best solenoids?
So apples to apples!
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Needless to say he's going to be switching to NX now.
Oh yeah, these weren't LS1 motors, these were $20,000 18* Headed SBC Motors in a Green Mustang Coupe.
Things to look for in a good nitrous solenoids. Teflon pistons, Some type of filter, large orifice size, epoxy coil, stainless steel body large wire leads.
Things to look for in a bad solenoid. Black rubber psiton (swells over time) and tears, no filters, brass body, small wire (look like dental floss), open wound coils (cheap and burn up over time)especially if they get any water on them.
Things to look for a good fuel solenoid. Viton piston, stainless steel body, epozy coil, large wire leads.
Things to look for a bad fuel solenoid. Again black rubber, brass body, open wound coil, dental floss wire.
the large wire can handle more amp draw. More amp draw help the noid open at any temp. Some solenoid can only open at 1000 psi when cold. (when was the last time any engine compartment was cold). also a little more amp draw means the solenoid opens faster. There are some companies I have used that the nitrous solenoid would not open 900psi and above.
The brass bodies noids out there that do work I listed them due to the fact man are they ugly after time get ahold of them.
No I have read several people talk about there solenoid stuck open. There are only a couple of things that stick a noid open.
1. trasher between the piston and seat( hense the need for a filter)
2. wire incorrect, or electrical failure of the relay or micro switch ( contacts got stuck together.
3. piston is swollen. This is only on fuel or black rubber nitrous.
Fuel piston can swell if you use alcohol on a gas piston or gas on an alcohol piston.
Anyway enough rambl'n hope this helps.

what....like actually get the car back into one piece......yeah I guess I should work on that first.......



