Dry Nitrous SD tune
#1
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
Dry Nitrous SD tune
Hey Guys...I'm wanting to use the IAT tricker with HP tuners when spraying.
Going to use the IAT spark table for timing retard
Then use the PE vs IAT adder for extra fuel
Does anyone know a good way to calculate the amount of PE adder to start with? Or does anyone have some experience they can add to start on the right foot?
Or...is there a better table to use instead of the PE vs IAT adder?
Figured I'd start with a 50 and guess at the fuel...then adjust as we go.
Get the 50 shot straightened out and move to a 75...figure that out and move up again...so on and so forth just taking baby steps.
setup is:
SBE LS1
cometic .045 MLS
799 heads unported, milled .030
LS6 intake
230/232 .600/.600 112+3 cam
4000 stall 4l60e car
42 lb injectors
255 hotwired fuel pump
3.23 10 bolt
275/60r16 M&H radial (probably going to a 275-15 next summer)
Going to use the IAT spark table for timing retard
Then use the PE vs IAT adder for extra fuel
Does anyone know a good way to calculate the amount of PE adder to start with? Or does anyone have some experience they can add to start on the right foot?
Or...is there a better table to use instead of the PE vs IAT adder?
Figured I'd start with a 50 and guess at the fuel...then adjust as we go.
Get the 50 shot straightened out and move to a 75...figure that out and move up again...so on and so forth just taking baby steps.
setup is:
SBE LS1
cometic .045 MLS
799 heads unported, milled .030
LS6 intake
230/232 .600/.600 112+3 cam
4000 stall 4l60e car
42 lb injectors
255 hotwired fuel pump
3.23 10 bolt
275/60r16 M&H radial (probably going to a 275-15 next summer)
#2
First thing, SD can be tricky when doing this mod as the computer relies heavily on the IAT to make WOT fueling adjustments. The ECT might be a better option if you set up the relay and resistor to trick the computer to go cold on the coolant temp, instead of hot, resulting in REP. Another option, is using the traction control system. It require grounding a certain pin on the ecm through a switch, but that could be easy as you can just ground it out through your arming switch by flipping a relay.
Second, I can't tell you how much fuel you will need to add per shot size, but this is where you will need to read the plugs and determine how much more/less is necessary. The plugs tell you all, remember that. A wideband can get you in the ballpark, but the plugs will tell you exactly what the engine wants. Are you just running 93 or a mix of 93/110/c16..etc.
Second, I can't tell you how much fuel you will need to add per shot size, but this is where you will need to read the plugs and determine how much more/less is necessary. The plugs tell you all, remember that. A wideband can get you in the ballpark, but the plugs will tell you exactly what the engine wants. Are you just running 93 or a mix of 93/110/c16..etc.
#3
To add to the TCS method...
You would set a toggle switch or relay trigger off of your arming switch for the nitrous to ground pin 53 on the red pcm connector. Once it grounds that circuit out, then it will rely on this table shown below to retard timing.
Now, there is a timer for this system which is below on the main page below. The max timer setting is 5s stock, you would need to set that to 410s which is max for the system, assuming you wouldn't need the nitrous to be on for almost 7 minutes.
You would set a toggle switch or relay trigger off of your arming switch for the nitrous to ground pin 53 on the red pcm connector. Once it grounds that circuit out, then it will rely on this table shown below to retard timing.
Now, there is a timer for this system which is below on the main page below. The max timer setting is 5s stock, you would need to set that to 410s which is max for the system, assuming you wouldn't need the nitrous to be on for almost 7 minutes.
#4
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
Awesome thanks for that input!
I like how easy it is to pull vs rpm with that table!
I was planning on using the IAT to add fuel because the computer does rely so heavily upon it to make fueling changes.
I have an 02 camaro so I believe the "ASR" disable switch controls the signal (well not directly...the ABS module is the real player) to pin 53 on the red...so I guess I could just snip the wire to the ABS module and then have my own trigger wire go to red pin 53
I like how easy it is to pull vs rpm with that table!
I was planning on using the IAT to add fuel because the computer does rely so heavily upon it to make fueling changes.
I have an 02 camaro so I believe the "ASR" disable switch controls the signal (well not directly...the ABS module is the real player) to pin 53 on the red...so I guess I could just snip the wire to the ABS module and then have my own trigger wire go to red pin 53
#5
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
While it is technically possible to do a dry shot on an SD tune, It is about the most fucktarded thing I have ever heard of. I cannot think of even one possible reason why this would be the best way to go in any scenario. Could somebody please give me even one legitimate reason a person would do this? I am really curious.
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (32)
To add to the TCS method...
You would set a toggle switch or relay trigger off of your arming switch for the nitrous to ground pin 53 on the red pcm connector. Once it grounds that circuit out, then it will rely on this table shown below to retard timing.
Now, there is a timer for this system which is below on the main page below. The max timer setting is 5s stock, you would need to set that to 410s which is max for the system, assuming you wouldn't need the nitrous to be on for almost 7 minutes.
You would set a toggle switch or relay trigger off of your arming switch for the nitrous to ground pin 53 on the red pcm connector. Once it grounds that circuit out, then it will rely on this table shown below to retard timing.
Now, there is a timer for this system which is below on the main page below. The max timer setting is 5s stock, you would need to set that to 410s which is max for the system, assuming you wouldn't need the nitrous to be on for almost 7 minutes.
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rob_mcarthur (09-27-2019)
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#8
#12
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
While it is technically possible to do a dry shot on an SD tune, It is about the most fucktarded thing I have ever heard of. I cannot think of even one possible reason why this would be the best way to go in any scenario. Could somebody please give me even one legitimate reason a person would do this? I am really curious.
With a SD tune, you trick the IAT sensor, then you can use the fuel adder tables to add the amount of fuel you need...and you can use the IAT spark adjuster table to change your ignition advance if you need it.
Why would you say it is "fucktarded"? it's the same way holley, or other aftermarket ecu's do it...they use a fuel adder table...and a spark adder (negative add means pull) table to do dry nitrous tuning.
This is as close as you can get to that method on the stock ecu.
what would your "non-fucktarded" idea be?
#13
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Well...when you spray before the maf, you're counting on the nitrous to cool the resistor wires on the MAF effectively maxing (or nearly maxing) it out. Then you adjust the tune for the appropriate amount of fuel to add.
With a SD tune, you trick the IAT sensor, then you can use the fuel adder tables to add the amount of fuel you need...and you can use the IAT spark adjuster table to change your ignition advance if you need it.
Why would you say it is "fucktarded"? it's the same way holley, or other aftermarket ecu's do it...they use a fuel adder table...and a spark adder (negative add means pull) table to do dry nitrous tuning.
This is as close as you can get to that method on the stock ecu.
what would your "non-fucktarded" idea be?
With a SD tune, you trick the IAT sensor, then you can use the fuel adder tables to add the amount of fuel you need...and you can use the IAT spark adjuster table to change your ignition advance if you need it.
Why would you say it is "fucktarded"? it's the same way holley, or other aftermarket ecu's do it...they use a fuel adder table...and a spark adder (negative add means pull) table to do dry nitrous tuning.
This is as close as you can get to that method on the stock ecu.
what would your "non-fucktarded" idea be?
#14
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
Dry shot before the maf is not introducing more airflow. At least not as the MAF is intended to see airflow.
Nitrous oxide is turning from a liquid to a gas before the maf...it behaves VERY differently than normal atmosphere moving across the MAF...not at ALL how the software intended.
I guess I'll just wait for someone else to answer and help rather than argue with you.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, I'm still going to try the SD method.
Nitrous oxide is turning from a liquid to a gas before the maf...it behaves VERY differently than normal atmosphere moving across the MAF...not at ALL how the software intended.
I guess I'll just wait for someone else to answer and help rather than argue with you.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, I'm still going to try the SD method.
#15
TECH Senior Member
Actually the pre-MAF dry shot DECREASES airflow by displacing some of the air that would normally be going thru the MAF. So calibration will be off.
#17
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
#18
I ran my nitrous setup like this for a year with no issues. Got tired of filling bottles so I went turbo.
We added, roughly, 5% fuel per 50 shot of nitrous. I was running ID1000 injectors, Walbro 450, e85 and 427ci.
We added, roughly, 5% fuel per 50 shot of nitrous. I was running ID1000 injectors, Walbro 450, e85 and 427ci.
#20
5% per 50 shot. THAT's the type of ballpark I was hoping to see! Just a starting point.
Which table did you use to add fuel with @jayyyw ?? Did you do it via the IAT table?
Which table did you use to add fuel with @jayyyw ?? Did you do it via the IAT table?