How bad for the motor is it?
My fuel solenoid failed to open with a 125 shot, It didnt cause any damage, I heard it pinging and I got out of the throttle.
These engines are more durable than I thought.
I have full bolt ons H/C, 11 to 1 comp ratio, on a stock tune and it still didnt grenade the motor.
If you want to spray more from a dry kit safely, there is another peice of the puzzle that you have to include along witht he larger fuel pump...injectors. the 28.8 lb injectors that come in some of our cars can handle a dry shot without using jets, which is reported around a 150 shot. i wouldn't recommend that on stock injectors, but on a set of 30 lb svo injectors or larger...i doubt there would be a problem.
another issue with upping the dry shot has to do with bottle pressure. the recommended bottle pressure is in the 800-950 range. colonel in his write up discusses keeping the bottle pressure upwards of 1000. doing it the right way is the part that is of most importance.
read up on colonels webpage. great information there about dry kits.

I'm not going to go over the setups as it seems to be pretty well covered already.
Good luck and just be sure #1 you get all the safty parts and #2 have fun
Dry is most commonly used for 75-100 HP gains.
Wet for 75-300 HP.
Direct Port for 300+.
The choice of system type should start with your plans for the car, not random opinions on which is safer.
Dry is most commonly used for 75-100 HP gains.
Wet for 75-300 HP.
Direct Port for 300+.
The choice of system type should start with your plans for the car, not random opinions on which is safer.
very good point. If you are just starting out on a nitrous kit, i would personally go with a dry kit or a single nozzle or fogger wet kit and spray no more than a 125 shot. after a year or two after getting to know the system and most likely upgrading it along the way, thats when id start looking into the NXL kit or the MAF kits.

I can also get the delay, which allows N20 to come on after 2nd gear. I want to run 125 wet.
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I can also get the delay, which allows N20 to come on after 2nd gear. I want to run 125 wet.
My buddy is running ET Streets with his 4.10's and A4, he was also shooting a dual stage 400 wet shot and launching with the 1st stage.

Now when the bottle pressure gets lower, then you will be spraying a lesser shot.
Jesus man, you need to learn some ****...
Now when the bottle pressure gets lower, then you will be spraying a lesser shot.
Jesus man, you need to learn some ****...

Whatever you say man, I'm done with your ignorant ***.

Edit: Actually I'm not. If you're jetted for a 100 HP shot (wet or dry) at 1000 PSI and you're bottle pressure goes to 1300 PSI you WILL be spraying MORE than a 100 HP shot regardless if it's wet or dry. Same if you have low bottle pressure, you WILL be spraying LESS than 100 HP regardless if it's wet or dry. Jets are pressure dependent, dumb ***.
Now I'm done with your ignorant ***.
Last edited by Magic Chicken; Aug 24, 2004 at 03:52 PM.
yes thats the sound of no one giving a ****

now...with this being a newbie to nitrous oxide...the original person who started the thread that is, whom we are attempting to help ahhh yes we remember now...Do we think fiddling with eachothers *** holes is going to help him with his decision?
yes jets are pressure dependent. Wet kits will make more power baring same variables. GENERALLY SPEAKING, if you spray a 125 shot wet, it will give you 125 rwhp. agan GENERALLY SPEAKING if you spray a 125 shot with your normal bottle warmer and **** its going to give you just aroudn 100 rwhp. there is a loss because of how the fuel and nitrous is supplied.
now are we done trying to figure out who is right and who is wrong? cause honestly it has nothing to do with this thread...


Edit: Actually I'm not. If you're jetted for a 100 HP shot (wet or dry) at 1000 PSI and you're bottle pressure goes to 1300 PSI you WILL be spraying MORE than a 100 HP shot regardless if it's wet or dry. Same if you have low bottle pressure, you WILL be spraying LESS than 100 HP regardless if it's wet or dry. Jets are pressure dependent, dumb ***.
Now I'm done with your ignorant ***.

Please do not spread you automotive knowledge, or lack there of, to anyone else...
Please do not spread you automotive knowledge, or lack there of, to anyone else...
Last edited by blkZ28spt; Aug 25, 2004 at 12:17 AM.
If your thumb is covering the end of the hose, no matter what the pressure is, no volume is getting by your thumb, as your thumb is restricting the flow. Do you get it now?
Placing a certain size jet over the end of the hose will allow a maximum amount out of the hose at a given time. You can regulate this with the pressure, but when you reach the maximum, that is all that can get by at a given time, regardless of pressure (unless the hose blows into pieces). A 125 jet is the MAXIMUM that is allowed passed at a given time, regardless of how high the pressure is. When the pressure drops, then the maximum can no longer be achieve, therefore you get a smaller shot.
Last edited by Jimmy Smits; Aug 24, 2004 at 11:55 PM.
If your thumb is covering the end of the hose, no matter what the pressure is, no volume is getting past your thumb, as your thumb is restricting the flow. Do you get it now?
Why do you think there is a recommended maximum pressure for nitrous and why do nitrous gauges have a red zone above 1100 PSI? It's not because that pressure is going to blow up the bottle, the burst disc doesn't blow until 3000 PSI or so. The red zone on a gauge is there to tell you not to use it because it will shoot more nitrous than intended and could have undesireable effects. High pressure isn't bad for the bottle (unless it's 3000+ PSI), it's bad for your engine. Take 2 full bottle to the dyno, heat one to 1000 PSI and the other to 1500 PSI and let us know how it goes.
But you have too much time invested in this conversation/flame war to back down now, so I know you never will no matter what proof I throw at you. Like I said before, I'm done with you, no matter what else you say, I will not respond anymore, it's useless, start a new thread about bottle pressure and it's effects on HP. Anyone care to pick up the torch where I'm leaving it off?
MAGIC CHICKEN is correct
JIMMY SMITS is wrong
bottle pressure/fuel pressure effects how much or how little n2o/fuel goes through your jets.
more pressure more n20/fuel
less pressure less n20/fuel
if your fuel pressure is too high you get too much fuel and go rich
if your fuel pressure is too low you dont get enough fuel and go lean (really BAD)
if your n2o pressure is too high (>1100psi) you get too much n2o and go lean
if your n20 pressure is too low (<800psi) you dont get enough n2o and go rich
jesse
MAGIC CHICKEN is correct
JIMMY SMITS is wrong
bottle pressure/fuel pressure effects how much or how little n2o/fuel goes through your jets.
more pressure more n20/fuel
less pressure less n20/fuel
if your fuel pressure is too high you get too much fuel and go rich
if your fuel pressure is too low you dont get enough fuel and go lean (really BAD)
if your n2o pressure is too high (>1100psi) you get too much n2o and go lean
if your n20 pressure is too low (<800psi) you dont get enough n2o and go rich
jesse
Second, I never said pressure has no effect on how much n2o is allowed pass the jet, I already stated that it does; since obviously the lower the bottle pressure the lesser the shot.
My argument is - The jet only allows a MAXIMUM amount pass (being whatever the jet size is, ie a 125 jet will only allow enough nitrous pass to achieve 125 hp, no matter if the pressure is 1500 or 1000. Just because the bottle is at 1500 psi, that does not mean your 125 jet all the sudden turns into a 150 jet.
Occording to Tweety Bird, your 125 jetted shot turns into a 150 jetted shot if the bottle goes from 1100 psi to 1500 psi. And that is incorrect!

