jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

Car is a 00 TA. TV2 cam, BTR valve springs, new ls7 lifters, ported 241s, ported stock tb, ls6 intake, lid, long tubes, off road y, magnaflow catback, 3.73, 3600 stall, free mods. Frost just tuned it on the dyno on motor only because it split the tail shaft housing. Made about 400 hp. I am set up to pull timing from the iat when the nitrous master switch is armed. Frost set it to pull 6 degrees. I have two stages. First is a dry on the throttle with a .034 jet in front of the maf. Second is wet NOS nozzle in the back of the MAF. It has .047n .024f fir 75 hp. 125 hp total. Does this jetting sound correct. My Marshall pressure gauge on the rail says I have 62-64 psi. Br7ef plugs, red top injectors, racetronix pump and hot wire. My question is when I start to take it to the track and read plugs I plan to go first gear motor, second gear dry stage, third gear turn on second stage. Do I need to make a run on the dry only and read the plugs and then just the wet and read plugs or just make the run how I plan and then read them. Also should I spray through the shift or use the window switch to turn it off before the shift. Thanks for your help.

jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

here is the set up

StrokerTA

I would work on one stage at a time personally.. And NGK 5671a-9 or 10 in it.. And as far as spraying through the gears, what kind of trans is it?

10secZ28

iTrader: (6)

I agree with the above post, work on one stage at a time, once you get the first lined out then tune both together. The only thing i would do different is run a ngk7- or 8

Why did you break up a 125 shot, just curious?

StrokerTA

My bad, i didnt notice the 125total... I was thinking 250+

jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

I broke it up because my original plan was to let the first stage be dry and let that purge itself essentially. Plus me and a buddy had all the stuff laying around. We used to drag race street bikes with nitrous motors. I feel like multiple stages gives more tune ability. I didn't want to buy a progressive controller since we already had all this laying around. And I'm on a true street tire, we'll see how that goes. I'm sure ill end up on drag radials. I may tell frost to pull 8 degrees instead of six so I can comfortably go to 150. With the first stage being 50 dry with 6 or 8 degrees pulled will I still be able to read the plugs or will it be difficult. Thanks for the replies. I haven't been around nitrous in a while but had a Gsxr 1000 with a 1070 and nitrous that went 8.14 but that was dry on c16. So pump gas and wet is new to me. I would love to run a high ten on the bfg street tires though. Trans is stock 4l60e as far as I know. Could possibly have a shift kit. Sorry for the long post.

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

10's on street tires will be tough, but not entirely impossible. I think I could get there on the right street tire, but it would have to be the right tire, not some junk 400 tread wear m/s rated all season. What is your total timing? Mine on 18 degrees was a slug, had to turn the wick up a lot to make it move.

10secZ28

iTrader: (6)

Your 4l60 will let go before you get that 10 sec pass if it is stock.

jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

What the stock trans normally good for? Is the problem rpms,hp,torque,or what?

10secZ28

iTrader: (6)

honestly I have no idea, I have usually destroyed them around the high 11 second area, power is what kills them they are just not very strong from the factory, your 2-3 clutch packs will probably fry first then the rest will go. I have just always ditched them and went with either a th400 or 4l80. Not to say that you wont make it down the trck a few times at that power but it will not last.

jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

Okay that makes sense. Thanks for the help guys.