Nitrous tuning, spark plugs ect
Phil
retard timing, then run certian fuel press on the n2o side, then do a pull, read the AF and check the plug. adjust the fuel and bottle psi a little and if she's real rich or lean then change the fuel psi.
if you tune the car perfect all motor, drop the timming out with a 200 shot id say 18-20* of timming with good gas. do a pull. read the AF. looks good spray it, the tune shouldnt change much if the n2o is set up correct.
what size shot?
what you look for is a nice even color around it. depending on fuel will determine color. make sure there are no signs of detination (small holes in the porslin ect)
check for yellow spots (these are usualy lean signs)
make sure the ground strap is still on and didnt melt off. hehe (been there done that)
Once you make a nitrous pass shut the car off(no idle) and tow it back to the pits. Pull the plugs and look at the electrode to see where the color changes. The color should change right at the bend. If its close to the electrode tip than you add timing, if its closer to the spark plug threads than remove timing.
You need a spark plug magnifier and look into and around the porcelain. You need to find the fuel ring. If it comes up more than 1/16" than you need to lean the car out. If its less than 1/16" than you need to add fuel. Does this make sense?
what i do is make a pass, shut it down, but i bring my plug wrench and plugs. i pull 2 or 3 plugs out, swap them, drive back to the tralor and read them but towing works if you have a way to
Stay on top of bottle psi, especially when the shot size starts to get big. You don't want to tune for 1000psi or whatever and then make a pass at 900psi and try to compare that to anything bc the a/f will be off. Your fp should be checked to make sure it's constant through the run. After that it's a matter of working the n2o/fuel jets, adding/pulling fuel through your tuning software and working the timing maps.


