Myth or fact? Nitrous vs. LT's
Myth or fact? Nitrous vs. LT's Only a thousand dollars budgeted to spend ... with the mods in my sig, where's the money best spent? Nitrous or LT's? I've heard Nitrous is good with my shorty header and TR220/220 .553/.553 112 LSA cam setup. 
to do nitrous right... Heater, Opener, Purge, Wiring, Window Switch, Kit... you will easily hit 1000$+ and still have to pay for bottle fills typically 40-60$ a week if you use it a lot. Nitrous will make a ton more power over LTs but it is an endless pit of money if u use it a lot. but you tax your fuel system with anything over 100hp shot. If you want to not have to keep dropin money go with LTs... your car is more likely incure damage with nitrous than Lts thats for sure... lean a cyl out someone or not take safety precautions you will need a new budget.
Originally Posted by T/A Medic
to do nitrous right... Heater, Opener, Purge, Wiring, Window Switch, Kit... you will easily hit 1000$+ and still have to pay for bottle fills typically 40-60$ a week if you use it a lot. Nitrous will make a ton more power over LTs but it is an endless pit of money if u use it a lot. but you tax your fuel system with anything over 100hp shot. If you want to not have to keep dropin money go with LTs... your car is more likely incure damage with nitrous than Lts thats for sure... lean a cyl out someone or not take safety precautions you will need a new budget.
Dave
maybe you read it wrong, i was not pushing him away from nitrous... just giving him some experience and knowledge, tips and advice. Basically we said the same thing just in a different way 
Do the nitrous, but plan on spending a little over $1000 if you wanna do it right. More bang per buck with using squeeze.
Just remember that nitrous is a living breathing creature that needs to eat. At first it just eats nitrous and fuel, but eventually it will eat your transmission, your engine, and eventually (after the addiction has set in) every damn spare dollar you can come up with!!!
Look at my signature. I originally wanted a low 12 second car....next stop is low 9 for me.
Just remember that nitrous is a living breathing creature that needs to eat. At first it just eats nitrous and fuel, but eventually it will eat your transmission, your engine, and eventually (after the addiction has set in) every damn spare dollar you can come up with!!!
Look at my signature. I originally wanted a low 12 second car....next stop is low 9 for me.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
You can get both worlds if you ask me.
Safest complete kit for an A4, nothing else to buy is the NOS 5177 dry kit. It's all in there. around $550 (maybe cheaper if you look around). I was shooting all last year and look at my best run last April before headers (MAC)
Then you are left with $450 witch is enough to get a set of coated Pacesetters+ORY. (make sure you get the NEW ones)
You'll get a few comments on "not dry, go wet"
And my answer to that is, you can always make your kit a dual stage dry/wet in the future (That is what I'll do after my H/C is installed)
Safest complete kit for an A4, nothing else to buy is the NOS 5177 dry kit. It's all in there. around $550 (maybe cheaper if you look around). I was shooting all last year and look at my best run last April before headers (MAC)
Then you are left with $450 witch is enough to get a set of coated Pacesetters+ORY. (make sure you get the NEW ones)
You'll get a few comments on "not dry, go wet"
And my answer to that is, you can always make your kit a dual stage dry/wet in the future (That is what I'll do after my H/C is installed)
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
we can hook you up with a complete package for under $800.00 and its all the exact same stuff as a NOS wet kit. NX, NOS, ZEX, Cold Fusion we all buy from the same manufacturers! Its a fact. The only difference is the stickers on the products and the advertising $$$$ spent is what causes the prices to go up. We do not spend as much on advertising so we can keep the price more affordible for an "as good" or "better" product! nOW CUSTOMER SERVICE! COLD FUSION NITROUS SYSTEMS HAS THE BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE DEPT BAR NON. THERE IS ALWAYS SOMEONE ON CALL THAT KNOWS THERE STUFF! www.coldfusionnitrous.com
What's the install time? NOS 5177 dry kit was said to be under $600 with WOT switch, bottle, guage, and all installation parts ... is this really the best kit for the money?
What would be the degree of diffuculty for installing a dry kit? I still may go with a wet direct-port system, but, would I need to drill my air intake? I need more information form some of you 'juicers'.
What would be the degree of diffuculty for installing a dry kit? I still may go with a wet direct-port system, but, would I need to drill my air intake? I need more information form some of you 'juicers'.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Direct port Noszle fits under the injectors and is for advanced nitrous use.
My advice is do a lot of reading about nitrous. It is not just the matter of pushing a switch. You need to be very knowledgeable in tuning, always monitoring AFR and timing.
NOS 5177 is controled by your MAF which decides to adjust fuel and timing accordingly. The only thing is you need to descreen your MAF. I see you got 28.8's so that is covered. Even if your pump takes a crap the FPSV will then shut the system automaticaly. It is a great entry level system. There is even a wet coversion kit for about $250 if you decide to go wet in the future.
Nitrous is addictive and once you shoot 100, you will want 125 then 150 and so on.
When at a small shot the chances of destroying your engine are less but as you climb up the power ladder, it is absolutely necessary that you understand the tuning parameters of N2O usage.
Don't take this the wrong way, it is just an analogy: A baby doesn't learn to run before it learns to walk.
I hope you study this matter well and make the right decisions.
My advice is do a lot of reading about nitrous. It is not just the matter of pushing a switch. You need to be very knowledgeable in tuning, always monitoring AFR and timing.
NOS 5177 is controled by your MAF which decides to adjust fuel and timing accordingly. The only thing is you need to descreen your MAF. I see you got 28.8's so that is covered. Even if your pump takes a crap the FPSV will then shut the system automaticaly. It is a great entry level system. There is even a wet coversion kit for about $250 if you decide to go wet in the future.
Nitrous is addictive and once you shoot 100, you will want 125 then 150 and so on.
When at a small shot the chances of destroying your engine are less but as you climb up the power ladder, it is absolutely necessary that you understand the tuning parameters of N2O usage.
Don't take this the wrong way, it is just an analogy: A baby doesn't learn to run before it learns to walk.
I hope you study this matter well and make the right decisions.
Thanks man. That was the sort of guidance I need ... dry it will be. Maybe I can just start off with an adjustable 250 shot and start out with it set to 75 ... to be safe. Or would it be best if I just start off with a 75 shot and use it for a few months and upgrade it to a 100, then 125, then 150 over time. Is it the nozzle width that makes it a certain amount of power?
I'll do a lot of reading and research, as you have suggested. Thanks a LOT for taking the time to explain the differences and for your advice, as well.
I'll do a lot of reading and research, as you have suggested. Thanks a LOT for taking the time to explain the differences and for your advice, as well.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Originally Posted by JEB99TA
Thanks man. That was the sort of guidance I need ... dry it will be.
Maybe I can just start off with an adjustable 250 shot and start out with it set to 75 ... to be safe. Or would it be best if I just start off with a 75 shot and use it for a few months and upgrade it to a 100, then 125, then 150 over time. Is it the nozzle width that makes it a certain amount of power?
I'll do a lot of reading and research, as you have suggested. Thanks a LOT for taking the time to explain the differences and for your advice, as well.
Check out our dry kit.I beleive it is a better kit than the NOS dry kit.As for a wet kit you cant go wrong with a name brand company like NX.They will still be aroiund in the future when you need service on their lifetime warrenty solenoids.
Dave
Dave