Hey guys thanks in advance for your time and consideration into my questions here... Unfortunately I have searched the internet for about 3-4 hours this morning and have been unable to find some real answers here. Hopefully a guru on this site can help. I have a couple of quick issues that I need to figure out today, and NX is closed on weekends.

1. I have an Autometer wideband AFR gauge that outputs a 0-4 volt linear signal for data logging. To run my closed loop AFR correction with my Max4 it calls for a 0-5 volt signal. Anyone else run these two pieces of equipment together, or is this just plain impossible? If you've done it, or would know how to do it please let me know. The Max4 software does not allow a user adjustment on what voltage it sees, only allows for user entered AFR value at 0 and at 5 volts.

2. If my AFR gauge will not work for correction through the controller, I will have to change up my solenoid wiring as if I am running a single stage setup, therefore I'd be utilizing the stage 1 blue solenoid ground wire off of the controller and leave the red solenoid ground from the controller empty and unconnected...this make sense to everyone?

3. Probably unnecessary here I agree, however I wanted safety and more simplicity...I am using an LNC-2000 timing box for retard. In the MX4 software it asks what solenoid percent you'd like the timing output from the MX4 to activate the timing box. If I enter that value at 0, will the MX4 command the timing box to activate as soon as the MX4 is armed, or must there be some value greater than 0 entered into this box? I'm using time based progression tune for the strip and a speed based progression tune for the street. Obviously I'd like as much timing as possible out of the hole, but for safety purposes I'd prefer the timing gets pulled immediately as the system is armed.

4. And finally, does anyone know the VSS pulses per mile input value for a 2002 Camaro z28 4l60e car? It seems as if 4000 is correct...however I'd just like to be sure. For some reason the learn mode isn't operating correctly, or I'm just too dumb to work it properly.


Again, any input here from anyone is greatly appreciated.

 

I have not personally done this but I will try and help.

1. If you have 0-4 volt out put just do the math to calculate what it would be at 5 volts and it should still work. For example 0=10 afr 4=20 afr you could put 5v=22.5v and your 0-4v out put should be read correctly.

2. It should work just test the system will shut off at idle with no nitrous or fuel hooked up and changing your afr at idle.

3. Should be able to test at idle with nothing hooked using a volt meter if that wire will provide power/ground at 0 even if it doesn't meet system activation for window switch etc. If not just set it to 1 or 2 percent something lower than it can actually control too.

4. Sorry don't know this but hopefully other have more exsperiance with this.

 

Thank you very much for your reply and help. I worked up some figures that appear to make sense for the values 0-5v compared to my 0-4v outputs, that was a good idea, and luckily I'm fairly decent with numbers. Now that the work week is in session I'll give Nitrous Express a call and verify some of these things. I was able to postpone my dyno day until later this week...so I have a couple more days to iron it out completely now.

 

Just in case anyone else here was curious, or ran into similar problems in the future, I was able to get some information from technical support at both Nitrous Express and Autometer. Both techs were helpful.

1. Because autometer output says 10.0 AFR at 0 volts and 17.0 AFR at 4 volts, you enter 18.75 into the Nitrous Express software for an AFR value at 5 volts and the readings will be accurate.

2. I was correct, single stage wiring as most diagrams show, leave the red solenoid wire unused from the controller, however I did not need to adjust this now that my AFR output readings are fixed.

3. The Nitrous Express software needs a value greater than 0 for the timing retard command to initiate the timing box. 1.0 turns it on almost immediately. I confirmed this by using a test light with the nitrous bottle closed on a test hit. At 0 the test light did not illuminate, with 1.0 inputted for that value om a test hit with the bottle closed, the test light turned on, telling me the box would've commanded the timing retard box to activate.

4. VSS pulses per mile are in fact 4000.

Thanks for looking and hopefully this helps someone in the future.