koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

I have lid, 180 thermostat, catback, predator tune, nitto DR and free mods,on a 2002 A4 W/2.73 gears w/ 4000 miles I dyno'd at 321 rwhp and 341 rwtq. I want to use a 2 stage dry setup using a modified NOS 5177 kit. The first stage will run off the WOT switch. Im thinking a 35 to 50 shot. Im afraid to spray more on the first stage with the stock torque converter the spray will hit under 2000 rpm. The second stage will be a 75 shot run on a window switch set at 3000 and 6000. I want the spray at the low RPM to help my 60' the car is a dog on the bottom w/ the 2.73 gears I know i need a stall torque converter but wanted the nitrous first and was hoping the low rpm sray would help. Please help me out <img border="0" alt="[worship]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> this is my first nitrous install.

Nickn20

boom <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> keep it at 35 if you are gonna do it, and watch your timing.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

Be careful...but you should be able to find out what it could take. Theoretically a 50 shot at 2000 should yeild the same cylinder fill rate as a 100 shot at 4000. I would do as stated above and start with a 35, but do it on a dyno. Monitor your Tq levels and use Atap to check for detonation. Go up slowly. Also..just for ***** and grins..id do some atap runs flooring the car at low RPM and see what kind of timing the computer spits out at 2000 rpms. And retarding timing appropriately while taking into consideration that a small shot at that RPM is like a big shot at higher rpms. So the general rule of 2 degrees per 50 hp may need to be increased on the intitial shot depending on how big you go and how low in rpm and what timing the computer will want to give at that rpm.
But using Atap and dyno...you should be able to figure out a safe level for a given rpm.

But I could be all wrong and your margin for error decreases in the lower rpm. Why not just get a slightly higher stall?

koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

Finished my nitrous install last night. I got the monster 15# bottle in the spare tire compartment using brackets I fabricated that go from the antenna bracket across to the other side of the well. I even had room for the bottle opener. The system is a dry 2 stage the first stage a 35 shot comes on with the WOT switch. The second stage a 87 shot uses a window switch on set at 3200 and off at 5900. I wired the system and left room in my control center for a bottle heater but haven&amp;#8217;t installed one yet. Consequently the system will be hitting a lot softer than advertised. Ill find out how much less on the dyno this week hopefully Monday. Will wait till im on the dyno to put the juice to the car, I have test fired the noids. I installed my TR6 plugs set the gap at .044 last night