Rods, pistons, cam for nitrous use?
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Looking to build a 402 or 408 stroker and need advice on rods, pistons, and a cam. Thinking about going turbo in the future so it'll have to be low compression, thinking around 8.5:1. Will be spraying at least 150 wet shot of nitrous (maybe more depending on parts) starting out until I can afford the turbo. My price range for the stroker kit is between $3000-$4000. So what rods, pistons, and cam would you all recommend for this application? Thanks.
Edit: Would like to build this thing so it can handle up to 1000HP so it's ready in the event I get the turbo going.
Edit: Would like to build this thing so it can handle up to 1000HP so it's ready in the event I get the turbo going.
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a stock crank isn't going to hold 1k horsepower, and you're not gonna get 402 or 408 with a stock crank. i would at the least go with a Callies crank, but the Lunati is the only one i've seen that has held up at those kinds of power numbers. Crower, Eagle, Lunati, and several other guys make rods to work. JE and Diamond are the piston makers i would trust with a setup like you're talking about. i have JE pistons and crower rods going into the motor i'm building and they have both been great to deal with. as far as the cam, something with a good traditional split will work best with nitrous and since you're building a bigger cube motor you don't have to worry about going to big. i would say get something like the thunder T-REX on a 112 with maybe a little more lift if you wanted, and maybe even a little more split. i think it's TEA that has a set of stage 2 heads with a nitrous specific exhaust port that would be a good thing to look into as well. with a motor that big, getting air in/out of it is going to be the biggest factor of making the huge power you want.
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The crank is the easy part of the equation, it'll be a stroker crank in a 6.0 block. Cranks have less than a 1% chance of breaking, rods and pistons on the other hand are different story.
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We have a few eagle cranks pushing that kind of horsepower....we've never seen any ls1 crank regardless of manufacturor break due to power....there are guys pushing 1000-1200 hp on stock cranks (346 turbo setups)
Z28maro, i think you shouldnt state facts that you dont have basis on.
Z28maro, i think you shouldnt state facts that you dont have basis on.
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My motor I am putting together is Made just for nitrous, no street driving or anything
408 ci
Callies Crank
Grp Aluminum Rods (Have to be replaced every 120 passes)
Diamond Domed Nitrous pistons with Gas Parts (14.1 compression)
Hellfire Rings
408 ci
Callies Crank
Grp Aluminum Rods (Have to be replaced every 120 passes)
Diamond Domed Nitrous pistons with Gas Parts (14.1 compression)
Hellfire Rings
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For what its worth, there are realy only 2-2 companies that accualy make cranks, then they distribute them out to egle,scat, ect ect. same with rods. Same with valve springs. there are only 3 companies that make them. some may not believe this, but it is true, you would have to do some research, but you will find out what i just said.
Think about this. 4340 is 4340 no matter what. like 304 stainles is 304 no matter what. however some companies buy a crank and take extra time to polish them and knife edge them ect ect, but as for the stregth, 4340 is 4340.
Stock crank has proven to hold over 1k hp (Thanks Harlan)
As for pistions, i say Dimond is doing some of the best pistions for these cars, but hell fire rings should be used jmo 8.5 comp is a bad idea, id go atleast 10-1 or more, my car is around 12-1, no need to drop it like a forced ind car, n2o likes compresion.
as for rods, again all pretty much the same, but i run lunatie and i polished them myself (for oiling reasons) But Scat rods are probably one of the best, they take a rod and do all there **** to it, like beed blasting and polishing, real nice stuff.
cam with n20 for street driving, i say custom grind someplace around the 240 range and 600 range with a 110 or 112lsa. dont want to go to wide on lsa do to cylender pressure
Good luck with it, and with good parts and gas and the right tune up it shouls fly
Think about this. 4340 is 4340 no matter what. like 304 stainles is 304 no matter what. however some companies buy a crank and take extra time to polish them and knife edge them ect ect, but as for the stregth, 4340 is 4340.
Stock crank has proven to hold over 1k hp (Thanks Harlan)
As for pistions, i say Dimond is doing some of the best pistions for these cars, but hell fire rings should be used jmo 8.5 comp is a bad idea, id go atleast 10-1 or more, my car is around 12-1, no need to drop it like a forced ind car, n2o likes compresion.
as for rods, again all pretty much the same, but i run lunatie and i polished them myself (for oiling reasons) But Scat rods are probably one of the best, they take a rod and do all there **** to it, like beed blasting and polishing, real nice stuff.
cam with n20 for street driving, i say custom grind someplace around the 240 range and 600 range with a 110 or 112lsa. dont want to go to wide on lsa do to cylender pressure
Good luck with it, and with good parts and gas and the right tune up it shouls fly
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So instead of making us all do our own research, spread the wealth.
Who are the select few companies that make the parts and distribute them to the other companies? After all, this is a place of knowledge sharing.
Scat had a 4340 crank break according to this guy http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=256875 which would lead me to believe that not all 4340 is created equal, unless they were indeed advertising cheaper steel as 4340.
I want low compression because I plan to go turbo in the future and don't want to have to rebuild it again. Plus with gas prices they way they are right now (cheap Chevron is $2.45), I can deal with the loss in power due to low CR. However, race gas would be used on race days and tuning.
I'd love to use the aluminum rods, but this is a daily driver.![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
So back to the original question...
Rods, pistons, and cam?
Don't care about cranks. Thanks for all the input so far. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Scat had a 4340 crank break according to this guy http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=256875 which would lead me to believe that not all 4340 is created equal, unless they were indeed advertising cheaper steel as 4340.
I want low compression because I plan to go turbo in the future and don't want to have to rebuild it again. Plus with gas prices they way they are right now (cheap Chevron is $2.45), I can deal with the loss in power due to low CR. However, race gas would be used on race days and tuning.
I'd love to use the aluminum rods, but this is a daily driver.
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
So back to the original question...
Rods, pistons, and cam?
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
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Rods, i say scat or lunatie, pistons i say dimond with hell fire rings. cam, i gave the specs i thought.
4340 is 4340, but that doesnt mean there isnt an imperfection in a piece or 2.
4340 is 4340, but that doesnt mean there isnt an imperfection in a piece or 2.