installing switch for bottle heater...Help!!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
installing switch for bottle heater...Help!! Ok guys, I'll admit...i'm a wiring IDIOT.
I'm building a switchplate for my purge, bottle heater, etc. and replacing my old switches with new ones that match and look cleaner.
Ok, so my old bottle heater switch is a 3 pin switch and this new one is a 6 pin (A local shop installed the nitrous kit so I didn't know the old was a 3 pin). The old one was a simple on off rocker LED switch, the new one is an on-off-on with no LED. The back of the new switch looks like the following:
1 4
2 5
3 6
I called radioshack and they said to put the power and load on 1, 3 and the ground on 2 and leave the other ones clear. That didn't work (tried reversing load and power) so since I know pretty much nothing about wiring I thought I'd consult everyone here.
What do you guys think? I know the system works, checked it before I started.
I'm building a switchplate for my purge, bottle heater, etc. and replacing my old switches with new ones that match and look cleaner.
Ok, so my old bottle heater switch is a 3 pin switch and this new one is a 6 pin (A local shop installed the nitrous kit so I didn't know the old was a 3 pin). The old one was a simple on off rocker LED switch, the new one is an on-off-on with no LED. The back of the new switch looks like the following:
1 4
2 5
3 6
I called radioshack and they said to put the power and load on 1, 3 and the ground on 2 and leave the other ones clear. That didn't work (tried reversing load and power) so since I know pretty much nothing about wiring I thought I'd consult everyone here.
What do you guys think? I know the system works, checked it before I started.
Ok guys, I'll admit...i'm a wiring IDIOT.
I'm building a switchplate for my purge, bottle heater, etc. and replacing my old switches with new ones that match and look cleaner.
Ok, so my old bottle heater switch is a 3 pin switch and this new one is a 6 pin (A local shop installed the nitrous kit so I didn't know the old was a 3 pin). The old one was a simple on off rocker LED switch, the new one is an on-off-on with no LED. The back of the new switch looks like the following:
1 4
2 5
3 6
I called radioshack and they said to put the power and load on 1, 3 and the ground on 2 and leave the other ones clear. That didn't work (tried reversing load and power) so since I know pretty much nothing about wiring I thought I'd consult everyone here.
What do you guys think? I know the system works, checked it before I started.
I'm building a switchplate for my purge, bottle heater, etc. and replacing my old switches with new ones that match and look cleaner.
Ok, so my old bottle heater switch is a 3 pin switch and this new one is a 6 pin (A local shop installed the nitrous kit so I didn't know the old was a 3 pin). The old one was a simple on off rocker LED switch, the new one is an on-off-on with no LED. The back of the new switch looks like the following:
1 4
2 5
3 6
I called radioshack and they said to put the power and load on 1, 3 and the ground on 2 and leave the other ones clear. That didn't work (tried reversing load and power) so since I know pretty much nothing about wiring I thought I'd consult everyone here.
What do you guys think? I know the system works, checked it before I started.
Heater to pin #2 . or 86 pin for the heater power relay to pin #2
12+ switched powet to pin #3 ( off )
If that didn't worked put a picture of the back of the new one .
I don't see people runs heater on that style switches they all use 3 pin on/off led switch . This can be run for electric cutout or bottle opener and something like that .
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Thanks Pontiac! I'll try to give that a shot today.
However...I have another problem. I posted this in the General Maintenance section, but I'll copy and paste this here too.
Its a nice day so I decided to pull my LS1 out of the garage to work on it. I'm installing a new switch, so I disconnected the battery a couple of times while doing some wiring. The car cranked up several times no problem. I turn the car off and go inside for a bit and come back out to go to the store and thats where my problem starts.
I put the key in the ign, push the clutch in and I hear the dinging sound, clock comes on, and the fuel pump primes. however I'm getting no power to my gauge cluster and when I turn the key in all of the way I get nothing. The interesting thing is I hear the fuel pump cut on (which means there is pressure in the lines) but my fuel pressure gauge isn't working. Could this be a clue?
I think i've checked all of the related fuses, what would be the next thing to look into?
Unplugged the battery from the car for a few hours and then hooked it back up. I thought that if it was a VATS issue that might help. I was wrong.
When I was letting the car roll into the garage I turned the key in the on position and it eventually started making a rapid clicking noise and I traced the vibration to the fuel pump relay.
Anyone have ANY suggestions on where to look at next? I noticed that my window was rolling up unusually slow (it usually goes fairly fast for an F-Body), so since my battery had been nearly dead prior to today maybe it didn't have enough juice to even power the gauges. I tried jumping it with a battery pack but that didn't help either. Bad battery? I'm really at a loss.
However...I have another problem. I posted this in the General Maintenance section, but I'll copy and paste this here too.
Its a nice day so I decided to pull my LS1 out of the garage to work on it. I'm installing a new switch, so I disconnected the battery a couple of times while doing some wiring. The car cranked up several times no problem. I turn the car off and go inside for a bit and come back out to go to the store and thats where my problem starts.
I put the key in the ign, push the clutch in and I hear the dinging sound, clock comes on, and the fuel pump primes. however I'm getting no power to my gauge cluster and when I turn the key in all of the way I get nothing. The interesting thing is I hear the fuel pump cut on (which means there is pressure in the lines) but my fuel pressure gauge isn't working. Could this be a clue?
I think i've checked all of the related fuses, what would be the next thing to look into?
Unplugged the battery from the car for a few hours and then hooked it back up. I thought that if it was a VATS issue that might help. I was wrong.
When I was letting the car roll into the garage I turned the key in the on position and it eventually started making a rapid clicking noise and I traced the vibration to the fuel pump relay.
Anyone have ANY suggestions on where to look at next? I noticed that my window was rolling up unusually slow (it usually goes fairly fast for an F-Body), so since my battery had been nearly dead prior to today maybe it didn't have enough juice to even power the gauges. I tried jumping it with a battery pack but that didn't help either. Bad battery? I'm really at a loss.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, CA
Not to say that anything is wrong with your setup, but IMO you should switch out your panel for one from Nitrous outlet.. Everything is so simplified and clean.
But back to the OP, im unsure how a 6 pin would work, I know how it works for an opener. I was going to draw you a diagram of how my opener is wired, but the circuit is different, so I don't want to give you advice and cause a headache for ya..
By the way, im from Raleigh, well Creedmoor/Butner area, but yea. hows the snow?
But back to the OP, im unsure how a 6 pin would work, I know how it works for an opener. I was going to draw you a diagram of how my opener is wired, but the circuit is different, so I don't want to give you advice and cause a headache for ya..
By the way, im from Raleigh, well Creedmoor/Butner area, but yea. hows the snow?
FormerVendor
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
From: Waco, TX
Ok guys, I'll admit...i'm a wiring IDIOT.
I'm building a switchplate for my purge, bottle heater, etc. and replacing my old switches with new ones that match and look cleaner.
Ok, so my old bottle heater switch is a 3 pin switch and this new one is a 6 pin (A local shop installed the nitrous kit so I didn't know the old was a 3 pin). The old one was a simple on off rocker LED switch, the new one is an on-off-on with no LED. The back of the new switch looks like the following:
1 4
2 5
3 6
I called radioshack and they said to put the power and load on 1, 3 and the ground on 2 and leave the other ones clear. That didn't work (tried reversing load and power) so since I know pretty much nothing about wiring I thought I'd consult everyone here.
What do you guys think? I know the system works, checked it before I started.
I'm building a switchplate for my purge, bottle heater, etc. and replacing my old switches with new ones that match and look cleaner.
Ok, so my old bottle heater switch is a 3 pin switch and this new one is a 6 pin (A local shop installed the nitrous kit so I didn't know the old was a 3 pin). The old one was a simple on off rocker LED switch, the new one is an on-off-on with no LED. The back of the new switch looks like the following:
1 4
2 5
3 6
I called radioshack and they said to put the power and load on 1, 3 and the ground on 2 and leave the other ones clear. That didn't work (tried reversing load and power) so since I know pretty much nothing about wiring I thought I'd consult everyone here.
What do you guys think? I know the system works, checked it before I started.
