Pulling timing with Intune?
11-29-2012, 12:56 PM
#1
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Pulling timing with Intune? Just bought a diablo intune, mods on sig, and I wanna spray a 100-125 shot. Would I be fine by pulling the 2 deg per 50hp rule? or do I need to datalog and see where my timing is at on my current n/a tune?
11-29-2012, 08:49 PM
#4
18*, 100 shot. Wideband is a must for this IMO. Then you can move the timing up a degree at a time to get it close. Dyno is a good idea to do this right. You want to know you're making the best mean torque and hp with timing commanded. I'd take it to where you just see a touch of KR then back out 3* from that, it'll put you pretty close.
11-29-2012, 11:33 PM
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18*, 100 shot. Wideband is a must for this IMO. Then you can move the timing up a degree at a time to get it close. Dyno is a good idea to do this right. You want to know you're making the best mean torque and hp with timing commanded. I'd take it to where you just see a touch of KR then back out 3* from that, it'll put you pretty close.
and hopefully they can take it, should i let that happen? it reminds me of a post someone made about KR=someone coming at you with a hammer, would you try to avoid him or you going to let him hit you with it first,,,
11-30-2012, 10:34 AM
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To see peak timing, i can just put her in 2nd and go wot in that gear while looking at the intune dataloging? is that how you read timing? i saw 34ish degrees normal driving, then when i punched in 2nd all the way close to redline timing was @26. so i'm assumig thats where i'm at?? do i have to repeat a wot run on 3rd gear since thats the 1.0 gear and where these cars get dynotuned on?
Last edited by PaSteLaSo4U; 11-30-2012 at 12:12 PM.
11-30-2012, 01:58 PM
#7
18*, 100 shot. Wideband is a must for this IMO. Then you can move the timing up a degree at a time to get it close. Dyno is a good idea to do this right. You want to know you're making the best mean torque and hp with timing commanded. I'd take it to where you just see a touch of KR then back out 3* from that, it'll put you pretty close.
The best info ever for a book called "how to blow your engine up"
That was a little quote of mine I stated awhile back. No matter what a piston's make up is, none of them will stand up to detonation for too long.
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11-30-2012, 03:19 PM
#8
If you actually read what I said there, nowhere does it say put it at 18* and floor it! Holy hell boys, you have to take it slow, "low and Slow"! 18* is a good start on a 100 shot. You have to take it slow... 1st try to 4k rpm, watch KR and AFR. Then 4500 RPM watching KR and AFR... and so on. Again, 18* is a dam good starting point and is right around where that car will end up if hes aiming around 11.8-12.4:1 on the 100 shot. Anyway guys, sorry if I wasn't clear enough
You are going to tune all ranges of the fuel delivery, not just WOT. That 3rd gear pull you speak of is really what guys use to post what HP and Tq they are making. Make sure you are safe in all gears, not just third. You will end up with "an average" AFR across the entire PE range of your VE and MAF tables.
You are going to tune all ranges of the fuel delivery, not just WOT. That 3rd gear pull you speak of is really what guys use to post what HP and Tq they are making. Make sure you are safe in all gears, not just third. You will end up with "an average" AFR across the entire PE range of your VE and MAF tables.
Last edited by MMWS6; 11-30-2012 at 03:25 PM.
11-30-2012, 06:12 PM
#9
If you actually read what I said there, nowhere does it say put it at 18* and floor it! Holy hell boys, you have to take it slow, "low and Slow"! 18* is a good start on a 100 shot. You have to take it slow... 1st try to 4k rpm, watch KR and AFR. Then 4500 RPM watching KR and AFR... and so on. Again, 18* is a dam good starting point and is right around where that car will end up if hes aiming around 11.8-12.4:1 on the 100 shot. Anyway guys, sorry if I wasn't clear enough
You are going to tune all ranges of the fuel delivery, not just WOT. That 3rd gear pull you speak of is really what guys use to post what HP and Tq they are making. Make sure you are safe in all gears, not just third. You will end up with "an average" AFR across the entire PE range of your VE and MAF tables.
You are going to tune all ranges of the fuel delivery, not just WOT. That 3rd gear pull you speak of is really what guys use to post what HP and Tq they are making. Make sure you are safe in all gears, not just third. You will end up with "an average" AFR across the entire PE range of your VE and MAF tables.
You never tune watching knock. You tune off your plugs at the track for timing.
You don't use a wideband and tune off AFR on nitrous. You tune at the track and check your plugs.
There are guys here that tune on the nitrous at the track and there AFR on the gauge reads 15.8:1. In your mind, that's lean as hell. Well these guys tune off their plugs not that wideband. The wideband is just a reference to make sure everything is clicking right. They listen to what the plug is telling them, not the wideband. Timing has no bearing on where his AFR will end up
Then you talked about using the dyno to tune on. That's the worst thing to do. The dyno will not put a load on the engine like the weight of the car at the track. You will end up buring it up at the track if you tune like that. Want me to show you pictures of what that does to your motor?
Just do some research and you will find the best way to tune a nitrous setup and it won't be the way you are describing.
11-30-2012, 06:31 PM
#10
What kind of Dyno are you talking about? I am seriously not playing stupid with you man, but do non-load dyno's even exist anymore? And to add to what you are saying, if you drive to the track, you have to change plugs there and make a pass, then tow the car to the pit and pull the plugs. Adding a little 100 shot to an engine does not require the work that adding 200-250 does, which is what I think you are getting at, no? A half a degree of KR is not going to blow anything up. You keep pushing an engine with KR and yes, you will end up exactly as you say, I aree 100%. I do hope I'm asking the questions that will help everyone that reads this...
12-01-2012, 06:54 AM
#11
What kind of Dyno are you talking about? I am seriously not playing stupid with you man, but do non-load dyno's even exist anymore? And to add to what you are saying, if you drive to the track, you have to change plugs there and make a pass, then tow the car to the pit and pull the plugs. Adding a little 100 shot to an engine does not require the work that adding 200-250 does, which is what I think you are getting at, no? A half a degree of KR is not going to blow anything up. You keep pushing an engine with KR and yes, you will end up exactly as you say, I aree 100%. I do hope I'm asking the questions that will help everyone that reads this...
If your car is tuned right with the nitrous plug in it you can drive to the track on the nitrous plugs. I drove around with br7ef's in my car with no issues. When you go to the track and you don't have anybody yo pull you back to the pits, you stop at the return road and pull a couple of plugs immediately and throw in old ones where you just pulled the other ones from and drive back to the pits. Yes, with a 100 you can still play with the timing and fuel to maximize its potential. I have done a few cars that ended up needing no timing pulled at all on a 100 shot but i wouldn't have put a 100 shot on it and just rolled out. I made sure I tuned it to find that out. There is a ton more info out there than what I'm posting right now but do your research and you will find all the tuning info you need on here. Dont be afraid to ask questions on here. All the big guys will help you out. Some of them are Camscam, ATVracr, Shiznityz28, Martin@Tick performance, Carter01, and few more I can't think of.
12-01-2012, 01:52 PM
#12
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To see peak timing, i can just put her in 2nd and go wot in that gear while looking at the intune dataloging? is that how you read timing? i saw 34ish degrees normal driving, then when i punched in 2nd all the way close to redline timing was @26. so i'm assumig thats where i'm at?? do i have to repeat a wot run on 3rd gear since thats the 1.0 gear and where these cars get dyno.tuned on?
12-01-2012, 05:15 PM
#15
Here's your answer: I will assume you are running fine on the motor as of right now. Pull 6* from where you are and spray your 100-125 shot.
I have done this on cars on guys who just wanted to spray right now. They are more than likely leaving something on the table by not checking the plugs and taking the time to tune but it is safe enough to get them out there racing on the bottle.
Just for peace of mind, make that pull and pull some plugs and see what they look like. If you don't know what you are looking at just post up some pics and a few of us will help you.
I have done this on cars on guys who just wanted to spray right now. They are more than likely leaving something on the table by not checking the plugs and taking the time to tune but it is safe enough to get them out there racing on the bottle.
Just for peace of mind, make that pull and pull some plugs and see what they look like. If you don't know what you are looking at just post up some pics and a few of us will help you.
12-05-2012, 03:29 PM
#19
To see peak timing, i can just put her in 2nd and go wot in that gear while looking at the intune dataloging? is that how you read timing? i saw 34ish degrees normal driving, then when i punched in 2nd all the way close to redline timing was @26. so i'm assumig thats where i'm at?? do i have to repeat a wot run on 3rd gear since thats the 1.0 gear and where these cars get dynotuned on?
Thanks
12-05-2012, 09:11 PM
#20
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Thanks ^^^
I just swapped from tr6's to br7's and opened her up and she's running rich. Is that normal switching to a colder plug?? i guess i will remove fuel from the intune, she was 11.5 motor and 10.7 wit the 100 shot...(dry for now)
I just swapped from tr6's to br7's and opened her up and she's running rich. Is that normal switching to a colder plug?? i guess i will remove fuel from the intune, she was 11.5 motor and 10.7 wit the 100 shot...(dry for now)
