I know this pic isn't the best and I left my dremel at the house, but can anyone tell me how this plug looks from this angle?

 

They look fine to me. If it was me I would pull 2 more degrees out. What was your fuel and afr?

 

I'm running Sunoco 116 in a stand alone and 93 in the tank. Usually my wideband says 10.9:1 but for some reason it's giving me a reading anywhere from 17-20:1 WOT on the bottle. Even my N/A afr has changed according to the wideband. It's usually consistently 11.8:1 and now it's 12.5-13.5:1.

I'm not sure what's going on with that. The only variable that's changed is I went from B8EFS to B9EFS.
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Do you have anymore specs on the motor and what kind of timing are you running?

 

2013 camaro SS, stock ci, stage 3 heads Wiseco pistons, K1 rods, 235/242 .603/.618" 114 cam. I was pulling 11 degrees of timing through an Lnc2000. This is also on a NX Direct Port with 31n 26f jets on 5psi. I'm not sure what my timing is on the motor, it was remote tuned

 

Hi Boone, for a Plug "read" the picture does NOT have the DETAIL !

The chance for a "good" read is NOT Possible.

Lance

 

Yeah I kinda figured since my phone camera kind of stinks and my flash wouldn't work due to low battery. When I get this lean condition figured out I'm going to take more pictures

 

Another thing, please leave the anti seize for the do it yourself mechanics working on daily drivers.

 

And I would be pulling way more than 11 degrees unless your N/A timing is like 22.

 

On aluminum heads I will ALWAYS use antiseize, it's not worth the risk of stripping threads to me.

How much timing would you pull? I did 2° per 50 shot minus 1°.

 

Seriously if you're spraying 300, leave the antiseize at home. It will strew your plug readings. You're looking for heat in the threads. If your threads have gunk on them you'll never know the true reading.

You really need to know what your timing is on motor only.

Not trying to be a dick, but a 300 shot on a SBE is something you don't need to take lightly. You're going about it all wrong right now. Imo.

 

I've got a forged bottom end. Wiseco pistons and K1 rods. No way would I spray more than 150 shot on the SBE.

Maybe I'll take a reading of a couple without antiseize on them and see how they look for a reading.

 

I didn't notice the antiseize. Ya no way to read the heat on the plugs. From the pictures it looked like no heat on the threads but that's wrong. I won't run a 300 unless i had the fuel and timing perfect. Surprised you didn't burn a hole in it with those afrs.

 

I guess I learned something new tonight, I didn't know you can't read heat on them with anti seize.

I found out after troubleshooting that I had my fuel solenoids channel set to a 1 sec. Delay! Ouch. I'm still trying to figure out why while n/a I'm 13:1 when before yesterday I was always 11.8:1. I don't want to spray again with new plugs until I sort that out. Any ideas?

 

116 leaded fuel ? Could be killing the O2 sensors ?

 

Hi Boone, thanks for the reply.

I USE Copper Slip (Jet Nut), this also helps keep the plug cooler, the steel.

The read is best taken by observation of the ground strap for AFR.
I like to see 50/50 with "sharp edges" as if new.
I like to see the insulator as a piece of white chalk.
I like to see the "fire band" 1/2 of the insulator length.

The chance NOT to damage a piston IS based on a correct Spark Instant.

Many her will state "other" AND never report EGT.

My friend Mike Thermos (Nitrous Supply, NOS) supplies that same tech as I state AND ADDS when the NOS/Spark/Octane is correct you may often "see" an EGT DROP when under "spray".

You may want to install an EGT gauge ?

Yes, send better pics.
Please STATE the UEGO sensor and Gauge brand ?
The stated WOT ARF could be just a "fouled" sensor = "0" voltage report = bad read form no output caused by your too rich AFR.

Lance

 

I'm running an Innovate PSN-1 gauge. I recalibrated it today with no change. If the sensor is fouling out wouldn't my idle and normal driving a/f be off too?

 

Thanks a lot Lance I'm going to check out those jet nuts and use that advice next time I read plugs

 

11.8 is really rich for a n/a motor pass. 13.1 on motor isn't optimal but isn't very bad either. Definitely get it sorted out on motor first before going back to the juice.

 

I noticed a bit more fouling on cylinder #3 plug than the others. Would that make the wideband pick up a leaner reading?