Quickin

OK, how about this.

I'd like to do both the TT and the prog controller for the 300 DP system and use it as a separate system with a stand alone fuel cell to feed it 100 octane.

Then I'd like to install a dry system to use on a daily basis with just an 80 shot, just for playing on the hwy or whatever. So that would be just a straight shot, now TT or prog controller.

Question is:

How often will I go through noids due to the prog controller if I spray the DP shot say 2 times a week?

BMN

That 2 seperate kit setup would be no prob. When you get all your stuff, let me know and scan the wire diagrams/ instructions and send them to me. I will draw u up a new one that you or your installer can EASILY follow with matching wire colors. You will be able to us the dry, the direct port, or both at the same time. People get scared of wires. They shouldn't. Instead of looking at 20 different connections, they should just look at 1 at a time. One wire is easy to deal with.

So, spend money, help the economy, and let me know when your ready. If you lived closer, I would do it for you.

Quickin

I appreciate it.

Maybe I'll fly you down here when I'm ready. Couple days in Lauderdale won't kill you will it

BMN

LOL, no it wouldn't.

BMN

Nope, I called Ramchargers and asked them about it. The TT goes inline with the CPS harness, u unplug it from the CPS, plug the one end of the TT into it. Then you take the harness u unplugged from the CPS and plug it into the TT. Just like adding 2 extensions cords togethor. There are 2 other lines that come out of it. One that turns it on when u put 12 volts on it, and the other that is the output for the window switch. It supplies a ground when inbetween 3k and 6k/6.5k. Due to the fact that the Maximizer already has a built in window switch just like the TT. It is easier to not use the TT output line. Just hook up the tach line from the Maximizer and it will it will do the same thing.

Now, if one would say" The old one doesn't have a window switch! ". Very easy to overcome. Just one more relay to hook up. The prog cntrllr only pulses the noids when it sees that the car at WOT. rite? rite! glad we all agree. So, all one would have to do is take the N20 line from the TT and have it close a relay that is in line with the WOT switch that is going to the Prg cntrllr. If the car is not within 3-6 k, then line is broken even if the car is at WOT. When it is within 3-6k, then it will close the relay and complete the circuit witch would allow the prg contrllr to see the WOT switch and if it is closed or not.

Sorry, but I'm getting real frusterated with folks that always say " You can't do that!"
People should learn to ask "How can I do that?" Then work at it instead of giving up because they don't know.
One would be suprises at how much farther they can get with the second.

LS1 Power Plant

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, but you still haven’t hooked one up, and you're giving bad advice. You are leading people on with your "theories" that it should and will work. I guess that's one of the great features of internet message boards. For real, look at what you drew up. You didn't even look at the TT's diagram before you pulled that out of fat air. You get frustrated when people say "You can't do that"? Tough. It doesn’t work out of the box. So I guess you get frustrated at the truth too....

Quickin- I wish you the best of luck. It'll all work together; you'll just have to do some more modding. Feel free to PM me if ya need any help, I have a few wiring diagrams if you need them.

BMN

Very well, I wil draw it all up in Autocad for u and post it. Then you can criticize it. I guess I can't get upset. Not everyone has a B.S. in EET from Purdue with 12 years of experiance in 12v wiring and an electronics manufacturing business. To me, it is a very simple problem.

I will even make this bet with any forum membor. If you buy the equipment, I will set it up. If I can't do it. Then I will have my company pay for the whole kit, N20, TT, and prog cntrllr. When I get it, and I will, I will charge for the labor.

Wait for the diagram to be posted before you make the bet. It will be up in about an hour.

BMN

Here it is. And I don't know what cables that I drew that u claim don't exitst. they are the ones the go inline with the CPS. You also ?nd the PCM in the first picture. Where do the think the signal from the CPS goes? The TT just goes inline with it just like a VCR in between the antenna and TV. This is nearly the same setup that we have for our ZEX upgraded window switches. The relay just in line with the main power or ground on a ZEX kit. Here it is just breaking the line for the WOT switch which would be the equivalent of taking your foot off the gas.
This is also the complicated version. I have the Mxmzr wired to read 12V when the car is at WOT. Just like thier N20 kits. If it was looking for a switched ground signal at WOT. Then all you would have to do is hook the N20 out line from the TT right the WOT switch instead of going through the relay.

So, without further delay here is the draw up. I had to print then scan it because I dought that everyone has autocad to view it. Any ?'s or comments on or about it, feel free, and I will try to explain in more or less detail.

hoserack

I'm with you buddy, I want solutions not problems.
I stay away from ney sayers

mikey94_95

Good diagram. (But I see some spelling mistakes, HAHA!) Super-simple to understand. They should work nicely together.

silver69camaro

iTrader: (17)

I dunno maybe I'm just crazy, but isn't there only one harness coming off of the timing tuner that goes to the CPS where it piggybacks the old harness? What's the deal with the second harness going into the TT? What I mean is...isn't there only one three wire harness coming out of the timing tuner that leads to the crank position sensor? In the drawings it appears that you added another three wire harness leading back into the timing tuner. Maybe I'm just looking at the diagram a little goofy!?! An explaination would help I guess.

BMN

If you go to the ramchargers site http://www.ramchargers.com/cgi-bin/n...862&cat3=26863

click on more info and you will see a good picture of it. It goes in line with, not piggybacks. Just like the VCR in between the TV and antenna.

Eugenio_SS

iTrader: (2)

if I understand this right ?
I won't need to have LS1-Edit and flash the PCM before going to the track... I can just get the TT and pull timing.
On top of that the Progressive would run independantly... which is the way I see it.
I'm so happy ... now I need to learn more about the TT.

BMN

Correct, arm your system, timming gets pulled, the TT works the relay the closes to complete the WOT switch line only when you are in the RPM range (3k-6k). Same thing as lifting the pedal. If you have any more ?'s, please feel free to ask.

Eugenio_SS

iTrader: (2)

I think I'll wire them independantly... since the NX Maximizer has a built in window-switch.
I'll plug the WOT to it directly.
As for the TT, I'll activate it when I arm the system.

So when I arm the system,
It wakes up the NX-Maximizer, TT (which starts the timing), and fuel-pump that pressurizes the independant fuel system.
So all 3 systems are GO.
TT is already doing his job, so is the fuel pump.
Now it's the NX-Maximizer to play with the solenoids... it has its own window-switch incorporated, and I'll just plug a WOT switch directly there.

imho, I think this is more modular and more efficient way of doing things.
As for my LS1-Edit I just purchased last week, a local guy who has a S/C-SS is taking it
Can't wait.