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Gotta admit I have never seen cardboard fall out of a driveshaft before...
Spun hard two passes, only resulting in a 11.42 and 11.44 at 123 and 124mph, then decided for my last attempt, I'd add 50 more and footbrake it, instead of trying the transbrake again...
Didn't quite work out for me...although to my amazement, the stock 10 bolt outlasted the driveshaft with all I could throw at it this year...
Interesting mindset lol, "200 shot blows the tires off. Lets try a 250". What's the rest of the set up look like?
LOL...Good point...1st two attempts were off the transbrake...and somehow, some way, water was put on track by previous cars, both times. You know you're in trouble when they get the mop and big propane torch out...
3rd pass, I was able to get in right behind the radial cars there testing...they do a special radial prep for them, and obviously it still was working...
I footbraked it too, on 3rd pass, so as not to shock the old turd too bad.
Setup is a previously PTE 76/75 rear mount turboed car, mix & matched, hodge podged of a non-nitrous combo...custom Bullet turbo cam, too tight of a converter, too big for N/A, injectors, etc,...I've been slowly but surely converting it back to a more matched combo since I bracket race it N/A, and only use the nitrous for fun at test & tunes or on the street.
Yeah carboard tubes are used to align the shaft tube until it is tacked well enough to weld it up.
Gotcha. I assumed it was for some sort of noise reduction or something like that.
The only plus to this, is now I get to move forward with the 9" swap, since I see no point in having a driveshaft made, only to then blow the 7.5 rear...which it WILL do as part of Murphy's Law...lol. Right now, somebody will be getting a pretty badass (if there is such a thing) stock rear IMO...
Ordered myself a nice Trick Chassis 9" and as soon as its swapped in, I'll be measuring for a new custom driveshaft....the cardboard inside seems stronger than the aluminum driveshaft, lol
Ordered myself a nice Trick Chassis 9" and as soon as its swapped in, I'll be measuring for a new custom driveshaft....the cardboard inside seems stronger than the aluminum driveshaft, lol
38 inches is pretty common length for an Fbody driveshaft for a 9 inch. That's weld to weld of the tube section
38 inches is pretty common length for an Fbody driveshaft for a 9 inch. That's weld to weld of the tube section
Thanks for that.
I just missed out on a fairly local, carbon fiber one for an F body with 4L80E and 9" (exactly what I need) a few days ago...$450 for a $1200 part...instead, I'll be paying roughly the same amount for a steel one. But the guy who makes them around the corner from my work, does a great job, so enough tears, lol
I was really surprised at how light and flimsy the aluminum one that I destroyed, appears to be.
Also you might want to try perryhall power on rt.40 for a steel drive shaft.
Cecil County.
Yes, Ron is literally right around the corner from where I work. Just waiting on my 9" axles and housing package. Figured there was no sense in spending $400 or so on a driveshaft for the old 10 bolt, when a 9" was planned for the winter anyway. Kinda worked out...plus, who ever buys this stock rear is getting one that is pretty damn stout, IMO.
Oh, it was definitely singing...
and probably begging for mercy
I race with shifter in DRIVE, letting ECM do the shifting....normally at 5600-5900 rpms...this was from datalog, in 1st gear, a split second before the 1-2 shift...
Hit 103MPH (6800+ rpm) in 2nd gear...
Took a minute for the driveshaft to stop spinning, LOL...can't believe there's no floor damage, aside from one "ding" and some paint scratched up
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3885# Trans Am + 250 shot = 
