derek_silvy

I think I'm really gonna get some spray!

Every1 I've told thinks I'm retarded! It really makes no sense to spray a truck.... but hey, it doesn't make sense to lower one either.

Hopefull a wet kit will be easy to set up.

Thanks for all the help,
Derek

slik98z

shouldn't be too difficult. Wiring up the kit is usually the toughest part. And that is only tough cause it takes time. Make sure you have all the parts you need/want together with each of their own directions. Read over them once or twice, then follow them step by step and you hsould be fine. 5-8 hours by yourself if you've never done n itrous before.

have you ever taking your truck to a track? to me spraying a v8 is spraying a v8. all these people saying "why spray a truck" will be pissed when you spray a 125 shot and w hiz on by them on the street good luck man!
Travis

huggerorangss

Just to get this straight...nitrous does NOT explode in the motor correct? It forces more dense air into the motor with in turn(for a dry kit)makes the computer add more fuel...(and for a wet kit) the fuel solenoid adds more fuel to the car?

Jimmy Smits

This is COMPLETELY wrong. There is no need to watch the bottle pressure on a dry kit over a wet kit (unless it's 150 degrees outside and your bottle is ready to explode, which would be the same for a wet kit - but bottles have a rupture disk that blows out the nitrous if the bottle gets too hot anyway). The lower the pressure on a dry kit, the less it hits, that's all. There is no chance of disaster spraying on a bottle with even zero pressure - no nitrous is added, so no extra fuel is added. Completely safe.

On a wet kit, you have to watch the bottle pressure because you will always be adding the same amount of fuel, no matter what your pressure is. Same fuel is added at 1100 PSI, as is added at 600 PSI.

taqwache

i had a friend with a 2000 camaro and a TNT 175 on it. every weekend he would go through a whole 15lb bottle. after about a year, the motor spun a few rod bearings. i tore the motor apart and could not find any reason for the spun bearings. the only thing i can think of was the constant beating they had on them from the nitrous. there was no signs of running lean or any other problems. also he kept his oil changed, so yes, useing nitrous, or doing any kind of power mods on a motor will shortan the life span of it. this is just something you have to expect when raceing.

Magic Chicken

iTrader: (1)

Nitrous Oxide is not flamable. It increases the air density and volume in the engine, which leads to better, more efficient combustion, which leads to more power. It does the same basic thing as SC's and TC's, forces more air into the engine. More air = more power.

The only reason people blow their motors is because they were stupid and sprayed too much on a motor that wasn't modified to handle the extra power. Same thing will happen with SC'd and TC'd motors.

It depends on who you talk to about the limits of n2o on a stock motor. I spray 150 without a problem. Wet kits are considerably safer than dry kits, but slightly more difficult and costly to install. Don't forget the fuel pressure safety switch, it'll save your engine in the event of a malfunction and loss of fuel pressure.

My $0.02

Jimmy Smits

The lack of knowledge on here is scary.

Please tell me how you came to this conclusion, albeit the wrong conclusion.

Magic Chicken

iTrader: (1)

Wet kits don't rely on the MAF and injectors to supply the extra fuel needed to compensate for the n2o. That adds potentially 9 more points of failure. I will agree with you on the fact that you need to watch bottle pressure on a wet kit, but I'd disagree that you don't have to watch bottle pressure on a dry kit. If your pressure gets too high and spray more n2o than your MAF and injectors are capable of compensating for you're done, albeit would have to be a pretty big shot.

Magic Chicken

iTrader: (1)

4 words: Fuel Pressure Safety Switch

Doesn't matter what kind of kit you have, it will disable the n2o if your fuel pressure drops below safe levels. Quite possibly the most important piece of the system.

Mn Avalanche

Well my 2 cent's on this is i love nitrous it cheap reliable power.Yu should see peeps faces after i kick there asses launching with a 150 shot off the line in 4 hi in my 6000lb beast.

Jimmy Smits

You do know they make these little things called JETS right?

Magic Chicken

iTrader: (1)

Umm... Yeah, what is your point? You gonna get out and change your jets when your pressure gets too high? That's what we were talking about, pay attention, especially when you're trying to flame people...

Need2gofaster

I was scared to death the first time i hit my 150 shot..... but now i'm prety confident it the whole system. I got the nx wet kit with bottle heater, fuel pressure cutoff, WOT switch, and TR-6 plugs. All these are important when running a large shot. Also one guy said he was going to do NO2 instead of a new TC...Do both and ou will **** your pants next time you see your timesheet!!

blkZ28spt

Just an FYI, sorry if you mistyped and knew this, but it's N20, NOT N02. I see people put N02 all the time, esp on TV shows and stupid ****.

tooquick2beslo

I have been reading about bottle pressure and Nitrous.
When I ran my 13.53 I only had 800 psi in the bottle. What do you think is the best pressure in the bottle? I have read hot rod magazine say 1100-1000 psi. What do you think ? What do you think I would run with that kind of bottle pressure. I think I was only spraying a 100 shot when I ran that time ,If that.

tooquick2beslo

That is true what are you talking about ?

I have a buddy who blew up his motor on a dry shot.
Dry shots dont compensate for extra fuel like a wet shot does.
If you spray a 100 dry shot and the motor doesnt have enough fuel well its going to detonate there is nothing there to stop it. ON a wet kit ther eis extra fuel.

Magic Chicken

iTrader: (1)

If you are jetted for 100 shot and were at 800 PSI, chances are you weren't shooting a full 100. From everything I've read, between 900-1100 is good, and my NX gauge's green zone is in that same range. I try to keep mine at around 1000. But that's just me. I'm sure Mr. Smits will have another flame for me on that one though.

blkZ28spt

With a dry shot the MAF adds extra fuel. It doesn't do it LIKE the wet shot does, but it gets it done. Which way is safer depends on lots of variables. What happens if your solenoid/etc that supplies the fuel for the wet kit takes a crap??

Edit: I should be more specific, the MAF does not add the extra fuel obviously, but it tells the computer to add more fuel to compensate for the extra air.

Magic Chicken

iTrader: (1)

The way I see it, wet kit has 1 point of failure (fuel solenoid) for fuel delivery (not including the fuel pump) and the dry kit has 9 (MAF + 8 injectors, not including the fuel pump).

I think the dry guys and the wet guys are just going to have to agree to disagree.

Dustin 98TA

I just converted to a dry kit from a wet kit. I will probably go back wet eventually because it hits a little harder.
My fuel solenoid failed to open with a 125 shot, It didnt cause any damage, I heard it pinging and I got out of the throttle.
These engines are more durable than I thought.
I have full bolt ons H/C, 11 to 1 comp ratio, on a stock tune and it still didnt grenade the motor.