I appologize in advance for my lack of nitrous knowledge. It's something I've never really messed with. I'm heading towards putting my car back together. I'll list it's mod list at the end of the post. I'm wanting to add a nitrous setup to it as I'm putting it back together. I'm thinking I'd want to run a plate kit. I'd also like it to be as safe as possible to run on my setup. To be honest, when I spec'd my parts for heads and cam I didn't have nitrous in mind. However, I'd like to run a maybe a 150 shot. Is that going to work with my setup?

Info on the car:
Stock bottom end 346
6spd Car
Racetronix 600hp capable pump and hotwire kit
Mamo/AFR 220 heads Hand worked/milled/spring upgrade/hollow valves
Ported FAST 102
NW 102 TB
Custom Cam
Custom head gaskets
ARP Head Bolts
25% UD Pulley
Car should be around 11.6:1 compression. Is that too high to safely throw nitrous at? What recommendations do you have? Car isn't together at the moment so I do not know it's power as of now.

 

If it were me I'd start with a 100 and see how that works for you

 

That's probably what I'll try and do.

 

Is it gonna work with those mods??....HELL yeah!! I have lesser heads and intake, and run a plate @150 (see sig)

 

Again it will love nitrous. Give nitrous outlet a call, super nice kits and tech info to keep you safe.

 

Anything from 100-150hp should be fine really, 11.6:1 isn't really crazy compression, although running water methanol or race fuel would really help you out, lets you run more timing and gives you more of a margin for error. (Water methanol is going to drop your IAT's alot too.) I wouldn't be too concerned about running some nitrous on that setup. You won't really benefit or have the need for a nitrous specific cam unless you are spraying 250+.

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/20933-...lb-bottle.html

Let me know if you have anymore questions. We also sell water methanol systems too.

Thanks,
Garrett

 

Here's a few things you would need to safely spray that 150 shot. If you wanted to do more than that I'd really check into a dedicated fuel system, since your pump may be close to maxed out. On a N/A car, it really wouldn't be worth it to run a meth setup with that compression ratio. Let me know if you have any questions- I'd be more than happy to help you out.

102MM Plate System for Aftermarket Fuel Rails-

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/efi-wet...uel-rails.html

Purge-

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/nitrous...purge-kit.html

NOS Mini Progressive Controller-

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/electro...ontroller.html

Lingenfelter LNC2000 Timing Retard/Launch Controller-

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/electro...ontroller.html

Heated Bottle Bracket-

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/nitrous...cessories.html

 

Should I be concerned with my stock short block? The car should make in the upper 400's for whp on heads and cam with my setup. Would I be over doing the limit if I added a 100 shot to it?

 

If everything is done and setup right you'll be fine

 

As long as your tune is on point, you should be fine.

 

"They say" SBE is good to 175 shot (with spot-on-tune) others have gone higher...I'll stay at 150 with SBE and stay below 6700 rpm.

 

Ryan....be careful

Your already making 550 plus at the crank with my set-up (more likely)....spray is volatile and a little goes a long way (the bump in torque is usually alot higher than the bump in HP!).

A 75 shot will be very noticeable....if you want longevity limit it to 100 HP because if you don't I will be a fortune teller and tell you the first failure your going to have. Its going to lift/crack a piece of the thin top ring land of your OEM cast pistons....not a total catastrophe usually....the piece will mess the deck of the head some and beat up the top of the piston a little more but the engine will keep running and a few seconds later spit whats left of the small chunk of aluminum out your exhaust port after it bounces around a bit (and typically make some noise during and sometimes after).

Bottom line....spraying an already very stout engine with a weak factory piston (the weakest link in the OEM short) is more dangerous than spraying an engine where the baseline is 75-100 HP lower.

Understand its usually not a matter of if something will fail at that point but typically when. If you keep it 100 or less your odds go up a great deal but even that wouldn't be called totally reliable IMO....the cylinder pressure and heat gets alot more than that piston was ever designed to cope with.

Btw your "dope" heads are getting closer.....LOL

Next time we are on the phone I will fill you in on the Nitrous deal....I ran it and have run nitrous for years but I know and understand the risks associated with it and usually err on the conservative side. You need to add RPM window switch, fuel pressure cut off, and a clutch activated switch is also good in a 6 speed application.....all these items help save your azz. A bottle heater and gauge to monitor pressure is also a perk and a small fuel cell with race gas in the front in a wet system is very bonus as you can run high octane race fuel in that for when you spray. Lastly you have to find a way to retard the timing some when your spraying also. Safer and typically more powerful. If your in go ALL IN if your wanting a reasonable level of long-term reliability.....or just take a pass....my final piece of advice.



Cheers,
Tony