Hey guys, i need some help. I installed a NX wet kit on my lt1 a few months ago, and it worked fine. My bottle heater didn't work, so just as of a few weeks ago i fixed my bottle heater, and now it wont spray anymore What could be wrong? Could something have went bad?? I have a msd window switch also, i thought maybe that was the problem? Im not sure. but any and all help would be great. THanks, David.

 

Have you rechecked all of your wiring and connections?

Your problem description is kind of vague.

 

Yes i checked all my connections, my arm switch even lights up, but it just wont spray fuel or nitrous. I undid the lines to the nozzle, then reved the car up and hit the wot switch from under the hood, nothing. BUT it did work at one point, so it kind ajust stopped. Any susgestions?>
Thanks, Dave

 

Did you check your fuse? or grounds? maybe a relay? I would also try bypassing the wot switch and see if it works.

 

did you disconnect the battery when you fixed the bottle heater? Maybe the setting on the window switch cleared. I did not see if you had a digital window switch or not, that could be a possible.

 

Do you have an FPSS?

Put a jumper wire in place of the start pill no your window switch and jumper the leads for the FPSS if you have it. Then test the WOT switch with the key in the run position not with the car running.

If this doesn't work eliminate the WOT switch and check again.

If the doesn't work recheck the wiring for your solenoids and so on.

 

I dont have a fuse for the n20 system, I wired it just like the install book said and it didn't say anything about a fuse. I checked all the ground and there fine, and how do i bypass the WOT switch and how do i test it without it?? THanks guys, David.

 

I do not have a FPSS and i dont have a digital msd switch, i have the one with the two pills. I also have installed a MSD 6al ignition box since and haven't sprayed since i installed that. The MSD rpm window switch is going right to the computer wire for the tach. THanks, Dave

 

Anyone?

 

Unfortunately you're going to have to test by process of elimination. Close the bottle, turn the car on and arm the system. Put a brick on the accelerator, or something to make the WOT sensor think you're WOT, take a test light probe the wire at different places starting at the 12V source, before and after the WOT switch, before and after the window switch (there should be no voltage after it). Have someone start the motor and rev it into the window and see if you get voltage after the window switch. If all this checks out start probing after the relay.

Either that or try reversing whatever you did to 'fix' your bottle warmer.