Krazy98Z28

iTrader: (12)

I was told that the stock fuel system was good for 450RWHP. if you were to do a wet kit you would only need to upgrade the fuel pump. If you did a dry kit I was told then you would need bigger injectors and a fuel pump. Hope this helps.

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Krazy98TA:
<strong>I was told that the stock fuel system was good for 450RWHP.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, but you can not use the stock or an upgraded pump to supply fuel for a Fogger. A Fogger needs fuel pressure at about 15 to 19 psi. A stock fuel pump is at 58 psi, which is way too much pressure. This is why a secondary fuel system is needed with a Fogger and a wet/dry can use a stock/modified fuel pump.

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ls1290:
<strong>Yes and no. A DP Fogger requires a secondary fuel setup, so your existing fuel system can remain stock. With my Fogger, I am using the MagnaFlow Star 300 and it works great. With my Fogger, TNT does not recommend a shot smaller than 200hp. If you are only going to run a 100-150hp shot, why use a Fogger?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would love to do a 200 shot, but do you really think my stock bottom end would last with almost 650rwhp and about 750rwtq? Doubt it. Tranny wouldn't like it either.

Also, the big reverse split cam I have does create a decent amount of cylinder pressure, and I don't think it would like too much nitrous.

Lastly, my reasoning for going direct port is engine safety. More even distribution.

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ls1290:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Krazy98TA:
<strong>I was told that the stock fuel system was good for 450RWHP.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, but you can not use the stock or an upgraded pump to supply fuel for a Fogger. A Fogger needs fuel pressure at about 15 to 19 psi. A stock fuel pump is at 58 psi, which is way too much pressure. This is why a secondary fuel system is needed with a Fogger and a wet/dry can use a stock/modified fuel pump.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">NX told me if I want to run a 150 shot DP, then I'd use the smallest jets, but then reduce the fuel pressure to 10psi.

Magnus357

So basicly the answer to your question is yes you can run it on a stock system. The fuel provided for the N2O system wont be taxing on either your injectors or your fuel pump, so if you can power your engine NA then you can go with the fogger, but that still a LOT of cost for a 150 shot.

If I where you I'd get a TNT F2 or NX MAF and then get a bottle warmer, Ramchargers Timing computer, fuel pump, and possibly a progressive controler. Just as if not MORE safe than a direct port kit with out the computer aids, a MUCH simpler set up, and you could STILL probably get out cheaper than with a DP kit.

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

slow

iTrader: (7)

question... why cant you use a high pressure fuel system for the foggers?

Ryan.

verbs

OK, so fuel wise the car can handle it, so the next question is can the bottom end take it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

I dunno, 150shot would equal almost 600rwhp/675rwtq or so....tough call.....

I doubt it would last very long <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" />

Magnus357

I bet if you got into the bottom on the engine and replaced the rod bolts with some ARP units, used a progressive controller so that the brunt of the N2O came on at 4.5k+, and reduced the timing at lower RPMs you could run a 200 shot all day long. Especially if you rigged it to pull from a seperate fuel cell with like 104 octane in it.

But talking about seperate fuel tanks, Direct Port systems, new fuel systems, N2O electronics we're talking about a LOT of money. Might wanna just start saving for the bored bottem end with a solid roller.

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

Magnus357

verbs,

You got me kinda interested in this so I went out and made a parts list:

TNT F2 Kit used in good condition - $450

NX bottle warmer - $200

Ramchargers Timing Controller - $250

Jacob's Nitrous Mastermind - $225

Racetronix fuel pump - $300

or if you wanted I bet you could rig a seperate cell with an inline pump for that much or cheaper.

So a total around $1500 for a STOUT N20 system. This is about the cost or cheaper of any decent DP system after you get your manifold tapped for the jets and get the seperate fuel system.

Also figure in some ARP rod bolts, which I think are around ~$100 and you MIGHT be able to put them in by taking out the oil pan.

I bet with this system and some tuning a 200 shot is not out of the question, and on forged pistons you could go 300+

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

I woul dnot trust stock connecting rods with any over a 150hp shot. A broken rod or piston through the block is not a pretty thing <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Magnus357:
<strong>verbs,

You got me kinda interested in this so I went out and made a parts list:

TNT F2 Kit used in good condition - $450

NX bottle warmer - $200

Ramchargers Timing Controller - $250

Jacob's Nitrous Mastermind - $225

Racetronix fuel pump - $300

or if you wanted I bet you could rig a seperate cell with an inline pump for that much or cheaper.

So a total around $1500 for a STOUT N20 system. This is about the cost or cheaper of any decent DP system after you get your manifold tapped for the jets and get the seperate fuel system.

Also figure in some ARP rod bolts, which I think are around ~$100 and you MIGHT be able to put them in by taking out the oil pan.

I bet with this system and some tuning a 200 shot is not out of the question, and on forged pistons you could go 300+

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">One of the reasons I was considering the direct port is because I can get it as cheap as what retail goes for a normal F2 wet kit.

Also, I thought the 2001+ model years (my year) had upgraded rod bolts of some sort. If I have to tap into the engine, even for rod bolts, I'm not going to bother with the whole project. I would definately consider a progressive controller, no question about that one.

I'll have to look into getting the aformentioned products you listed. Thanks for the advice....

Moose

iTrader: (5)

So basically to sum this up for the Nitrious Novice..

Will the bottom end last?

I have basically the same set up as Verbs, and have been considering spraying the car.. But I do not want to make one pass and lose the motor.

I was going to do a Inline pump and a 100-150 shot.. The direct port system looks very nice, but kind a high price.

basically I'm big novice when it comes to NOS and trying to figure out if I want to do this or not.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Magnus357

Well damn. . if you can get a DP set up for retail on a wet kit then yeah. But why not grab at LEAST the timing controller. You can always play on the safe side by taking out timing at first and adding back mor e as you get brave.

I think the Ramchargers unit also has some Nitrous timing capibilities which is good for helpping you maintain traction with out gettin 30" and a 5.13 gear with a spool.

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

Ron@Vengeance

iTrader: (51)

Im not all that famaliar with DP kits, I know about them, just not in-depth. I do however run a TNT F1 kit on my car(100shot) on top of my heads cam. I run 11.6:1 compression on pump gas. On the juice I use 100 super unleaded. No timing trickers or anything of the sort and I havent had a problem yet. I havent felt the need to step up to the 150 pills as I have met my goal of 10s on the 100 kick. I do run a Walbro 340 intank and an MSD window switch set at 3600 and 6600. I think a DP kit is overkill for what you are trying to accomplish. Any 10 second bottom end LS1 is a fast **** in my eyes, and you can accomplish that with a simple bolt on TNT( or NX maf).Hope I helped a lil.

verbs

My buddy is trying to convince me that I can safely run a 100-150 shot with a NX direct port system, and do so on stock fuel!

I'm kinda weary about this.....I already put 440rwhp down, and although I have the bigger 28.6 lb injectors and better fuel system with the 2001+ cars, I'm still not comfortable adding a 150 direct port shot onto my heads/cam car. Especially on stock fuel and 10.8:1 compression.

What are all of your thoughts?

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

Yes and no. A DP Fogger requires a secondary fuel setup, so your existing fuel system can remain stock. With my Fogger, I am using the MagnaFlow Star 300 and it works great. With my Fogger, TNT does not recommend a shot smaller than 200hp. If you are only going to run a 100-150hp shot, why use a Fogger?

Scott

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Moose:
<strong>So basically to sum this up for the Nitrious Novice..

Will the bottom end last?

I have basically the same set up as Verbs, and have been considering spraying the car.. But I do not want to make one pass and lose the motor.

I was going to do a Inline pump and a 100-150 shot.. The direct port system looks very nice, but kind a high price.

basically I'm big novice when it comes to NOS and trying to figure out if I want to do this or not.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I wouldn't Moose... Ya never know what will happen w/nitrous, I mean look at Evil and Chuck... they both hurt their motors on less than a 150 shot.

EVIL

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Scott:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Moose:
<strong>So basically to sum this up for the Nitrious Novice..

Will the bottom end last?

I have basically the same set up as Verbs, and have been considering spraying the car.. But I do not want to make one pass and lose the motor.

I was going to do a Inline pump and a 100-150 shot.. The direct port system looks very nice, but kind a high price.

basically I'm big novice when it comes to NOS and trying to figure out if I want to do this or not.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I wouldn't Moose... Ya never know what will happen w/nitrous, I mean look at Evil and Chuck... they both hurt their motors on less than a 150 shot.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">mine wasnt so much the shot size.