Verifying lnc-2000 timing retard
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 128
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From: Orlando, FL
Verifying lnc-2000 timing retard I switched from removing time via tune to now using a lnc-200. When armed, it flashes green for activated.... But is there a way to verify it's actually pulling timing? Should the new lower total timjng amount show in hp tuners while scanning?
Not sure but you could try this. Leave your bottle off and unhook the power to your fuel solenoid. Turn the timing retard all the way up and take a test drive with the nitrous activated. Get in the throttle about as far as you can in a higher gear without hitting the wot switch and then at some point floor it. If it is pulling 15 degrees timing you should be able to feel it if it is working.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 603
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From: Decatur, IN
LNC-2000 timing retard As indicated in the product instructions, you can't use a scan tool to look at the total timing to verify timing retard because the ECM/PCM does not know the timing retard is occurring. This is because the LNC-2000 is retarding the timing after the ECM/PCM. The LNC-2000 controls the firing of the coils, taking the firing command signal from the ECM/PCM and either not delaying it (for no timing retard) or delaying the signal to the coils by a specific amount of time for timing retard.
You can confirm that the LNC-2000 is taking out timing by monitoring the output voltage on the analog output wire. The analog output wire (gray wire) provides an output of the amount of timing retard being taken out. It is a 0 to 3 volt signal with 0 volts being 0 degrees and 3 volts being 15 degrees. You can record this analog voltage with EFILive, HPTuners, DashDAQ or many other devices. EFILive has a pre-configured math channel for the analog voltage to convert it back into timing retard. You could also use a volt meter (on DC volts) to see the voltage.
You can also physically confirm that the LNC-2000 is taking out timing by using a timing light.
If you are testing to see if it is taking out timing, keep in mind that the LNC-2000 will not taking out timing below 1000 RPM so be sure to test above that RPM.
I hope this helps and thank you for purchasing LPE products.
You can confirm that the LNC-2000 is taking out timing by monitoring the output voltage on the analog output wire. The analog output wire (gray wire) provides an output of the amount of timing retard being taken out. It is a 0 to 3 volt signal with 0 volts being 0 degrees and 3 volts being 15 degrees. You can record this analog voltage with EFILive, HPTuners, DashDAQ or many other devices. EFILive has a pre-configured math channel for the analog voltage to convert it back into timing retard. You could also use a volt meter (on DC volts) to see the voltage.
You can also physically confirm that the LNC-2000 is taking out timing by using a timing light.
If you are testing to see if it is taking out timing, keep in mind that the LNC-2000 will not taking out timing below 1000 RPM so be sure to test above that RPM.
I hope this helps and thank you for purchasing LPE products.
yes the grey wire. thats how i read mine. but like jason said which messed with me for a while till i read the instructions . has to be above 1000 rpm to activate. also if u change the settings on the lnc 2000 make sure u kill the power and then restart cause it wont change unless u do that. i know thats how the 2 step part works anyway im sure the timing works that way aswell. love mine tho been using it for 2+ years. i change my nitrous shot like alot. i go from a 75 to 100 to 150 to try to make good races with my buddies cars and stuff like that. super simple to change timing and hammer down.
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: SE of Pittsburgh, PA
Also for those that want to add a meter, a standard +12 meter will not work for a few reasons. Need to get a digital meter, one for an electronics panel. It will need to be a 3 or 4 wire DC unit. Most of the panel meters need to be powered by 5 volts, not 12-14. Even if the meter states 10 volts, it will eventually burn up. Just need to add a 5 volt regulator, about the size of a power transistor and only a few $. Make sure the meter has enough resolution and reads to 1 or 2 decimal places. If the meter is not zero'd, a variable resistor, potentiometer, can be added. Mine is off by .01 on the meter, but idc, just need to know that it is active. .2 volts/degree.
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