Quickin

Thats it.

phil46y

A simple explanation: It wires to your tach wire and N2O solenoids and say you set it up to come on at 3000 RPM and off at 5800 RPM. Using a WOT switch if you stomp on the gas at a low RPM the N2O won't kick in until the motor has hit 3000. It works in reverse for the cutout RPM in case you overrev the engine missing a gear, breaking the tires loose etc. I consider it insurance.

Quickin

So, do you always have N2O spraying when it hits 3000 rpm or can it be shut off for regular daily driving? If you had it on for street driving and you slowly reached 3000 rpm, would it just spray when you don't expect it or does it have to be at WOT to activate?

Also, I'm having an ARE 436 installed in 2 weeks, it should have close to 470RWHP/RWTQ N/A, and WOT on the street tires won't work, it will just be to much, right? So, what type of N2O system would something like this motor take? I assume someone would never use N2O with this big of a stroker on the street, right?
Nick said the motor can handle a 250 shot all day long, but I think he means track only with slicks.

Thanks, I'm just trying to learn about N2O right now, I plan on maybe adding a 250 shot in a year or so.

<small>[ August 08, 2002, 01:18 AM: Message edited by: Quickin ]</small>

phil46y

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Quickin:
<strong>So, do you always have N2O spraying when it hits 3000 rpm or can it be shut off for regular daily driving? If you had it on for street driving and you slowly reached 3000 rpm, would it just spray when you don't expect it or does it have to be at WOT to activate?

Also, I'm having an ARE 436 installed in 2 weeks, it should have close to 470RWHP/RWTQ N/A, and WOT on the street tires won't work, it will just be to much, right? So, what type of N2O system would something like this motor take? I assume someone would never use N2O with this big of a stroker on the street, right?

Nick said the motor can handle a 250 shot all day long, but I think he means track only with slicks.

Thanks, I'm just trying to learn about N2O right now, I plan on maybe adding a 250 shot in a year or so.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No it's not always spraying above 3000, it will only spray if I hit the WOT switch by standing on the gas pedal. If I don't fully go to wide open throttle the car drives like it doesn't have the N2O on it.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Some people will run as much HP as they can get on the street <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> . If I were in your shoes, I'd be looking into progressive controllers and or dual stage kits too. Hopefully someone with more knowledge about them than I have will chime in and help out. Sounds like you're building a stout motor!!

<small>[ August 08, 2002, 06:41 AM: Message edited by: phil46y ]</small>

Quickin

Supposedly, according to Nick, it's a bulletproof 436 just waiting for a 250 shot. I think the 470-480 RWHP and probably even more TQ will be enough never to need N20 on the street, but I always like more speed. I would just assume that with my N/A hp/tq, I won't ever be able to hook with any kind of street tire, if I stomp it to the floor, right? So I would think N20 would be a waist on the street. I should be low, low 11's on ET Streets on the street as is. What the heck am I gonna do with a 250 shot?

Someone told me that by the looks of my motor specs my engine is torqe biased, I think they said it's oversquare? Whatever that means.

<small>[ August 08, 2002, 07:34 PM: Message edited by: Quickin ]</small>