Detonation on TNT 100 Shot-Help
I posted this on the other board but i figure i'll post it here too in case some of you dont hang out there:
Hey guys, I need some help and opinions here from the N20 gurus. I dyno'd my car today on a TNT 100 Shot(wet). It made plenty of power,(120 rwhp)but for the 1st second when the N20 came on it would detonate. Now, I can not hear it at all when i am on the street. I only heard it on the dyno, but there was no mistaking it. At this point, i dont know if the conditions that caused the detonation came from the dyno process itself, or if it is happening on the street also and I just cant hear it over my pro 5.0 and all the road noise.
I am running autolite 104's gapped at .050. I have taken no timing out and am on 91 octane Shell gas. Car is a 99 M6 with mods shown in sig. Window switch comes on at 3K and off at 5.9K.Do you think I'd hear it if I was detonating on the street? Any suggestions?
Here's the dyno sheet:
http://www.area16.com/ApexN20.jpg
<small>[ March 16, 2003, 06:11 PM: Message edited by: Threesixes ]</small>
Hey guys, I need some help and opinions here from the N20 gurus. I dyno'd my car today on a TNT 100 Shot(wet). It made plenty of power,(120 rwhp)but for the 1st second when the N20 came on it would detonate. Now, I can not hear it at all when i am on the street. I only heard it on the dyno, but there was no mistaking it. At this point, i dont know if the conditions that caused the detonation came from the dyno process itself, or if it is happening on the street also and I just cant hear it over my pro 5.0 and all the road noise.
I am running autolite 104's gapped at .050. I have taken no timing out and am on 91 octane Shell gas. Car is a 99 M6 with mods shown in sig. Window switch comes on at 3K and off at 5.9K.Do you think I'd hear it if I was detonating on the street? Any suggestions?
Here's the dyno sheet:
http://www.area16.com/ApexN20.jpg
<small>[ March 16, 2003, 06:11 PM: Message edited by: Threesixes ]</small>
I think you need to close that gap some and mix in some race gas if 91 is the best you could get. I would expect it to detonate with the conditions you mentioned.
i gapped my TR-6 at 40 and no KR on my 100shot TNT wet....try lowering the gap
BTW im on 91 oct chevron(with techron <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> )
good luck
BTW im on 91 oct chevron(with techron <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> )
good luck
fuel filter been changed lately?
Im not sure exactly where it was pinging/knocking, you could try to take a couple of extra degrees out of that area. I guess the equation for spray is 2 degrees for every 50hp.
Im running stock fuel with a NX 125 shot and have only heard a ping once in the midrange 4000-4500. Tried it again and logged it, I was at about a 0.5 KR count. NOt too much.
Sometimes they just get cranky. I would try the NGK tr6's at .038-.040 as someone else mentioned as well. I have mine at .039
Im not sure exactly where it was pinging/knocking, you could try to take a couple of extra degrees out of that area. I guess the equation for spray is 2 degrees for every 50hp.
Im running stock fuel with a NX 125 shot and have only heard a ping once in the midrange 4000-4500. Tried it again and logged it, I was at about a 0.5 KR count. NOt too much.
Sometimes they just get cranky. I would try the NGK tr6's at .038-.040 as someone else mentioned as well. I have mine at .039
My TR6's are gapped at .039 too. 93 octane on a 100 shot wet NX kit and no pinging. Like it was stated above, try reducing your plug gap first and try to get a higher octane fuel. That's a good place to start.
Thanks for your suggestions. I really appreciate them.I just changed the fuel filter the same day I put the kit in. I'm gonna take the plug gap down and put in the tr-6. I wanted them, but none of the parts stores in my area had them the day I changed plugs. If that doesnt take care of it I'll mix in some race gas, and if that doesnt help I guess I'll try that timing tuner.
Like I said before, I dont notice the pinging at all on the street. I only heard it on the dyno. Do you think it is happening on the street and I just dont hear it? If I never would have had it dyno'd I'd have never even known.
As far as the detonation goes, I have acess to a snap-on scanner that will monitor knock retard. If I take my car for some test runs, and the knock retard is OK,and like I said I dont hear anything, then would you say I am safe? What #'s of retard are OK, and what would indicate detonation?
My only experience with N20 is a dry kit I had on my 96 mustang and it never had any problems, so I am definitely a N20 novice here. Thanks for taking the time to point me in the right direction.
Josh
<small>[ March 16, 2003, 06:35 PM: Message edited by: Threesixes ]</small>
Like I said before, I dont notice the pinging at all on the street. I only heard it on the dyno. Do you think it is happening on the street and I just dont hear it? If I never would have had it dyno'd I'd have never even known.
As far as the detonation goes, I have acess to a snap-on scanner that will monitor knock retard. If I take my car for some test runs, and the knock retard is OK,and like I said I dont hear anything, then would you say I am safe? What #'s of retard are OK, and what would indicate detonation?
My only experience with N20 is a dry kit I had on my 96 mustang and it never had any problems, so I am definitely a N20 novice here. Thanks for taking the time to point me in the right direction.
Josh
<small>[ March 16, 2003, 06:35 PM: Message edited by: Threesixes ]</small>
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I havent yet figured out what kinda knock is audible and how it corresponds to a KR #. Im new to ls1edit and just learning, but I would think anything over 4 would be pushing it.


