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20 deg timing with 175 shot...

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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 08:36 PM
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Default 20 deg timing with 175 shot...

i have afr 205 heads and a small cam, racetronix pump and upgraded wire, ive been running 20 degress on a wet 175 shot (12.5afrs) but want to go to a 200. Can i still use 93 octane? how about timing, should i pull at least one degree out? i'm using a Nitrous outlet 90mm wet plate. thanks for any input
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:07 PM
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car made 400rwhp on 26deg n/a, a4 if it matters...
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:11 PM
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I have 150 shot whit 28 degrees, tr224 cam and 243 heads milled .020. 0 knock
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by momoturbo
I have 150 shot whit 28 degrees, tr224 cam and 243 heads milled .020. 0 knock
wow, thats a lot of timing. i think the best approach is less timing with leaner afr's with the right heat range plug.. That's what the been there done that guys reccomend...but thanks for your reply.
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by momoturbo
I have 150 shot whit 28 degrees, tr224 cam and 243 heads milled .020. 0 knock
Man, that seem's like way too much timimg.
What are you running for plugs? BR12EF's or something?
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 11:46 PM
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You should Pull 2 Degrees of timing for every 50 H.P. Shot of N20. Im spraying a 100 shot of N20. Im pulling 5 degrees of timing & running NGK BR7EF. No Knock. Next week im installing a wideband air / fuel ratio gage to monitor my A/F Ratio. I mix VP 100 octane with useless Calif. 91 octane premium unleaded. Im using the Lingenfelter LNC 2000 Timing Computer to pull timing when i arm my nitrous switch. Works awesome.

Last edited by NOS LS1; Aug 30, 2013 at 11:51 PM. Reason: i
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 09:42 AM
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i run 23 degrees with a 200 shot on a 5.3.. you should be good with the 20 degrees but each setup is different you need to read the plugs to properly determine safe max timing.
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 09:48 AM
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o yeah and 93 pump gas
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 04:03 PM
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I would put 17-18 degrees in it and a BR8ef plug gapped @.028 .
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by white2kbird
i have afr 205 heads and a small cam, racetronix pump and upgraded wire, ive been running 20 degress on a wet 175 shot (12.5afrs) but want to go to a 200. Can i still use 93 octane? how about timing, should i pull at least one degree out? i'm using a Nitrous outlet 90mm wet
plate. thanks for any input

What's fuel pump or dedicated do u have?
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by dnkynrbk
What's fuel pump or dedicated do u have?
its a Racetronix fuel pump with the hotwire upgrade, rated to 6-650rwhp
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by NOS LS1
You should Pull 2 Degrees of timing for every 50 H.P. Shot of N20. Im spraying a 100 shot of N20. Im pulling 5 degrees of timing & running NGK BR7EF. No Knock. Next week im installing a wideband air / fuel ratio gage to monitor my A/F Ratio. I mix VP 100 octane with useless Calif. 91 octane premium unleaded. Im using the Lingenfelter LNC 2000 Timing Computer to pull timing when i arm my nitrous switch. Works awesome.
I'm tired of reading this. Where it may be a good "starting" point, every car is different and there is no set in stone value for anything. We run a 12:1 346 on 23* and a .78N Jet and NGK-9 non projected plugs. 93 pump and C16 in a stand alone... No knock, and plugs look perfect.



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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 06:02 PM
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205 shot 21* pump 93 and br7ef are my setup
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 07:45 AM
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Going to take baby steps, going from a .074 to a .076 is there any changes i have to make to the fuel? i was running the .074 for a few months with no issues 20 deg timing and 12.6 afr's.. its only about a 10rwhp difference but its not a small shot anymore like the 125 was... thanks
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 09:08 AM
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Whats with the "NO KNOCK" stuff?

Is that how you guys are determing wether or not the tune up is correct?
LMAO !!!

Just FYI if it does see knock its to late and no amount of timing pulled will stop it from knocking once it starts (only lifting off the gas will do that).

If you dont know how to read plugs post pics up here there are lots of guys here that will guide you and you will learn along the way.

JMO.


We got just about everyone away from TR6's now lets get this knock sensor thing fixed. LOL !!
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
Whats with the "NO KNOCK" stuff?

Is that how you guys are determing wether or not the tune up is correct?
LMAO !!!

Just FYI if it does see knock its to late and no amount of timing pulled will stop it from knocking once it starts (only lifting off the gas will do that).

If you dont know how to read plugs post pics up here there are lots of guys here that will guide you and you will learn along the way.

JMO.


We got just about everyone away from TR6's now lets get this knock sensor thing fixed. LOL !!
Agree
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
Whats with the "NO KNOCK" stuff?
I was about to ask the same thing!
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr

We got just about everyone away from TR6's now lets get this knock sensor thing fixed. LOL !!
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 11:24 AM
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I have to agree that Knock sensor are a good safety feature, but they only help A) if you catch it in time and and lift B) are more for an oh **** my tune up wasn't right. But by that point, damage could already have been done.

They are just another tool in the box like a wideband.

Put fresh plugs in, make a pass and shut the motor off right as you lift. Pull ALL your plugs the first few times. Find the hottest hole(s) and pull those 1-2 plugs regularly. Why regularly? Things happen to tune ups. Different days a good tune up can be off. God forbid a little dirt finds its way in to a fuel/n20 jet. It takes 5 minutes to do and might be worth your time/money/energy if something does go wrong.

We spend all this time and money to go fast, it sucks when we burn things up because we are just too lazy.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by LIL SS
I have to agree that Knock sensor are a good safety feature, but they only help A) if you catch it in time and and lift B) are more for an oh **** my tune up wasn't right. But by that point, damage could already have been done.

They are just another tool in the box like a wideband.

I disagree.
I think they give guys a false sense of security, they think "it didnt pick up any knock, it must be good"

No Knock sensor ever saved anyones motor.
They are useless IMO and we dont now and never have used them to tell us anything about our tune up.


We use spark plugs to verifiy what the wideband tells us.
Wideband is VERY useful.
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