LOL, How the **** do you wire up a solenoid wrong? One's hot and one is ground.

 

LOL. LOL. that explains alot. Poor ground, poor conections. THINK ABOUT IT? If you think that you can have poor conections and it will not cause solenoid failure you need a quick wiring lesson. I suggest you think about it and maybe it will come to you. If not you are more than welcome to call. have a good one.

 

poor ground would cause it to either not work or get the wires hot which might cause a failure of a different kind. He said he had FAILURE (noid collapse) I guess meaning plunger failure. TO ME this has nothing to do with wiring. A lil comprehension lesson is what you might need. I need no wiring lesson as I have installed more nitrous kits on more variety of cars than most people in this forum.
No offense implied in my post man, just thought it was funny.


On another note, I've been trying to find info on bottle heaters as there seems to be a difference in wattage in some brands vs. others. So far, I've seen people state that the NOS and your heaters are 300 watts and NX and a few others are 240. Is this true?

 

just because you have installed alot of nitrous kits doesnt mean you know about EP (electronics principals) you just know how to install which if you have done alot your probably good at it. as far as a bad ground it can do alot of things it can cause a noid to cut in and out from an inconsistant connection or it can just make it not work. there are numerous things that a bad ground can cause. hell it could have been a bad ground that caused the noid to fail in the first place.

 

NX bottle heaters are 13.8 volt 240 WATTS.
NOS, Eldelbrock, Cold Fusion heaters are 12volt 300 watts

they all get really hot If wired up with a relay. Some times guys wire them up off of a toggle direct and use to small of a gauge wire to flow the current so the heater does not get as hot as it should. I suggest always using the relay as you probably know.

 

I see. I currently have a NX heater setup with the supplied relay and pressure switch. It takes a long time to heat up though. It seems to take longer than my ole NOS heater that used to run in my 68 camaro. I'm just looking into a heater that will heat up faster.

 

Bro, read the guy's post. Did it sound electrical to you? Besides, I was just ****** with Mike by being sarcastic. You also don't know me or my level of "EP".

 

yes it does sound electrical because voltage and current is what make the noid work which is basicly an elecromagnet so if it wasnt the ground then it's bad windings inside the noid. but if you were just messin with mike thats cool then. it just sounded like you were being a dick about him defending his opinion.

 

I was making fun of the fact that his first initial thought was installers fault, which is the case most of the time with companies. No one is compitent enough to install their (meaning any company or manufacturer) **** correctly, yet they are enough to buy their ****. And I know what makes a noid work wise guy. So, I guess you know what happens when a plunger fails or a seal?

 

naw i really dont know what happens i'm just getting into the whole spray scenario. but i'm assuming a lean condition.

all i was saying was that i disagreed with what you were saying about the ground. one thing that i do know is about basic electronics and how stuff like that works, thats it.

 

From what I got from the customers email was that the solenoids just stopped opening or clicking. 99% of the time you lose 2 solenoids at or near the same time is usually a wiring problem. If a solenoid/solenoids have a poor connection, too long of a lead wire, too small gauge wire. The coil begins to try and PULL the current through the restriction. This causes the coil to get HOT and a over heating condition begins. Once a coil has been overheated it can fracture the small portion of the winding and then it will fail to open. Most (and I use that word loosely) guys that have 2 or more solenoids fail at or near the same time just had something wrong! Now about solenoid Plungers. A plunger can: Leak, I.E. Fail to seal. If: trash gets in between the plunger and the seat. You can get trash in the system from: a dirty fill, Using teflon tape on threads instead of teflon paste, cross threading a fitting and metal shavings get in, running the feed line under or through the car body and trash gets pushed into the feed line. ect. Now as far as a manufactures defect. Normally if there is a bad solenoid it will: not work at all day one, fail to seal when you put pressure to it, open only under low pressure. Peter paul Electronics is the largest manufacture of solenoids in the industry. They do provide UL testing on ALL solenoids that leave the factory. When we receive the solenoids we test each solenoid to make sure it is working correctly. As with anything electrical if someone shorts it out or hooks it up wrong it will break. I highly recommend testing and taking your time when it comes to a good quality install. Thanks, mike

 

ok, I'm new to the n2o world and used to be a strict believer of "all throttle, no bottle" horsepower. But now owning a 02 Z28, without alot of money for the extravegant set-ups, I want to use nitrous for some good fun on the track. So far, it sounds as if Cold fusion has a good company. BUT, there are so many new companies coming up through the ranks. for me quality is a must but price is a concern. Overall, I do not need a failing solenoid to blow my motor. I was looking at the Zex system and was wondering about the safety features.
Mike, what is your view on this system?

 

ZEX is a good intro kit. They simply put the solenoids in a plug and play box and it is a little bit easier to install. The kits are good to about 100hp... A little bit more info about Solenoids. Solenoids in a whole are a reliable way to inject nitrous and fuel. If you only need 50-125hp and you would like to keep the risk down. A dry kit is a good intro to the world of nitrous. it is a softer hit than a wet kit and if the solenoid ever did fail it would not cause any damage. Out of every 2000 nitrous solenoids tested we found 1 nitrous solenoid that failed to open. Out of 5000 fuel solenoids we have found 2 that leaked. Those are good #"s. we pulled those solenoids and sent them back. So, If your looking to make some good power with low risk a dry kit is your best option. Then once you feel more comfortable about nitrous you can always upgrade to a wet kit for under an extra $150.00...I hope this helps.

 

do yourself a favor and get a TNT F2 kit. best kit IMO..besides their F4 kit.

 

talking about wiring up solenoids, i have found that it is better to run 2 relays. i usually like to run the second relay (the one that supplies the solenoids with voltage) derectly off the battery. this is how i have always ran my system and have been useing the same 2 NOS solenoids for 4 years now without problems.

 

I had read that if I run a 100 dry shot I should retatrd the timing 2-4 degrees, Would my LS1 automatically do that or do I have to get come type of box

 

on just a 100 shot, dont worry about the timing. just make sure you have 93 plus octane in it and you will be fine.

 

Well from a customers stand point the last thing i want to see is reputable companies acting like children in the forums. How do you expect your potential customers to trust you if you bash each other in the forums.

 

whos bashing who?

 

Where can you get an upgrade kit from dry to wet for 150 bucks? I was looking around and they seemed to all be almost 300. Please let me know, because I picked up a dry kit for really cheap, and wanted to upgrade to wet at some point but it was looking to be the same price to sell the dry kit and buy a brand new wet kit.

Thanks!!
Douglas