to rely on your injectors not being over-taxed with a dry shot.
the ghetto,cheap way being a full throttle switch only to activate the nitrous, which isnt exactly safe if you happen to miss a shift or otherwise.
Since your building a nicer motor ill asume forged pistons at the very least, and rings specific for nitrous use, ect.
as far as the camshaft goes, most guys wouldnt even bother to spec one for a shot that small. an N/A grind would be fine, but some could argue.
hope that helps somewhat. if youre going to do it, do it right the first time.
thanks. now that im on my laptop instead of my phone i do see the sticky and read through it. seems like ill have no issue running the cam i want and that a 150 shot will be far better a power adder than a roots blower or a turbo setup for what im looking for. thanks again.
3200 stall will work fine with nitrous, and a simple window switch with a WOT switch will do what you need the system to do when you want it.
Most kits will have everything included or needed for the install or can be furnished with such. We are dealers for NX and N20 Outlet and can get anything they offer.
My "Street Heat" Stage 2 from our Elite Series of camshafts is 231/238 .61x/.61x 113+3 and will work great with that amount of nitrous. I had a customer with a similar cam with as cast 220cc TFS heads, stock LS6 intake, stock tb, SLP lid, 1x3/4" pacesetters and 3" true duals made 449/413 yesterday on a pretty real world dyno(not a happy dyno as it's a loaded eddy current dyno). With the nitrous that cam profile will make ridiculous torque for a street car. That customer is actually putting a fast intake, a 150-200 shot and possibly a UD pulley and will try to shoot for 475rwhp maybe 480rwhp and more with the nitrous.
Most kits will have everything included or needed for the install or can be furnished with such. We are dealers for NX and N20 Outlet and can get anything they offer.
My "Street Heat" Stage 2 from our Elite Series of camshafts is 231/238 .61x/.61x 113+3 and will work great with that amount of nitrous. I had a customer with a similar cam with as cast 220cc TFS heads, stock LS6 intake, stock tb, SLP lid, 1x3/4" pacesetters and 3" true duals made 449/413 yesterday on a pretty real world dyno(not a happy dyno as it's a loaded eddy current dyno). With the nitrous that cam profile will make ridiculous torque for a street car. That customer is actually putting a fast intake, a 150-200 shot and possibly a UD pulley and will try to shoot for 475rwhp maybe 480rwhp and more with the nitrous.
Get the Lingenfelter timing controller since your an LS car!!! 100 or 150 shot will prolly just get ya started!! LoL Youll want more! Had an ole boy tell me that damn nitrous is like cocaine you cant just do a little..... Lmao
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So to be clear to my dumb ***.
I can do it like the old days and use the basic kit, with a toggle to arm the system, hand held button or micro switch for activation, a propane powered heater and purge it thru the motor lol.
OR
Get something like the Nitrous Outlet "Total Package" deal that will come with above, plus safety switches, window switch, purge, etc?
I'd love to have the complete kit, but I have a bottle, feed lines, solenoids and a fogger nozzle at the house. Hmm
I can do it like the old days and use the basic kit, with a toggle to arm the system, hand held button or micro switch for activation, a propane powered heater and purge it thru the motor lol.
OR
Get something like the Nitrous Outlet "Total Package" deal that will come with above, plus safety switches, window switch, purge, etc?
I'd love to have the complete kit, but I have a bottle, feed lines, solenoids and a fogger nozzle at the house. Hmm
All you would need is a nice controller that uses TPS activation and is also a window switch and something to control timing. Easiest thing in the world 
Nitrous Outlet makes one that has TPS activation and window switch in the same unit. There are a few options out there for timing as well. This crap pops up
in the classifieds all the time so just keep an eye out.
Nitrous Outlet makes one that has TPS activation and window switch in the same unit. There are a few options out there for timing as well. This crap pops up
in the classifieds all the time so just keep an eye out.
FormerVendor
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
From: Waco, TX
A big do of a nitrous is do it right the first time.
1. Make sure that you make solid connections when wiring your system up. Dont use those t clip splice wire BS. Actually take the time to solder you wiring. This will save you headaches in the long run.
2. Don't skimp on your system. Know that do get a good complete system you will look to spend around $1500.00.
3. Fuel system. Stock pump is good for around 450. 255 by its self can take you to around 500-550. 255 with hot wire can take you to the 600-650WHP range. Both together fun about 200-250 bucks. That's cheap insurance to me.
Oh yeah put sticky tires on, remove the 7.5 and enjoy
1. Make sure that you make solid connections when wiring your system up. Dont use those t clip splice wire BS. Actually take the time to solder you wiring. This will save you headaches in the long run.
2. Don't skimp on your system. Know that do get a good complete system you will look to spend around $1500.00.
3. Fuel system. Stock pump is good for around 450. 255 by its self can take you to around 500-550. 255 with hot wire can take you to the 600-650WHP range. Both together fun about 200-250 bucks. That's cheap insurance to me.
Oh yeah put sticky tires on, remove the 7.5 and enjoy
