I have a NX dry kit that I purchased and am planning on running a 100-125 dry shot. Now its my car and I can do whatever I want to it, however my dads opinion means alot to me and I'd like him to have my back on this like he has with everything else I've done to the car. From conversations with him about nitrous he is convinced that no matter what safety provisions you have (I have a window and fuel pressure switch) you are just asking for trouble and you will severly shorten the life of your engine. Anybody have some good proven facts that I can throw at him, as far as how LS1 internals stand up to nitrous and the safety of a dry shot versus wet if their is any difference. Its not that my dad is anti performance cars as he was the previous owner of a camaro ss himself and several 70's muscle cars which he worked on himself. Thanks for any information you can offer.

 

if you run a dry kit, as the bottle pressure drops or starts to run out, the MAF sensor will sense that, and it will then drop the amount of fuel that is being added.

as a wet kit, if you start to run out or the pressure gets low, it will not let up on the fuel, the solenoid is open and that is it. so it can flood down, pop, backfire,or make explosions.....

have ran many of nitrous kits, dry does not hit as hard, but is really alot more safe due to the perfect air/fuel mixture that the computer designates.

dry nitrous kits are really safe, especially for your situation, you wont ever have to worry about **** exploding. hope this helps.. later.

 

Yeah, I really trust the MAF to do everything for me when it can't even get it right N/A.

He's right about the spray. It makes cylinder pressure skyrocket, and anything that is weak will break. You've got to watch over EVERYTHING like a hawk. The best thing you can do is use it for a while, make sure everything is running tip-top and prove it to him.

 

as far as wet vs dry, personally i like the wet system better, i dont trust the MAF adjusting the fuel, plus its easier to tune.

 

From what I've learned from many experienced and reputable people, your dad is correct. A dry shot, every time you hit the spray, will cause the motor to run lean for an instant. That will happen every time you spray, which WILL take it's toll on the engine, pistons mainly.

Do a wet shot.





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If you insert "wet" for "dry" and vice versa, your post would make complete sense.

 

Absolutely wrong... you're trying to say that nitrous and fuel injected together will cause the engine to go lean for an instant? That makes no sense. The engine isn't gonna do anything for an "instant", the amount of fuel present the moment you spray is the same the moment you let off. The MAF isn't there to try aimlessly to correct the A/F ratio. On the otherhand, if you use a dry shot, there's an momentary extreme lean condition when the nitrous is injected because the MAF does not react quickly enough to the sudden change of the amount of material flowing through it.

Why does everyone think that the MAF is this mystical, all-knowing piece of technology that can fix everything magicly? The MAF measures the volume vs time of air entering the engine; the IAT sensor measures the temperature of the air; the PCM uses these 2 parameters to determine the amount of oxygen entering the engine per unit time, and injects the amount of fuel corresponding to that value based on stored tables. Why does a car have an IAT sensor? To determine the AIR DENSITY. The amount of oxygen in the air is about 20%. This is considered a constant in determining A/F ratio for the PCM because it assumes that the amount of oxygen in air is ALWAYS 20%. The ONLY exception to this is when using nitrous. Nitrous has 33% oxygen per unit mass. This means that when the computer calculates air density based on IAT, it will inject enough fuel for 1 part oxygen for 5 parts air rather than 1 part oxygen for 3 parts air. This equals a lean condition. Sure, you can trick the MAF into injecting more fuel by putting the nozzle in the air box so the IAT sensor reads the extremely low temperatures of the nitrous and the PCM dumps fuel into the engine to prevent it from failing. If that makes you sleep well at night, great, but I trust my ability to tune a fuel jet and change it as I see fit than to trust a questionable piece of technology in stock form, much less trying to adjust for 13% more oxygen per volume of air.

 

What happens if you spray a wet shot and the fuel noid no open?

 

Then you're fucked, but that's no "momentary lean condition," that's a blown engine.

To make sure this doesn't happen to me, I have an A/F gauge. The trick to using nitrous safely is to think of all the things that could go wrong and find a way to make sure they either don't happen or that you find out before damage is caused.

 

I ran much leaner when spraying dry. I don't trust the MAF too much. I prefer wet, and jet it richer if needed.

I think on a small shot, dry should be ok.

 

Well this is just plain wrong. The MAF sensor reads the mass air flowed which includes many factors such as the air density, temperature, and moisture. All those factors and more make up the amount of mass air flowed. The IAT sensor is only there to monitor the incoming air temperature to remove timing when the air starts to get hot outside.

Having said that though, I still would not trust a MAF sensor to correct for nitrous being sprayed into the motor. Most every dry kit that I have tuned/dyno'd on an LS1 has always ran leaner than it should be. I prefer wet kits for this reason among others.

 

well since nx does not make a dry kit... i would question your using of n2o until you master more knowledge about it.

Ryan

 

But you can run it as a Dry Kit. I did.

 

your right it can be run as a dry kit.

for a ls1 all you need is a bottle, line, noid, line, jet and nozzle for a dry kit.

i'be put together a few of them

 

Do you know how a MAS works? It's got resistors that measure the friction caused by air passing over it which sends a 5(WOT)-0V reading to the PCM. I know this because I've had a voltmeter hooked to it and watched it before. ALL IT DOES is measure the amount of air entering the engine. The IAT is there to calculate air density to then add/remove fuel and timing based on that reading.

 

Seriously, do some research and then come back and try to tell me how a MASS AIR METER works. It says it right in the name, mass air. You can't get anymore obvious than that. And it doesn't send voltage in the manner you say, it sends a frequency presumably to avoid voltage drop through the wires to the PCM but that doesn't matter in this conversation. Air density, moisture, and temperature all play a factor in the mass of air. It doesn't need a separate IAT sensor to give you the mass of the air being flowed into the engine. This is a fact. The IAT is there for nothing else during the PCM's closed loop full operating temperature but to pull timing when it starts to get hot outside. I have proven this time and time again by switching the resistance of the IAT with resistors from -10 to 90 celsius and only seen timing change, not fueling at either part throttle closed loop or WOT. I believe start up and open loop are different and that we do not have access to those tables in edit/hptuners but I may be incorrect there. Sorry...

 

Friction? Are you shitting me?