I have it jetted for a 150 but only wanted to spray a 100 shot for now so I had it turned down on the NOS mini to 65% with 0 ramp. I thought it might have been getting too much fuel or something off the hit so I then pulled it back to 25%-85% over a 3 second ramp. I haven't tried giving it the full 150 shot yet and I'm nervous to since it's not acting right on anything I've tried. I know its spraying because I tested it yesterday before I went out and tried these different methods. I unhooked the nozzle and the fuel and nitrous lines from the nozzle and they were both working perfect

 

When and who tuned the car last?

 

Lane Culver. I had him turn the shift points up about 2 months ago. I went from a TR6 to a BR7 plug 3 weeks ago with no issues and then a couple days ago it started acting funny with the studderingat low RPM. My plug wires will be here tomorrow. They're due for a change but if that doesn't fix it then I'm going to swap plugs again I guess

 

I've never had the car tuned for nitrous. It's on a motor tune but of course I use the LNC to pull timing. I have it set to pull 4* for a 100 shot

 

are u sure the lnc is pulling timing?? try unhooking the nitrous relay and set the lnc to full timing. Make a hit as if u were spraying and see if u can feel the timing being pulled.

Has it ran great before with the same setup on nitrous? or is this a new setup?

 

I'm not sure if that would work or not since everything is wired together. I'm about to post the wiring diagram I used minus the bottle heater and purge. Its definitely pulling timing. It flashes as it should when I arm it and I know for a fact its plugged into the coil packs correctly lol. This is my first time ever spraying. It ran great on motor, and still does. I've seen where lots of people have had problems with #7 fouling out so I'm about to check that. I've been letting my car cool down since getting off work. Lane tuned it with TR6's in it. I don't believe that should make a difference as far as tuning goes but I may take it back to him in the near future to have him tweak it for nitrous

 

This is the wiring diagram I used. Everything works as it should. I believe it is either a plug or a bad plug wire causing this issue. It may be misfiring under WOT on motor but just gets amplified when I spray it. It pulls hard on motor though

 

I started pulling the driver side plugs and the #4 plug was loose and the #7 plug wire wasn't all the way on so I fixed that issue. I went and tested the nitrous again and the car is still studdering like it used to. I hope new wires and/or plugs fixes it, but on the nitrous it pulls hard as hell. Didn't sputter or anything until the bottle got low. I actually claimed my first nitrous victory against a 6th gen auto SS on the highway. I was in 3rd gear and let it take the hit and then I went around it like it was a stock 4.0 V6 Mustang racing an LS1. I was amazed at how hard just a 100 shot hit. I'm hooked on spray hahaha

 

Do you know anyone that could log a full pull for you?
Buy a big box of BR7's (not just 8 of em, as you will inevitably drop one, don't use it). Gap to .032
Hopefully it is just plugs and wires.

 

I'm sure that Cylde would log a run for me. I gapped these to .036. Would gapping them to .032 even make a difference? I'm pretty sure it's either plugs or wires due to the fact that it only happens sometimes and not 100% of the time

 

I doubt it would make a difference or be the issue but, .032 is what most run (including myself, for years on a 150-175 shot).

 

Next time I swap them I'll gap them at .032. Does a tighter gap help from having detonation? What exactly does that do?

 

Yeah, I copied this but it explains it better than I can:
Spark plug electrode gap plays an important role in how well the flame core (spark) ignites the air-fuel mixture. The correct amount of gap is needed in order to have a reliable and accurate flame core between the spark plugs center electrode and ground electrode, which ignites the surrounding air-fuel mixture.
Modified engines with higher cylinder pressures will typically require a smaller electrode gap to ensure ignitability, as the voltage requirement at the electrode gap is increased due to higher combustion pressures. The larger the gap is, the greater the demand will be from the coil and ignition system, eventually exceeding the ignition system’s ability. The ignition system and electrode gap are dependent on one another in order to maintain a strong flame core. If the electrode gap is too small, the electrodes will absorb the flame core’s heat, which will extinguish the flame core and prevent combustion.

 

I gapped mine at .030 on the 150 shot. Certainly wouldnt gurt to try it

 

I now I have a new problem... my bottle is empty

 

Well hopefully the refill station isn't to far away lol

 

It's being a pain in the *** to find a refiller snd I work until 7 so everywhere that does refill them closes at 5 unfortunately

 

Yeah that sucks. I got lucky with a place 10 miles from me that goes for $4 per lb. Try getting the significant other and/or family or friends to get it filled for you lol

 

I may just have to do that hahaha

 

Try angus racing