nightrider123

Whats is your thought on this plug. Im new to reading plugs so would appreciate some input. This was 100 shot @ 28 degrees timing.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi rider, the SP heat range looks fine.

The Timing "steel read" is NOT in focus.

I see a small amount of "bad" steel on the center electrode ?

I think 28* is a high Advance Value.

Lance

nightrider123

Is this better? I was not sure on how much timing to run. I have been running 32 on street without any spark knock and it seemed to run good so i just pulled 4 degrees out for the 100 hit.

brandon@nitrousoutlet

iTrader: (2)

Did you drive on that spark plug at all other than WOT?

nightrider123

Just down the return at track

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi rider, yes better.
What I need is to see the edges of the ground strap for metal loss.
I seemed to see this on the center electrode.

Did you TDC the timing marks for "0" alignment ?

The 28* could be anywhere.

Another way is to "pull" the timing when at 32* WOT NO NOS finding the point of a LOSS of Torque.

Then do your -4 retard.

What is your local track's Altitude ?

Lance

nightrider123

I don't understand tdc the timing marks for 0 alignment? I have a 6014 box and timing is locked at 32. Altitude is 1300

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi Rider, yes my guess. (1300-1500)
This altitude CAN require a more advanced Ignition Timing event. (+2*)

OK, the GM EMS CAN verify TDC "0" by the OEM grade software/firmware fitted.

The MSD 6014 IS NOT ABLE to do this correction.

NOW I ASK 24xe or my 58x (60-2) as the Target Wheel Tooth Count ?

Lance

nightrider123

Its carbed and 58x

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi Rider, your are ONE of the BETTER LS-1 Tech Members, with good knowledge !
AFTER MANY (100+) observations, the MAX 58x IS + 1.75 for a TDC "comp" as Common.

Thus I STATE a "safe" Spark Instant, though NOT "measured" BUT COMMON.

Lance

nightrider123

Ok good enough and thanks

nightrider123

nightrider123

One more question, after it cools off here i plan to go back to the truck and up to a 200. That is a #7 plug, should i keep that or go to a #8? Also i ran vp112 so should i increase octane as well?

blk00ss

iTrader: (66)

You can't get a reading from a plug after it's been drove on. Even from the return road. Try again. Shut it off as soon as you let off of the throttle. Have someone tow you back in to check the plugs. It's really the only way.

And I wouldn't put much faith into what panara bread guy says. He will probably tell you to run a tr6 gapped at .050".

nightrider123

Lol I figured i was going to hear that but I didn't have a cart or anything to pull me back. I was more or less trying to see if i was in the ball park of being on the safe side. Next time ill have something to pull me back thanks.

brandon@nitrousoutlet

iTrader: (2)

This is correct info. Idle and part throttle can wash the data from the plug.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi Rider, as you see MANY here just want to "put you down" for a good report of quality tech.
My customers, many, race in LONG races such as BAJA (250, 500, 1000 miles)

After the race they bring me the Spark Plugs AND filters both Oil and Fuel.

MY INSPECTION of the Spark Plug's sharp edges, with a correct tune, IS AS NEW just as when the box is opened.

The use of a #7 (pictured) now looks good and with a HP (200) increase there will be more heat.

I also use Brakleen (Brake Parts) to wash the "soot" away from the plug surface.

I would like you to view the Autolite 3922x Racing Plug for track use.
This plug is designed for NASCAR use in a CUP engine.

Lance

MaroonMonsterLS1

So I've advocated reading plug for a while. It truly is the best way to know what's going on inside the engine. However, since we have some experts here, would you care to shed light on what alternatives there are for the "small time" nitrous guy that doesn't have anyone to tow him back and maybe has a less than ideal shut down area where he can't stop and pull plugs?

sometimes if I have to I will stop and pull just one plug (usually from the hottest cylinder if I know which it usually is) and throw a used one in that I keep in my jacket, then fire the car up and make it back to the pits.

IS there an alternative or are you just sortof "up a creek" if you don't have a good place to pull of/someone to tow you back

nightrider123

Damn good question. And to add to that what about driving down to the lanes at the track? Does that wash the readings too? Do i have to pull my car there too?

brandon@nitrousoutlet

iTrader: (2)

This is a viable option. But, to find the hottest cylinder, pulling all of the plugs is required. This will entail pulling the car to the lanes, short idle time, quick burn out and make a hit. Shut it off after the stripe and pull it back to the pits. Another thing that isn't covered here often is when you're working on a new combination or new tune up, don't go out there and bomb the thing all the way down the track. Start off with small hits. Take it to the 330, then 1/8th and so on. This will give you an idea of what's going on throughout the run. A lot of cars get hurt when they go into high gear(higher load) so keep that in mind too.