sticking noid?
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how common is it for a noid to stick? i want to run a 150 shot on my camaro but the whole nitrous just spraying in my motor when i dont have it on seems to be a problem with me.
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run redundant solinoids. I run two at engine and one as the bottle opener, so when system is off I have three way protection and no chance of filling engine un wanted. When activated two n2o solinoids will eliminate the stuck open problem. I have had a dirty noid stick open before. Better safe than sorry.
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but if one gets stuck it's going to leak into your motor while the other one holds it back if in a parallel setup unless you do it inline but then how will you know if it gets stuck?
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Robert yours must be a dry set up right? This wouldn't really protect against a fuel noid sticking shut which seems to be the most common failure.
Ron, if you run a good filter and rebuilt your noids once a year you should be just fine. Seems more peole have problems with noids sticking shut than open(have heard about it acouple of times though). For extra protection you could also buy a Dyno Tune A/F ratio switch. These hook up to the O2 sensors and if the O2's take a major dive the nitrous system will be shut down.
Ron, if you run a good filter and rebuilt your noids once a year you should be just fine. Seems more peole have problems with noids sticking shut than open(have heard about it acouple of times though). For extra protection you could also buy a Dyno Tune A/F ratio switch. These hook up to the O2 sensors and if the O2's take a major dive the nitrous system will be shut down.
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Robert yours must be a dry set up right? This wouldn't really protect against a fuel noid sticking shut which seems to be the most common failure.
Ron, if you run a good filter and rebuilt your noids once a year you should be just fine. Seems more peole have problems with noids sticking shut than open(have heard about it acouple of times though). For extra protection you could also buy a Dyno Tune A/F ratio switch. These hook up to the O2 sensors and if the O2's take a major dive the nitrous system will be shut down.
Ron, if you run a good filter and rebuilt your noids once a year you should be just fine. Seems more peole have problems with noids sticking shut than open(have heard about it acouple of times though). For extra protection you could also buy a Dyno Tune A/F ratio switch. These hook up to the O2 sensors and if the O2's take a major dive the nitrous system will be shut down.
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First of all both wet and dry set ups will hurt motors. While smaller dry set ups have been proven to be safe, larger shots are notorious for running on the leaner side without a good nitrous tune and I have been through it myself when I got sick of a measley 100 shot. Secondly if a fuel noid sticks shut on a wet kit your fucked, the computer will not add any fuel since you are spraying beind the MAF. I've had one fail while running diagnostics and the O2s dropped to .050 (just alittle lean!). If the N2O noid did stick shut on a a wet kit (which is not very common) it is not a big deal, the car will bog and go rich but there will be no major puddling and no back fire as long as your above 3,000 rpm. LS1 and LS6 intakes flow fuel just fine, many TNT owners have sprayed 250+rwhp shot throught these intakes. Now if you tried spraying at a low rpm yes you can kiss your intake, MAF and lid good by. Both wet and dry setups are good if used and tuned correcly. However, in Rons case he wants to run a 150 shot and to do that with a dry set up he will probrably need to run to different tunes for the car, one N/A and one for the N20 or he'll have to settle with a super rich N/A tune. Now, if he went with a wet set up he could easily run a 150 shot on the factory tune.
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
First of all both wet and dry set ups will hurt motors. While smaller dry set ups have been proven to be safe, larger shots are notorious for running on the leaner side without a good nitrous tune and I have been through it myself when I got sick of a measley 100 shot. Secondly if a fuel noid sticks shut on a wet kit your fucked, the computer will not add any fuel since you are spraying beind the MAF. I've had one fail while running diagnostics and the O2s dropped to .050 (just alittle lean!). If the N2O noid did stick shut on a a wet kit (which is not very common) it is not a big deal, the car will bog and go rich but there will be no major puddling and no back fire as long as your above 3,000 rpm. LS1 and LS6 intakes flow fuel just fine, many TNT owners have sprayed 250+rwhp shot throught these intakes. Now if you tried spraying at a low rpm yes you can kiss your intake, MAF and lid good by. Both wet and dry setups are good if used and tuned correcly. However, in Rons case he wants to run a 150 shot and to do that with a dry set up he will probrably need to run to different tunes for the car, one N/A and one for the N20 or he'll have to settle with a super rich N/A tune. Now, if he went with a wet set up he could easily run a 150 shot on the factory tune.
edit: found thread on this sight from yesterday, check it out, good stuff.
Last edited by Robert56; 10-11-2004 at 09:27 PM.
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Yea, one of our members is running a 2 stage 250 dry shot. I believe that he's running 10.8s with stock internals. I'm not sure how much tuning he had to so but maybe he'll see this thread.