Lets hear about your Nitrous setup
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
From: SC
Lets hear about your Nitrous setup What the post says, plus some details:
1. How large a shot, and what manufacturer, plus who installed.
2. What other accessories do you have (bottle warmer, purge, remote opener, rpm/window switch, etc..)?
3. Did you upgrade your fuel pump, and or injectors? If so what are you using?
4. How much track improvement, and how consistant?
1. How large a shot, and what manufacturer, plus who installed.
2. What other accessories do you have (bottle warmer, purge, remote opener, rpm/window switch, etc..)?
3. Did you upgrade your fuel pump, and or injectors? If so what are you using?
4. How much track improvement, and how consistant?
Re: Lets hear about your Nitrous setup Its an ARE iron block 383 all forged setup. The 623 rwhp was on a 200 shot although I have run a 325 a few times. Clutch was a last ditch experiment after I toasted a SPEC and then a Cartek back to back. I used a new carbon stage III disc from SPEC with the heavy duty PP from the Cartek setup and Bam! Been working for a year. I just recently removed and inspected the disc and its not even close to half life. Maybe 30% gone. Zero chatter. I will put it back in as is once the upgrades are done to the engine next week.
The Nitrous setup is a kit 5177 with a cheater noid inplace of the powershots and 42 lb injectors. This is good for about 650 to the wheels. The 325 shot was from 200 dry and 125 wet kit...also Nos brand. I just made it up with some spare parts.
To keep pressure in the bottle spraying large shots I use nitrogen push system. A ten lb bottle with 2500 psi of nitrogen with a regulator to bring pressure down to where i set it. No heaters. It will replace the nitrous used during the run almost instantly and maintian pressure during runs...no pressure drop.
Switch panel has some small rocker switches that are from aircraft. Not toggles but small high quality ones. Each stage is armed seperately. When stage one is armed an indicator lights up saying "ready" in green. Stage II is armed and amber indicator lights up saying "AIM". When the WOT switch is made and nitrous is flowing a red indicator lights up and says "FIRE". So with both stages armed and spraying the control panel says READY AIM FIRE!
To retard timing a bit I have a potentiometer hooked inline to my IAT sensor plug. The **** is placed right next to my LS1 scanmaster. I scroll the display on the scanmaster till it reads IAT and turn the Potentiometer **** until the temp reads 160 degrees or so. This will retard timing approx 3 degrees. When not running nitrous I either set the IAT to ambient temps or to get full advance I will set the temp to 32 degrees F for max timing as long as there is no pinging.
This is strictly a street car. I drive it atleast 3-4 days a week and take it on trips as well. When I go to the track to run the only changes are bolting on some ET streets on salad shooter rims. Always drive it there and always drive it back. Full stereo with a couple of very large amps, component speakers and three ten inch subs.
The entire setup is being changed currently to something a little more elaborate.
Heres a vid of the ride at the track...15.3 megs
Car vid click here
Right click and save target as to download.
__________________
The Nitrous setup is a kit 5177 with a cheater noid inplace of the powershots and 42 lb injectors. This is good for about 650 to the wheels. The 325 shot was from 200 dry and 125 wet kit...also Nos brand. I just made it up with some spare parts.
To keep pressure in the bottle spraying large shots I use nitrogen push system. A ten lb bottle with 2500 psi of nitrogen with a regulator to bring pressure down to where i set it. No heaters. It will replace the nitrous used during the run almost instantly and maintian pressure during runs...no pressure drop.
Switch panel has some small rocker switches that are from aircraft. Not toggles but small high quality ones. Each stage is armed seperately. When stage one is armed an indicator lights up saying "ready" in green. Stage II is armed and amber indicator lights up saying "AIM". When the WOT switch is made and nitrous is flowing a red indicator lights up and says "FIRE". So with both stages armed and spraying the control panel says READY AIM FIRE!
To retard timing a bit I have a potentiometer hooked inline to my IAT sensor plug. The **** is placed right next to my LS1 scanmaster. I scroll the display on the scanmaster till it reads IAT and turn the Potentiometer **** until the temp reads 160 degrees or so. This will retard timing approx 3 degrees. When not running nitrous I either set the IAT to ambient temps or to get full advance I will set the temp to 32 degrees F for max timing as long as there is no pinging.
This is strictly a street car. I drive it atleast 3-4 days a week and take it on trips as well. When I go to the track to run the only changes are bolting on some ET streets on salad shooter rims. Always drive it there and always drive it back. Full stereo with a couple of very large amps, component speakers and three ten inch subs.
The entire setup is being changed currently to something a little more elaborate.
Heres a vid of the ride at the track...15.3 megs
Car vid click here
Right click and save target as to download.
__________________
Re: Lets hear about your Nitrous setup 1) 300hp, TNT DP Fogger, S&S Motorsports.
2) Duel Bottles, heaters, blown down tubes, remote openers, unfilter N2O pressure gauge, filtered N2O pressure, Pro purge, WOT switch, fuel safty shutoff switch, built 383 Stroker.
3) Magna Flow 300 - Secondary fogger fuel system at 18 psi and 300 gph. Stock 28lb Injectors.
4) NA 12.4 @ 5800', NOS 10.04 @ 5800"
2) Duel Bottles, heaters, blown down tubes, remote openers, unfilter N2O pressure gauge, filtered N2O pressure, Pro purge, WOT switch, fuel safty shutoff switch, built 383 Stroker.
3) Magna Flow 300 - Secondary fogger fuel system at 18 psi and 300 gph. Stock 28lb Injectors.
4) NA 12.4 @ 5800', NOS 10.04 @ 5800"
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
From: SC
Re: Lets hear about your Nitrous setup These are very impressive setups...this is some good reading. Feel free to post about your setup if it is not as radical as the above ones as well, we want to hear about em!
Red200235thAnniversary -- is that on a heads and cam , stroker or what else is done to the engine? What kind of times are you running?
383LQ4SS -- Nice video, glad I was at work to download it off the T3. Like the exhaust...very sweet.
Looks like getting a forged 383 stroker type setup is a good way to go..those are some kick *** times!
Red200235thAnniversary -- is that on a heads and cam , stroker or what else is done to the engine? What kind of times are you running?
383LQ4SS -- Nice video, glad I was at work to download it off the T3. Like the exhaust...very sweet.
Looks like getting a forged 383 stroker type setup is a good way to go..those are some kick *** times!
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: Rio Grande, TX
Re: Lets hear about your Nitrous setup Nope stock heads and cam. When I first bought my car all I Had was lid, filer, flowmaster, HPP3 exhaust, cutout. I went a 12.7 N/A. With 150 shot I went an 11.1 hitting right off the line, stalled at 1500 with E.T. Streets. I never ran it again at the track b/c they told me my time was to fast and I need a roll cage. I always use the 150 shot on the street though. Recently Ive been using 75 shot jets at track with my new Macs, and 3:73's and have been hitting 11.60's with bad elevation and in the Texas Heat.
Trending Topics
Re: Lets hear about your Nitrous setup 1. NOS Cheater solenoids, Nitrous Works nozzle, 125hp jets, i installed
2. no accesories
3. stock fuel system
4. dropped 2 seconds, from 15.5 to 13.5 in 2000 GMC Sierra with 5.3, only mods, flowmaster exhaust and hpp3 programer, stock tires, couldnt spray till second gear and had to let off the button to get it to shift to drive
2. no accesories
3. stock fuel system
4. dropped 2 seconds, from 15.5 to 13.5 in 2000 GMC Sierra with 5.3, only mods, flowmaster exhaust and hpp3 programer, stock tires, couldnt spray till second gear and had to let off the button to get it to shift to drive