How do you know when you adjust the FPSS to close at a certain psi?

 

Really the best way is to use regulated shop air and a claibrated gauge. Hook it up to the fpss and use a multi meter set to read Ohms so youl know when the switch closes. Dial up the pressure you want and adjust the switch to that pressure. But check it again by lowereing and raising the pressure to see activation points. It may activate at a different decreasing pressure than rising pressure. Your looking for the point the switch wants to open on decreasing pressure. Really thats the only accurate way to do it. There are other simplified versions that will get you in a good enough ballpark...such as use a multimeter or test light and adjust it on the car with the motor running. Find out where it wants to open/close and then go a full turn above that.

Im sure others have easy methods as well. Lets hear em! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Like the man said, Lets Hear Em!

 

Thanks!! I will do that... <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" />

 

First, remove the small plug from the back of the switch. Next, throw it and the switch in the trash and monitor the O2's using an A/F gauge...Just my opinion, I tried using calibrated equipment to set my switch and later found that it turned on and off with engine vibration. To sum it up its a POS.

 

The switch that comes with the NX kits seems to be pretty reliable. Most of the complaints on the switches have been with the ones from the NOS kits.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by cantdrv65:
<strong>First, remove the small plug from the back of the switch. Next, throw it and the switch in the trash and monitor the O2's using an A/F gauge...Just my opinion, I tried using calibrated equipment to set my switch and later found that it turned on and off with engine vibration. To sum it up its a POS.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Bwahahaha. Thats funny.
Anyways...the switches are not high quality thats for sure. Although Ive had no problems with both NOS units Ive dealt with. One other thing...dont set it right at the edge of fuel pressure. I set mine about 15 psi down from normal operating pressure to keep it from affecting the system from the switch being so finicky. As Cantdrv65 said...I normaly use 02s and a fp gauge to monitor fuel. The switch is still there for a major fule pressure failure that I may not catch quickly.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by cantdrv65:
<strong>First, remove the small plug from the back of the switch. Next, throw it and the switch in the trash and monitor the O2's using an A/F gauge...Just my opinion, I tried using calibrated equipment to set my switch and later found that it turned on and off with engine vibration. To sum it up its a POS.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">lol...I have the tripod (n20,A/F,Fuel Prs guages), FPSS, window switch...I just want to be safe....