Ok guys so I haven't been on here in about 6 years and I decided to take out my '98T/A and spruce it up. Its a auto with 3.73s in the rear (just got a rear end rebuild 200 miles ago and is making a humming noise again), MAC mid length headers and MAC Exhaust (catless with dynomax muffler), B&M adjustable shift kit, MSD wires and NGK plugs, Raptor Ram Air hood, ZR1 wheels with Nitto 555s, Eibach lowering springs, subframes, strut tower brace, and 4 point roll cage. Finally and most importantly it only has 59,000 ORIGINAL MILES and it has a NOS 5177 dry kit. The car is mint and tastefully done. The car sat for a while and I decided to go over everything and sadly the car hasn't had a dyno tune since August of 1999 so I thought to bring a bird out of a deep sleep. The car runs bad. Literally I think a bone stock F-body could take it. Anyways I fixed just about all the small issues it had but for some odd reason my nitrous kit doesn't work. I power tested everything and the solenoids are NOT getting any power. I arm the NOS switch and hit the switch on the throttle body and I get NOTHING. I have 12 Volts at the power wire, arm wire, the wire coming from the throttle body but nothing to the solenoids. I also wanted to ask am I supposed to hear a click from the solenoids when I engage the NOS with the key turned but the car not on? I am having Dr. Phil tune my car and I'd like to have the nitrous working before I have the car tuned so I can run nitrous. Any help is appreciated and I'd like to stress t . hat its all is wired up correctly. if theres any other questions I have i'll ask as I go

 

Do you have a window switch, that sees an RPM range? Normally you would need to be above 3000 RPM for this to activate the solenoids. Normally 3 conditions required on most systems I've seen, armed, WOT and minimum RPM.

 

I wouldn't let Phil tune my piano lol. Where in MI are you op?

 

It sounds like you may have a bad relay or a bad WOT switch on the throttle body. Are you getting 12v after the WOT switch with it activated?