I get off work at 7 everyday or I would

 

I changed plug wires and there's no more stuttering whatsoever so I found my problem

 

Good deal, man! Gotta make you feel a lot better!

 

Hi ALL, the RagTop "tech" is VERY BAD with concern to a SMALL Spark Plug GAP.
SURE, the ignition coil requires an amount of voltage to establish the ARC.
The HEAT of compression (fuel/air heating) is the major concern needed for the start of combustion.

The lack of use of Dielectric Grease is what caused the OP's Spark Plug wires to FAIL.
AS STATED, the Spark Plug Boot will have internal carbon tracks caused by the Arc Over.

The SMALL Spark Plug Gap allows for a MUCH LONGER coil energy release, the Firing Line, LONGER than the best time for quality combustion. (RPM Based)
The LARGE Spark Plug Gap allows for a MUCH SHORTER coil energy release, the Firing Line, CORRECT for the best quality combustion. (RPM Based)

The measurement term "ARC DURATION" is a common value provided by ignition coil manufactures.
The piston position is measures in degrees with the time (RPM/Arc Duration) of 36 degrees of Arc Duration as best. (Recardo)
The Spark Plug Gap/Wire Resistance per foot is a simple item to control at little cost.

THUS it is of little help to continue to light a fire AFTER the fire is at max heat.

I ONLY PRAY the OP used a Dielectric Grease on his new boots.

Lance

 

I don't see how plug wires could have fixed this issue. If it had bad wires it would run the same without nitrous. I'm wondering if your old nitrous bottle fill wasn't right?? Did u change plug wires as well as the new nitrous refill?

 

It started acting weird before I ever tried to spray. All is good now. Maybe one of the plug wires weren't on all the way or something. The #8 plug wire seemed to not be on as well as the others. I did not use dielectric grease. I never have in any of my vehicles and don't see the use in it. I got both bottles filled today and have already made 2 pulls from 60-120 and it pulls harder than ever on only a 100 shot. Runs perfect. I'm going to install the PSN-1 A/F gauge this weekend.

 

Oh yeah! Made me feel a ton better!

 

I've got to adjust my window switch so it doesn't cut out as much at the top of 2nd gear. It came on for a split second in 2nd gear but came on hard after the shift to 3rd. This is with 62N and 32F jets with the NOS mini set at 65% with 0 ramp and 4* pulled with LNC2000 so it's a little less than a 100 shot. Click the link or download the video to view.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_-3...ew?usp=sharing

 

What do you mean about the window switch cutting out? It should be the same in every gear?

 

Yes I know. It's set at 6500 and my shifts are at 6750 so from 70-80, it's out of the window so it's not spraying at the top of 2nd gear. I'm going to turn it up to 6700. My rev limiter is at 6900 so I'll be okay. It's crazy at how slow these tachs are after 6400. I can chart 6750 shift point all day on Torque Pro but the tach only reads about 6500 at the shifts

 

Agh I got ya. Yea it's pretty aggravating to feel the car nose over lol

 

Spray through the shift, thank me later.

 

I bumped it up to 6700 and it feels like it never stops pulling

 

If your happy, that's fine. I did notice a et difference leaving it all in. I was turning off just prior to shifts until I just said screw it. If you tranny is built it is no problem. I'm all in out of the hole all the way to the stripe on a 150 shot. 9.91 @136

 

Unfortunately I'm on a stock trans right now. All I have in the trans is a deep psn, cooler, and a Yank PAS3800. That's an impressive time for a 150 shot!! What all do you have done to the car??

 

1998 T/A. SBE iron 6.0, cam, L92 heads, 4L60, S60 w/3.54 gears, and some weight reduction.

 

That's awesome man. Who built the trans?

 

Performabuilt Level 2+
1.34 60' off the footbrake.

 

Damn that's rolling out. How much does that build from them cost? I've looked into having my trans built before and I've heard good things about Performabuilt

 

http://www.performabuilt.com/level-2.html