Fuel solenoid died and I didn't even know it.
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Its a very tricky hookup if you run lots of window switches and stuff. Were working on making it simpler and more user freindly. Email me at DynoTuneSales@aol.com and ill send a schematic of typicall window switch wiring folks have done, there are alot of waysto do it.
Dan
Dan
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Originally Posted by jamnut
I never wanted a gauge pod in my car, but it's stories like this that make me think twice about mounting an AF meter & Fuel Pressure Gauge in a pod. I know that AF meter's aren't accurate at all, but I'm sure that spraying a 150 shot & having a fuel noid stick shut would show pretty well even with the cheapest AF meter.
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For those of you who don't want an A/F guage because you think they're not too accurate (I agree with you on that one) you should check out the EGT guages. They have real-time accuracy and you'll know the instant one of your solenoids sticks open/closed.
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Originally Posted by KingCrapBox
For those of you who don't want an A/F guage because you think they're not too accurate (I agree with you on that one) you should check out the EGT guages. They have real-time accuracy and you'll know the instant one of your solenoids sticks open/closed.
Is it worth spending the $500 for a wideband so you can be within 0.1 accuracy?
I mean, if you have no fuel at all, it will show up on a "cheap" $80 A/F ratio gauge won't it?
If you're A/F ratio is 12.5:1 then all of a sudden it goes to 15:1, it won't show up on the "cheap" A/F ratio? Are they that inaccurate?
I just want something to tell me I'm way lean and shut off the nitrous.
I understand for tuning, 0.5 makes a big difference.
What about us guys that just use the spray for a little fun and just don't want to blow their engines up?
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Is it possible to not get it to shut off for an overly rich condition? I would like to be well below 12.5:1 while spraying. On a side note I found metal specs stuck the the oil dipstick, it looks like glitter. Hopefully there is no larger shaving in the oil pan.
EDIT: Just talked to TNT, they make two rebuild kits. One has seals that hold up better when used with ethonol & nitro methane. Though you guys might be intrested in that.
EDIT: Just talked to TNT, they make two rebuild kits. One has seals that hold up better when used with ethonol & nitro methane. Though you guys might be intrested in that.
Sorry to hear about the metal specs.Hopefully it won't be too bad.
Thanks for the rebuild kit information.
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Chington, an Air Fuel ration gauge is as acurate as the O2's in the car. You can't tune with one but if the O2s take a dive you'll know it. You can even have Autometer calibrate it to what ever you want but it's not nessary. My old Autometer would be about 1-2 bars in the green (rich) at .900-.915mv, it would drop into yellow (stoich) at about .870mv, I never went lean with it but I imagine it would drop in the red when the O2s go mid .700s. A wide band is a good investment for tuning but it might be alittle over kill if your just trying to get an idea of what the car is doing during a nitrous run.
Chad the car seems to be fine, still hasn't burned any oil and perfomance is great, the oil filter has picked up all the little metal specs so I don't even think I'm going to rush to change the oil. My rebuild kit came this afternoon so I'm going to spray the car tommorrow and see what it does. Hopefully it won't turn into an expensive day.
Pic of the plunger seal. Thing was really swollen.
Chad the car seems to be fine, still hasn't burned any oil and perfomance is great, the oil filter has picked up all the little metal specs so I don't even think I'm going to rush to change the oil. My rebuild kit came this afternoon so I'm going to spray the car tommorrow and see what it does. Hopefully it won't turn into an expensive day.
Pic of the plunger seal. Thing was really swollen.
![](http://nitrousfedmuscle.com/images/plunger.jpg)
Last edited by GM Muscle; 07-09-2004 at 11:55 AM.
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The O2 sensors in you car are accurate, but only in a very narrow range (around 14.7:1) : hence "narrowband" o2. They are used for the sole purpose of fine-tuning the A/F ratio during part throttle or closed loop operation (the AF is optimal at 14.7:1 during part throttle.) 14.7:1 is yellow on an A/F gauge. When I was on the dyno and my fuel noid didn't come on, the A/F SHOT up in a parabolic path to about 17:1 in under a second before I got out of it. The gauge read full lean, so it worked just as I wanted it to. You can tune a tad bit with the A/F gauge, but only qualitatively, meaning that if you just want the car to be more rich, you can tell if your adjustment did that on the A/F gauge based on where it was previously compared to now, but you cannot tell how much richer you actually are, only that you are more rich than before.
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Originally Posted by LittleDonny
The O2 sensors in you car are accurate, but only in a very narrow range (around 14.7:1) : hence "narrowband" o2. They are used for the sole purpose of fine-tuning the A/F ratio during part throttle or closed loop operation (the AF is optimal at 14.7:1 during part throttle.) 14.7:1 is yellow on an A/F gauge. When I was on the dyno and my fuel noid didn't come on, the A/F SHOT up in a parabolic path to about 17:1 in under a second before I got out of it. The gauge read full lean, so it worked just as I wanted it to. You can tune a tad bit with the A/F gauge, but only qualitatively, meaning that if you just want the car to be more rich, you can tell if your adjustment did that on the A/F gauge based on where it was previously compared to now, but you cannot tell how much richer you actually are, only that you are more rich than before.
What kind of a/f guage are you using?
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Hey DynoTune Dan, even though the price is right on the nitrous A/F switch, I'm sure you could probably get a ton of people to buy one if you did a sale on it. Or a group buy, just thought I'd throw the idea out there. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
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Yea, I've been back up and running for quet sometime now. I've run atleast 100lbs. of nitrous throught the car since it happened and the car has no oil consumption issues and still makes plenty of power so I didn't bother to do a leak down test or check compression. I also strained the oil and didn't find anything unusual. I have bunch of parts to put in the car for the 22nd but nothing is here yet, I'm going to have to bust *** next week.