Having Problem
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 12
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Having Problem If any one could help that would be great.
When I am spraying when it kicks in sometimes it hits and goes and other times it stutters 4 to 5 times and then goes. Does anybody no what this could be. Maybe time for new spark plugs. Not sure. Thanks for the help. Here is what I have done to the car.
I want to spray and this sucks.
2001 Quicksilver
395 RWHP 400 RWTorque Motor
??? HP ??? Torque Nitrous
Mods:
Bpp fogger System 150 Shot
Cartek Clutch with master and slave, BPP 3.90 Hd Output Shafts Differential.
Corsa's Titanium Street Cat Back, BPP Long Tube Step Headers, BPP Off Road X Pipe, Thunder Racing 224/224-112 Cam, Comp Cam Valve Springs, Comp Cam Titanium Retainers, Thunder Racing Pushrods, BPP Vortex Rammer Cold Air System, BPP Vortex Power Air Duct, BPP Silicone Coupler, BPP Ported T.B., Nology Plug Wires, 172 High Flow Thermostat, BPP Coolant Bypass Kit, Bpp Custom Tuning, Cags Eliminator,Shorty antenna, Hood Seal, Red mats, Blockout rear plate. BPP Non Pop Up Headlights with HID Version, MOMO Combat Color Shift ****, Kenwood KVT-911DVD Head Unit, Sirius Add On, Kenwood Keg, Xtant A4004 Amplifier Titanium Edition, Xtant A3001 Amplifier Titanium Edition, JL Audio Stealthbox with 10W3-D2, Boston Acoustics 6.5 Pro Series Front, Boston Acoustics RX57 Rear, 5% tint on sides and back, front window has platinum.
When I am spraying when it kicks in sometimes it hits and goes and other times it stutters 4 to 5 times and then goes. Does anybody no what this could be. Maybe time for new spark plugs. Not sure. Thanks for the help. Here is what I have done to the car.
I want to spray and this sucks.
2001 Quicksilver
395 RWHP 400 RWTorque Motor
??? HP ??? Torque Nitrous
Mods:
Bpp fogger System 150 Shot
Cartek Clutch with master and slave, BPP 3.90 Hd Output Shafts Differential.
Corsa's Titanium Street Cat Back, BPP Long Tube Step Headers, BPP Off Road X Pipe, Thunder Racing 224/224-112 Cam, Comp Cam Valve Springs, Comp Cam Titanium Retainers, Thunder Racing Pushrods, BPP Vortex Rammer Cold Air System, BPP Vortex Power Air Duct, BPP Silicone Coupler, BPP Ported T.B., Nology Plug Wires, 172 High Flow Thermostat, BPP Coolant Bypass Kit, Bpp Custom Tuning, Cags Eliminator,Shorty antenna, Hood Seal, Red mats, Blockout rear plate. BPP Non Pop Up Headlights with HID Version, MOMO Combat Color Shift ****, Kenwood KVT-911DVD Head Unit, Sirius Add On, Kenwood Keg, Xtant A4004 Amplifier Titanium Edition, Xtant A3001 Amplifier Titanium Edition, JL Audio Stealthbox with 10W3-D2, Boston Acoustics 6.5 Pro Series Front, Boston Acoustics RX57 Rear, 5% tint on sides and back, front window has platinum.
Start by checking if the noids are sticking or look for junk in the nozzles or distribution blocks. I had a new nitrous solenoid that would stick sometimes and it would studder sometimes just like you described. Are you running a Fuel Pressure Safty Switch, that could be the culpret if it's not adjusted right or is going bad. Also, do you use a purge set up? Do you have anyway of logging what's going on with the car when it studders? If it's not a misfire of some sort I suspect that the car is going pig rich on the initial hit. I've seen my share of lean spikes and even a fuel noid failure and the car never surged or stubbled when going lean. I would also check out the plugs and atleast regap them. 
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 12
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I do not have a fuel safety shut off and don’t have anyway of seeing what happens when I spray. I have a purge and warmer and the psi is around 1000 to 1100 when I spray. I have not changed the plugs for about 2 years and have about 30,000 on the car. I changed them before 2 to 3 times but not with in the last 2 years. Also how do I check to see if they are sticking. I have a wot switch and window switch so could I manually make them spray and how. Thanks for your quick help.
Yeah it's definalty time for a plug change. The gaps may have opened up and you could be blowing out the spark. As far as testing the system here's what I usually do. Just take a wire that's a couple of inches and strip both ends. The loop it and plug it into the window switch where the "ON" pill would usually go, this will set the the "ON" rpm to 0. Then start the car an bump the WOT switch with your finger. Just make sure no fuel or nitrous can make it's way into your motor.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
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Ok I will change plugs and see if that helps i have a msd window switch with to pills one says 3300 and one says 6600 i beleive. Where do I put the wire. Which pill do I pull out. Also I think my wide open swith is done thru my computer some how. Like when the pedal is all the way down and the volts change and it activates. I dont have a push switch somewhere. So would I do the wire thing and then push the pedal all the way down and see if it sprays good. Should I unhook the gas noid or no. Thanks again for all the quick Help I really appreciate it.
Pull the 3,300rpm pill and put your wire in there. I have never used a WOT switch like that but if you have a wiring schematic for it you should be able to bypass it easily and have someone hit the master arm switch for you. If you can't figure it out you should be able to turn the key to the "On" position to perform the test, this makes it hard to watch the fuel flow but it should give a good spit of fuel. When I test I unhook the lines at the nozzles. I usually put the gas lines in a 16oz coke bottle and just point the nitrous lines away from me and then make sure that both the fuel and nitrous are flowing fine. It's also a good time to check for junk in the jets and nozzles. If your nozzles are easy to remove you could probrably just take them out to perform your test but you will have to watch alittle closer to see if their are and hicups, esspecially with the fuel.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
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Ok one last question. When I pull the pill I think there is too prongs on it so do I stick one end of the wire in one hole where the prong came out and the other end of the wire in the other hole where the other prong was. Also the nos should be easy to tell because it will keep spraying and have lots of pressure but for the fuel it will only have the pressure that is built up once I shut my car off right. So only some should shoot out. Again sorry for so many questions. Thanks again for the last time.
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Verdad Gallardo Yeah, that's how you jumper it. I attached a pic of my jumper wire below so you know what it looks like. When you turn your ignition to the "on" postion it will kick the fuel pump on to pressurize the system and then it will shut off, it should hold about 50psi. So when you bump the system with the ignition on it will give a quick spurt then die off. If your fuel noid is dead you should see no fuel or just alittle trickle. It's easiest if you have someone in the car to arm the system and step on the pedal so you can really watch what's going on. No problem with all the questions, don't hesitate to ask more if you need to.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
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Wow this is the fastest I have every gotten answers from a forum. Maybe I will ask another question 
. is the wire just plain wire for electric with the little strands once you strip it or is it one piece once you strip it or does it not matter. Thanks again
. is the wire just plain wire for electric with the little strands once you strip it or is it one piece once you strip it or does it not matter. Thanks again It's a special wire I had to order, I sell them for $29.95 shipped.
Just kidding. It's a normal wire like 14 gauge or so, just strip the ends then twist the strands tight with your fingers.
Just kidding. It's a normal wire like 14 gauge or so, just strip the ends then twist the strands tight with your fingers.
Thanks again for all your help. I will try this weekeknd. I hope it is the plugs. 