Guys,

I've been having issues with my NOS Mini Prog Controller 15974. I have good tach, TPS, and solenoid connections. However when I hit the throttle "1" is suppose to stay on steady but instead it flashes. The solenoids are clicking however there if very little fuel coming out of the fuel solenoid. I heard the grounding is very flaky on this controller. I have them seperate. I even tried using aligator clips and using new grounds to solve the issue. I'm at a loss, I think Nitrous Outlet is too (they have been very helpful) and NOS tech support sucks. Any ideas before I pull the off the car and buy something else? Thanks.

what are the settings in the controller when you are test firing?

Which setting in particular? I've played with them all myself and I set them per Nitrous Outlet advise. The 1 still flashes

what does it say on the tps screen for voltage?

It's at 4.5 WOT

What are all the setting from beginning to end when you go through the menu?

Thanks for your time going over this with me. This is setup on a 2005 Pontiac GTO w/ an LS2

Settings are as follows:

Step F.) F. 20 (Per Nitrous Outlet)

Step C.) C.00 (LS2)

Step. P) P.00

1.) 1.00 (Had to set this here for the solenoids to activate in my garage)

2.) 2.60

3.) 3.0.0

4.) 4.30

5.) 5.1.5

6.) 6.99

7.) 7.00

8.) 8.02

9.) 9.4.5

I'm tapped into the Purple wire on the DBW TB. Signal works correctly, 4.5 WOT.

I'm tapped into the Green wire on the coil pack connector. Signal works correctly per the display.

Just curious how others have there grounded and if there 1 flashes at WOT when hitting the Nitrous and also when testing in the garage, car not running and bottle off. (My bottle is not filled and my car needs tune for the fuel system).

Thanks,

Mine is as follows. Mine is on two stages. First all in, second is progressed. Neither 1 or 2 blinks. Does it sound like it's progressing for the time programmed. Also not much fuel will come out if the car is not on. Even with the key foward. Try cleaning the connection where the controller plugs in. I had one on a bike in the past that acted like you are describing. Also while sorting this problem I would disconnect the solenoids and use an led light to see what the wires are doing at the solenoid. Are you using relays by chance? Also the controller does not have to be plugged in for the unit to work. Do you know anyone else you try swapping controllers with?

Not sure what progressing is suppose to sound like? I have IPhone videos of the solenoids clicking. I don't think I can post them here though.

What should I clean the controller connection with? It shouldn't really be dirty, its brand new.

I attached the wiring diagram I went by from Nitrous Outlet. There is a relay for the main part of the system.

The unit you had on the motorcycle, with the numbers flashing would the solenoids click on at all?

And no, I don't know someone with this controller, I wish I did.

Thanks.

Here are a couple videos, hope these work. Solenoids sound like there working correctly?

Do remember the Gto ls2 is a rising falling tps circuit. Even tho the green wife has 4.5 volts at wot, it may also have that at closed throttle. I'd double check. A lot of people have actually went to a wot switch under the gas pedal or tapped into the wiring at the pedal wiring to get a volt signal for wot. I am tapped into the wiring at the pedal.

I tapping into the purple wire on the DBW TB. It's at 0.6 at key on and 4.5 at WOT. I should be in spec there.

Thanks

Ok. First off. When you are test firing this is the key just in the on position? If so the fpss is keeping the relay from closing and providing power to the solenoids. You would have to bypass the fpss to test fire the system.

Just try plugging and unplugging the usb connection a couple times. I cannot open the files on my phone. Text them to 8044263861.

My FPSS is bypassed right now. I have that wire on a direct ground.

Also I've plugged in and out that usb connection several times, no changes.

One thing I noticed in your video is you should have been at FULL ON NON CYCLING at 1.5 seconds, yet your solenoids sounded like they were still cycling.

What does the handheld see for wot TPS voltage and what is it set to?

FWIW, I have had good luck w/this.

Update, I believe I solved the issue, I'll share my results once I'm 100% sure all is good. I got the 1 to stop flashing for sure.

I've been told the cycling and stopping is normal for 1.5? It cycles and then it stops on its own.

Also, dumb question regarding the FPSS, with the key on wouldn't the rail always see 40+ psi? Just trying to figure out why I had to bypass mine for testing.

The solenoids cycling or 'chattering', then stopping is the progressive working. The progressive function quickly opens and closes the solenoid, only letting certain amounts of nitrous/fuel through. When it stop chattering at the end of the progression, the solenoids are then wide open, allowing the full hit of nitrous/fuel through. With your ramp time set at 1.5, that means the solenoids will chatter for 1.5 seconds, then they will fully open. Sometimes the FPSS can be a pain- even though they are a great safety feature. Make sure that it's set correctly by using a test light and fuel pressure gauge.

No, the rail will not maintain pressure with just the key on. The car would kave to be running.

The FPSS is suppose to be preset at 35 psi which should be fine for my set up right?

How do I test it with a test light?