Alright, if you didnt read my previous thread, to make a long story short I was having problems with the nitrous engaging and surging. Well, the nitrous and fuel lines were crossed on one of the noids, I was basically dumping an *** load of fuel into the motor. Now I am onto a new problem.

The wiring has been checked, rechecked, and checked again. Everything is checking out good. Window switch is checking out good, both noids are spraying like normal. Etc...Basically EVERYTHING is checking out good. Now when I go to spray, the nitrous will kick in 1st gear, but as soon as I hit second the car bogs and then runs normally on motor. So, I try it from a second gear roll.....no dice, bogs and then runs normally on motor..

So, basically the nitrous will spray in 1st gear only, and everything electrical is checking out. WTF am I missing here? This makes no ******* sense!!!!!!

josh

EDIT: One more thing, we bypassed the window switch to see if that was the problem. It was NOT the problem on either occasion.

<small>[ August 03, 2002, 01:18 AM: Message edited by: Damian ]</small>

 

My buddy had the same problen with his, it was the window switch.

 

possibly the fuel pressure safety switch?>

 

Damian...definately check the FPSS if its installed...just bypass it for troubleshooting. NExt...double check your grounds for the relays and the solenoids. Dont just grab them...take them offf...clean the surface some more with sand paper, wipe down with alcohol...and reinstall. Im assuming your ABSOLUTELY certain your bottle is full? And its oriented in the correct position?

After that...I would hook up test lights to the solenoids individually that way you will be able to see from the cockpit that the noids are/are not getting power when it dies...tape them to your window or something temporarily. You just want to verify they are getting power. Once verified, and still having problems...I would verify each noid has flow output buy pulling off the output lines and activating them. You may have to intall a restriction in the fuel lines or you will releive too much flow/pressure with open lines flowing. Or take off the TNT ring and set that in something to catch the fuel. You get the idea...youll basically have to rig something up to simulate the nozzle . The nitrous line may be tie wrapped to something so it doesnt flail around. Do the flow test with the car idleing so you will have fuel pressure. Activate the switch manually (obviuosly you cant floor the car in nuetral by pressing the gas pedal for that lenght of time). Make sure the nitrous line wont shoot into the intake or the motor will rev. Once you manually activate the WOT switch...hold it there for about ten seconds...watch for good steady nitrous flow and fuel flow. You may want to have someone help monitor and probably want a fire extinguisher handy.

Theres not much else to check. Maybe the WOT switch itself...make sure its not slipping off the edge of whatever you have it hitting after a few seconds.

Basically try to seperate it from an electrical problem from a flow problem. From your description it definalet sounds electrical. And whatever it is is sounds as if it is affecting both noids equally..which would lead me to believe its at the relay or before. Relay, fpss, wot switch, window switch, grounds etc.

Oh yeah...one more thing. Plugs gapped too loose can do some funky stuff. Make sure they are gapped tight enough. For TS purposes I would go with .034.

<small>[ August 03, 2002, 09:14 AM: Message edited by: 383LQ4SS ]</small>

 

Sorry guys, I should have said this from the beginnning. I do not have a fuel pressure safety switch. So, that couldn't be the problem <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">NExt...double check your grounds for the relays and the solenoids. Dont just grab them...take them offf...clean the surface some more with sand paper, wipe down with alcohol...and reinstall. Im assuming your ABSOLUTELY certain your bottle is full? And its oriented in the correct position?</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well we did recheck all connections. We also pulled the power ring off the car, and engaged both solenoids to make sure they were working. Both spray fine, so I am assuming all connections are good? Also, the bottle is completely full, 1100 psi. However it's just laying down in the spare tire well right now, not really sitting vertical...

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">After that...I would hook up test lights to the solenoids individually that way you will be able to see from the cockpit that the noids are/are not getting power when it dies...tape them to your window or something temporarily. You just want to verify they are getting power. Once verified, and still having problems...I would verify each noid has flow output buy pulling off the output lines and activating them. You may have to intall a restriction in the fuel lines or you will releive too much flow/pressure with open lines flowing. Or take off the TNT ring and set that in something to catch the fuel. You get the idea...youll basically have to rig something up to simulate the nozzle . The nitrous line may be tie wrapped to something so it doesnt flail around. Do the flow test with the car idleing so you will have fuel pressure. Activate the switch manually (obviuosly you cant floor the car in nuetral by pressing the gas pedal for that lenght of time). Make sure the nitrous line wont shoot into the intake or the motor will rev. Once you manually activate the WOT switch...hold it there for about ten seconds...watch for good steady nitrous flow and fuel flow. You may want to have someone help monitor and probably want a fire extinguisher handy.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">We did just about everything you said here. Bypassed everything, etc..It's ALL checking out good....

I have TR6 plugs gapped at .045 right now. I originally gapped them at .035 and the car skipped at lower rpm's...

Josh

 

I've seen WOT switches get messed up. Try tie wrapping the switch closed for a few test runs to eliminate it as a variable. This problem kicked my *** a few months ago.

 

Stand the bottle up with the line and fitting pointing down. The tube inside has an angle on the end of it and with the bottle laying down, youll pull the liquid N2O untill you have momentum (1st gear shot) and then probably pulling the air from the bottle.

Stand it up and see what happens.

 

You need FUEL. Sounds like your pump can't keep up.