Bolt ons and 150 shot NANO dyno numbers; Thoughts?
#21
#22
Yeah it's a auto.
Rick from unlimited tuned it, they are a nitrous outlet dealer so I'm sure he used timing y'all recommend. Can't tell you what the timing is set at other than I know he changed it. They also did the resistor mod.
Ok for a little update. I ran a 11.85@122mph with a 2.0 60' launching at 1400.
My previous best was a 12.0 on a full warm bottle.
I'm disappointed in my time only because I know I could've done better. It got colder and I should've launched at a higher rpm. I also didn't hook up my Ssra scoop . I think a 11.6-11.7 was very much doable that night but I only got one pass -_-
My 1/8 impressed me too.
Rick from unlimited tuned it, they are a nitrous outlet dealer so I'm sure he used timing y'all recommend. Can't tell you what the timing is set at other than I know he changed it. They also did the resistor mod.
Ok for a little update. I ran a 11.85@122mph with a 2.0 60' launching at 1400.
My previous best was a 12.0 on a full warm bottle.
I'm disappointed in my time only because I know I could've done better. It got colder and I should've launched at a higher rpm. I also didn't hook up my Ssra scoop . I think a 11.6-11.7 was very much doable that night but I only got one pass -_-
My 1/8 impressed me too.
#23
TECH Enthusiast
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Your 60' blows dude. For a nitrous/auto car I would expect a 1.7 even with a stock stall, you are making insane torque - that should make up for the lack of slip in the stall.
Anyway, in reference to your dyno numbers, your car dyno'd VERY high for a bolt-on/auto car IMO. Also as mentioned before, without knowing where the fuel/timing is before and after, its tough to make a judgment as to why it "only" picked up ~125WHP.
Anyway, in reference to your dyno numbers, your car dyno'd VERY high for a bolt-on/auto car IMO. Also as mentioned before, without knowing where the fuel/timing is before and after, its tough to make a judgment as to why it "only" picked up ~125WHP.
#24
Your 60' blows dude. For a nitrous/auto car I would expect a 1.7 even with a stock stall, you are making insane torque - that should make up for the lack of slip in the stall.
Anyway, in reference to your dyno numbers, your car dyno'd VERY high for a bolt-on/auto car IMO. Also as mentioned before, without knowing where the fuel/timing is before and after, its tough to make a judgment as to why it "only" picked up ~125WHP.
Anyway, in reference to your dyno numbers, your car dyno'd VERY high for a bolt-on/auto car IMO. Also as mentioned before, without knowing where the fuel/timing is before and after, its tough to make a judgment as to why it "only" picked up ~125WHP.
Either I lower my window
Or I buy a stall
Unless I'm over looking something
#25
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From the little I know about nitrous, I would NOT recommend lowering the window switch below 3000 at all. I would definitely throw a stall in there. With the kinda torque you are making I wouldn't go too insane. I would probably go with something between a 3200 and 3600. We have a local out here with a 4000 and on a 200 (I think) shot, the car flashes to like 5600 - too high.
#26
From the little I know about nitrous, I would NOT recommend lowering the window switch below 3000 at all. I would definitely throw a stall in there. With the kinda torque you are making I wouldn't go too insane. I would probably go with something between a 3200 and 3600. We have a local out here with a 4000 and on a 200 (I think) shot, the car flashes to like 5600 - too high.
I'm gonna ask and see which is the best converter for my setup with room to grow.
#27
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The tune is more important than the nano. Dyno's are junk on the nitrous. get the mph numbers as high as possible on the track na and on the nitrous and see what the difference is.
We dynoed a car on a dyno jet took it to the track and ran it as is then proceeded to eat another 30lbs/hr of fuel with track tuning. the dyno's load just is not going ot be correct and your almost pissing in the wind...
We dynoed a car on a dyno jet took it to the track and ran it as is then proceeded to eat another 30lbs/hr of fuel with track tuning. the dyno's load just is not going ot be correct and your almost pissing in the wind...
#28
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Good number imo, I made 406/396 RWHP on motor on a Mustang dyno, and 486/556 RWHP on a wet nx 150 w/bottle heater and no nano. My stock 6.0l head w/ls1 vales are killing me but it is what it is.
#30
I purchased a Nano system for my cab'd 385, spoke to the owner and he stated that the fuel jetting is very conservative. You will have to play wit the jetting some to get it right. I run a conservative tune on my sbc with a big shot plate system 200 shot. Running on the jagged edge will bite you if you are not real careful though.
I got 180rwhp and 220rwtq on a 200 shot wet.
I got 180rwhp and 220rwtq on a 200 shot wet.
#31
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Those numbers seem alright. Hard to tell you whether you have some more left in it without knowing timing, AFR, or seeing a plug. I wouldn't worry about it too much if I were you.
#32
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#33
i noticed a constant torque plateau with my nano setup and my peak hp was basically the same. But I'm a Auto with a stock converter.. I can tell you it hits MUCH harder and it pulls MUCH stronger in top end.. hell i gained 2mph and thats without my SSRA scoop added on..