Hi guys, thanks for all of the knowledge y'all provide on here! I've always wanted to spray and this section has already provided tons of useful information that I've used on my car: spark plug choice, safety features and the big one, dry v wet. Now that I'm on the home stretch on the installation, I have a few questions before I spray for the first time

First, the car is an 02 Z28 M6 at 460WHP/450WTQ and my set up is a Nitrous Outlet dry kit (halo) with a NOS WOT/RPM switch, a nitrous filter, a purge and I'm swapping out the TR6s for BR7s at .035" this afternoon. I plan on starting at 75hp to start with and getting to 150 once I'm comfortable.

For fuel, I have LS2 style 52# injectors and stock lines with a Racetronix pump and hotwire kit. I have another Racetronix pump that I will be installing in a dual pump setup using Mighty Mouse's guide. Should I trigger the second pump on nitrous arming, nitrous activation or on a manual switch independent? I'm leaning towards nitrous arming, since I don't want to forget to start the pump (manual switch) and I wonder if I may get pressure spikes with gear changes... So, should I trigger the second pump on nitrous arming?

For tuning, I am not quite clear on what most dry shot users do. I have a wideband installed and I'm using a TSP 100mm MAF. From what I can tell, I pull timing and add fuel at low IAT. But I think it was Soundengineer who tricked his IAT with a relay to read high temp and did his work there. How much fuel should I add to start with, and am I safe to do this with the low IAT?

That should pretty much get me there. I plan to install my fuel pump sometime this week, but school may get in the way. Let me know what y'all think and if I'm missing anything!

 

Bump, any input?

Since pictures tend to get more of a reaction...

 

Why did you go for a dry shot?

 

After looking at both sides' arguments, I chose dry to avoid a fuel solenoid failure. And I trust my IAT readings enough to believe I can trigger the necessary changes in tune when spraying every time. But lets not start another wet v dry argument.

So any input on how to trigger the tune changes or how much additional fuel to start with on a 75 shot?

 

So no one has any input on how to trigger the tune changes or how much fuel to add to start with?

 

if by tuning for fuel u mean adding fuel, on a dry shot u dont need to, the computer dumps fuel when itvsee the huge dump of oxygen in the nitrous. pull timing, read olugs and go.

 

Thanks for the response! Forgive me, I'm new to both tuning and nitrous, but how would the computer know to add fuel for the increase in O2 flow? I thought if I was WOT that the spark and fuel default to WOT tables/values and doesn't use the MAF or O2 signals, or am I wrong? Believe me, I'd love nothing more than to go out today and spray this thing! I just don't want to make a critical mistake, get away with a 75 shot and have to pull the motor when I hit it with 150.

 

Personally i wouldnt go as high as a 150 on dry shot IMHO.

 

Bump with progress (if anyone finds this in a search), I've installed the second pump and wired it to run while the nitrous is armed. As for tuning, I've picked up an LNC-2000 to pull timing when nitrous is armed per Nitrous Outlet's recommendation. I will not be tuning for additional fuel, just pulling 2 degrees of timing for every 50hp with the LNC-2000.

I haven't sprayed yet, the last step is to install the LNC-2000. But I'm getting closer and closer!

 

This ^^^
pull plugs after pass. Read plugs. And adjust timing from there. (MAF should read the added oxygen and up the fuel itself from what I have read) I'm sure someone else with a lot more knowledge will chime in and correct any misinformation tho.

 

I installed the LMC-2000 yesterday and tested the activation, it looks like it's pulling timing as desired! I was hoping to get to the dyno within a week to see what she will do, starting at 75 and working up to 100+.

Unfortunately I popped a P0101 code two days ago on the highway... gotta figure that out now. I really don't want to have to retrofit this halo kit to a plate...

 

I don't feel comfortable waiting for the fuel trims to start adding fuel as it takes a couple seconds for them to react. Not to mention that when you go into PE you usually go into Speed Density and no corrections are made.
If you already did the resistor thingy to alter the IAT reading for timing, you might as well also use the PE IAT adder and adjust it there as it allows you to tweak only that temperature area you are modifying.

 

Update this thread!
This setup has been changed.