Nitrous Setup
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On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Cullman, Alabama
Nitrous Setup Okay so I've read on the forums and it's hard to find anyone with a setup like I am installing this weekend and I need some opinions. I have the Dynotune wet kit (250 solenoids) along with the NOS mini progressive controller and LNC2000. The NOS controller has a WOT/window switch built in as well. I will also be ordering the PSN-1 A/F gauge with the automatic lean/low bottle pressure cutoff along with a trans temp and fuel pressure gauge but there is a big street car race happening this weekend and I don't have those gauges yet. My car is cam/stall/3.73/headers/lid/(390whp) and this past weekend I installed the 255lph Racetronix pump with hotwire kit. I'm wanting to start with 100 shot and ramp it in depending on how the track holds it. I may go up to a 150 shot if needed. So with all that being said, is the LNC2000 sufficient enough to safely spray? I've always thought that all that is needed is a strong enough fuel pump, colder plugs, and a method of pulling timing. Would it be okay to do the first nitrous pull with 4 degrees pulled on a 100 shot and then go to around 6 for the 150? If anyone is running a setup like this, please chime in with what size jets you are running for a 100 shot and/or a 150 shot. I know that plugs tell the tale but I just want a baseline where to start so that I'm not blindly pulling timing or changing jets.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Cullman, Alabama
So if I use BR7's and pull 6 degrees, could I drive to the track with those new plugs, then swap one out right before I make my first pass and cut it off as I cross the line and check that one plug and get an accurate reading? I've read a lot about reading plugs and it seems damn near impossible for me to drive to the track and do a full plug swap, then roll it to the starting line, make a pass, cut it off at the finish line, and check all the plugs. It's hard enough to change all of them when the car is cold lol
Honestly you don't need to all that. Here's what i've been doing for the last few years and I haven't had any problems...BR7's gapped to .030", good n/a and nitrous tune with with 6 degrees pulled on the 150 shot. A nitrous, fuel, and AFR gauge with other proper nitrous accessories. I read a couple plugs once a year, and they've always been fine. I got 3 years out of my last set before I decided to change them. Constantly reading plugs is great and all but largely unnecessary for a street car that goes to the track a couple times a year running a small shot of nitrous. Others may not agree, but this has worked fine for me
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 159
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From: Cullman, Alabama
Honestly you don't need to all that. Here's what i've been doing for the last few years and I haven't had any problems...BR7's gapped to .030", good n/a and nitrous tune with with 6 degrees pulled on the 150 shot. A nitrous, fuel, and AFR gauge with other proper nitrous accessories. I read a couple plugs once a year, and they've always been fine. I got 3 years out of my last set before I decided to change them. Constantly reading plugs is great and all but largely unnecessary for a street car that goes to the track a couple times a year running a small shot of nitrous. Others may not agree, but this has worked fine for me
No. Tune it at the track. You need to learn how to do this the right way. Get a 62 jet (150 shot) for nitrous and a 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38 for fine tuning the fuel side. Spend a hundred bucks on 6 sets of BR7EF plugs. Gap them all to .030. Buy an extra set of plug wires because you will probably break a few swapping plugs. Get a water spray bottle or your going to burn the **** out of yourself swapping plugs after runs. By the way, you'll gain a whole new appreciation for ceramic coated headers if you're a nitrous junkie.
1) Start with a 62 nitrous jet and a 35 fuel jet. Go up or down on the fuel jet to adjust AFR.
2) Everyone's combo is different. Play it safe. Pull 3 degrees per 50hp to start. Pull 9 degrees of timing on a 150 shot. You can easily put timing back. Rebuilding a motor.......not so cheap or easy.
1) Start with a 62 nitrous jet and a 35 fuel jet. Go up or down on the fuel jet to adjust AFR.
2) Everyone's combo is different. Play it safe. Pull 3 degrees per 50hp to start. Pull 9 degrees of timing on a 150 shot. You can easily put timing back. Rebuilding a motor.......not so cheap or easy.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 159
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From: Cullman, Alabama
No. Tune it at the track. You need to learn how to do this the right way. Get a 62 jet (150 shot) for nitrous and a 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38 for fine tuning the fuel side. Spend a hundred bucks on 6 sets of BR7EF plugs. Gap them all to .030. Buy an extra set of plug wires because you will probably break a few swapping plugs. Get a water spray bottle or your going to burn the **** out of yourself swapping plugs after runs. By the way, you'll gain a whole new appreciation for ceramic coated headers if you're a nitrous junkie.
1) Start with a 62 nitrous jet and a 35 fuel jet. Go up or down on the fuel jet to adjust AFR.
2) Everyone's combo is different. Play it safe. Pull 3 degrees per 50hp to start. Pull 9 degrees of timing on a 150 shot. You can easily put timing back. Rebuilding a motor.......not so cheap or easy.
1) Start with a 62 nitrous jet and a 35 fuel jet. Go up or down on the fuel jet to adjust AFR.
2) Everyone's combo is different. Play it safe. Pull 3 degrees per 50hp to start. Pull 9 degrees of timing on a 150 shot. You can easily put timing back. Rebuilding a motor.......not so cheap or easy.
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Like mentioned above tuning on the street or track is best. Basically your nitrous tune is the same as your n/a tune, but with the fine tuning coming from playing with different fuel jets to get the desired a AFR. And of course pulling the desired amount of timing as well
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 159
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From: Cullman, Alabama
Like mentioned above tuning on the street or track is best. Basically your nitrous tune is the same as your n/a tune, but with the fine tuning coming from playing with different fuel jets to get the desired a AFR. And of course pulling the desired amount of timing as well
As far as the jets go, how am I supposed to know where to start? I want to spray with either a 57 or 62 nitrous jet. I currently have a limited number of jets lol but if it's too rich or lean and I'm out of jets then I won't spray it until I have more jets. Here are the jets I currently have: 24, 28, 30, 32, 42, 46, 48, 57, 62
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 159
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From: Cullman, Alabama
In my case I run a 62 nitrous and 31 fuel jet. Basically find what is the re commended fuel jet for that particular nitrous jet, then buy a few sizes above and below that. For example if your nitrous company says a 33 fuel jet for a 62 nitrous jet is their recommendation, then I'd get maybe like 28,29,30,31,32,33,34,35, and 36 jets. This way you can fine tune it, and you know one of those will work since it covers the necessary range of where it likely fall. In this case i would start with the 36 and work down. Make sense?