I'm having some issues with my nitrous setup and looking for some input. Pretty much the a/f in 1st and 2nd gear is 11.8-12.0 but once it goes into 3rd it goes super rich, like 9's afr. Car is an A4, plate kit with a dedicated with c16.

Hoping somebody has had a similiar issue.

Doubt it's a bad bottle fill. The nitrous from purge is a healthy white color, not clear

 

Bottle pressure in 3rd ?

 

Not sure. I'll have to check it out. AFR freaked me out so I got out, lol

 

bottle pressured dropped or ran out of nitrous if all motor afr is good.

 

What was your pressure after purge ?
Betting that was the issue.
How may passes and at what shot ?
Have a bottle heater ?

May need a NANO kit...once a bottle gets a little low, you lose pressure faster. A NANO kit makes use of almost a full bottle.... so I heard.

 

Could be a combo of lean spike on initial hit then rich once you get the load on it. Rich is way better than too lean!

Maybe your fuel system is getting punched in the face on the hit and then catches up? A leaner jet would be needed after you work that out.

 

It' did not run out of nitrous. It did this on the first pull.

It did it on the first pass. Actually all 3 times. 150 pills
I have a dedicated by the fuse panel to help with lean spike. Tuner put a fatter jet in to help on the hit cause it was lean.

 

No it's not, especially if the n/f ratio dipped into the 9s!
Rich and too much timing hurts motors.
What do you consider too lean?

 

N/F ratio is very different than A/F ratio. But yes, 9:1 A/F is not a good thing.
OP, for it to go from 12:1 and straight to 9:1, that tells me that the nitrous solenoid clicked off at some point. Do you have a progressive controller or anything? What bottle pressure are you running? What jetting is in the plate? Also, did you set the flowing fuel pressure on the dedicated fuel system? If so what did you set it to?

 

Let me know how this goes... It was good talking with ya on the phone.

-Chris

 

Yes, your advice was tip top notch and I'm hoping to try out some of the things you suggested once I get some time. Hopefully this weekend as that's the earliest I could get to a dyno. Thanks Chris, you're the man

 

Tune it about half a point richer than what its running WOT on motor. I wouldn't go up on the fuel jet anymore than what we put on the jet card, because we are already on the conservative side of things. You are going to have a small lean spike when you first hit the nitrous, thats just how nitrous works because its coming out at ~1000 psi vs the fuel coming out at say, ~55psi. I would go back down on the fuel jet and see if it cleans up and make sure you are right around ~1000-1050psi bottle pressure, as I'm sure you already know. If that doesn't work then I would do a consumption test on the nitrous side, if it is flowing enough nitrous that means there is too much fuel, if it isn't, then there is a restriction on the nitrous side, either one can cause a rich condition. If you need help with any of this just send us a PM!

Thanks,
Garrett

 

Okay, have an update. Put the 100 pills in the car and went out and made a pass. Instant 17-18 afr. Got home and cracked the line open from the standalone to the fuel noid. Only air and tiny,tiny amount of fuel seeped out. Not getting fuel, so I disconnected line from plate and put in a bottle and jumper wired the fuel noid. Got all air out and a steady stream of fuel coming out. Hopefully I'm moving in the right direction.....

 

You can run a small bleeder jet (.020) off the purge port in the fuel solenoid and return it with a 3an line back to the safe tank, this will help keep air out of the lines.

Thanks,
Garrett

 

How often have you done this? Reason I'm asking, is the kit isn't getting fuel again. I don't get how this is happening. Can't believe that air got back into the line from regulator to fuel noid again. Haven't cracked the line open since I assumed the problem was fixed....

 

Can you post a pic of how you have everything mounted/setup? And where is the return/bleeder line going into the tank at? Above or below fuel level?

Thanks,
Garrett

 

What does your fuel system consist of? How are you supplying fuel to the solenoid?

Do you have good fuel pressure to the solenoid?

 

The bleeder is for people using a deadhead style of fuel setup. With the dedicated that you have there is no need to run something like this because you have a return style system.

-Chris

 

I don't know what fuel setup the OP has, but we have seen where, on larger regulators, the bleeder actually helping keep the regulator open and not "chattering" on the initial hit. You guys should really get on the same page with your technical advise. It can be confusing to your customers.

 

After talking more with the customer and seeing a picture of his setup, he has an Aeromotive 13301 regulator with an NO safe system, which is a return style regulator. I assumed that he had a non bypass style setup being that he was having some air in the lines and a possible pressure issue, seeing as we we don't ever have these kind of issues with our "return style" safe systems. We are working with him to resolve this. Thanks for your input though.



-Garrett