Yes Boys And Girls This Is Why You Get The Right Spark Plugs
01-27-2005, 02:19 PM
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Yes Boys And Girls This Is Why You Get The Right Spark Plugs Ok, well 150 Shot through stock spark plugs will yield these results. Along with a detonated motor. Thank god the LS1 is strong, I'm sure there is got to be piston damage, and valve damage to say the least, but hoping that they melted and exhausted out the motor.
running on 4 Cylinders the past month was fun... it felt sluggish, but I had "NO" idea until we pulled the plugs. Anyways the TR6's are in, gapped to .40 and hitting the 150 shot quite nicely. Make sure if you do something, that its done right. LS1 motors are quite strong, and thank god my warranty company didnt have to buy me another one (YET)
Oh yeah dont bother on bashing me about it, I feel bad enough, but the car is still running strong, I'm sure with a few ponies less, but overall I'm still racing this weekend. Enjoy...
running on 4 Cylinders the past month was fun... it felt sluggish, but I had "NO" idea until we pulled the plugs. Anyways the TR6's are in, gapped to .40 and hitting the 150 shot quite nicely. Make sure if you do something, that its done right. LS1 motors are quite strong, and thank god my warranty company didnt have to buy me another one (YET)
Oh yeah dont bother on bashing me about it, I feel bad enough, but the car is still running strong, I'm sure with a few ponies less, but overall I'm still racing this weekend. Enjoy...
01-27-2005, 04:22 PM
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Well LS1's have piston slap because the rings dont seat well until the motor warms up so maybe they fell into the rings and sealed them better because it didnt slap at all this morning. Yeah I should change the fuel filter, good idea.... I only have 18K miles on the car though...
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01-27-2005, 10:32 PM
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Well, you can do a search and find several cases like that, one being my buddy Drew778, did the same thing ,except using TR6 plugs and chunked valve in the process. Second time, yes again, he did, he had to replace the bottom end as it broke the block, piston and head damage. You really should drop timing, and regap to a safer .035" or so. .040" is still to wide for my likings with Tr6 and 150 shots. I ran mine at .035 for 150 and had plenty of miles and passes on them, so I know it works, as wide as .040 and I am sure you will be replacing plugs a little more often and causing more harm than good. Just $.02.
Charlie
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01-27-2005, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Well, you can do a search and find several cases like that, one being my buddy Drew778, did the same thing ,except using TR6 plugs and chunked valve in the process. Second time, yes again, he did, he had to replace the bottom end as it broke the block, piston and head damage. You really should drop timing, and regap to a safer .035" or so. .040" is still to wide for my likings with Tr6 and 150 shots. I ran mine at .035 for 150 and had plenty of miles and passes on them, so I know it works, as wide as .040 and I am sure you will be replacing plugs a little more often and causing more harm than good. Just $.02.
Charlie
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Now why does the wider gap make it worse? I thought the wider the gap the cooler it would run.
I thought the point of getting the colder plug was so that you could tighten the gap and not get a spark blow out yet still be withen tolerance lvls. Please explain further if you don't mind.
I am about to replace my plugs and some people are telling me .055 for the gap and yet I read .040 or less for 150 shots and tr6's. I want to be able to understand this so I know what I am doing instead of just doing it.
01-27-2005, 11:08 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Mike K.
Now why does the wider gap make it worse? I thought the wider the gap the cooler it would run.
I thought the point of getting the colder plug was so that you could tighten the gap and not get a spark blow out yet still be withen tolerance lvls. Please explain further if you don't mind.
I am about to replace my plugs and some people are telling me .055 for the gap and yet I read .040 or less for 150 shots and tr6's. I want to be able to understand this so I know what I am doing instead of just doing it.
I thought the point of getting the colder plug was so that you could tighten the gap and not get a spark blow out yet still be withen tolerance lvls. Please explain further if you don't mind.
I am about to replace my plugs and some people are telling me .055 for the gap and yet I read .040 or less for 150 shots and tr6's. I want to be able to understand this so I know what I am doing instead of just doing it.
01-28-2005, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
this is what I understand, stock extended tip plugs at wide gap ( I agree on .35 as cat3 stated) will blow out, and because on n2o the cly press is high causing heat the extended tip (red hot) turns into a blow torch once spark is blown out and thus the problem. Pulling timing also helps as stated. I'm sure someone can explain a little better?
01-28-2005, 01:16 AM
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Hard to explain, aasy to visualize but here:
Wide gap vs. cylinder pressure with shots 150+ equals no spark = loss break up and incomplete burn which can cause detonation and other not so good things. For a visual test try this at home:
Get a two new sets of plugs, brand new TR6 type.
Install one set t .040" make a pass and immediately pull off return, pull plug and examine the flame front or timing mark on the plug, the color etc.
Then install a new set gapped at .032-.035" and do the same. I noticed a more compete burn and absolutely no speckles of destruction with a smaller gap. Not trying to pinch off the ground strap to the electrode, just tighten it up some so the cylinder pressure haas less effect on the spark intensity. I ran a set gapped .040" on the street for one month, in which i went to the track every Fri and Sat night running 150 shots. I had to replace the plugs after the month as they were showing not good signs. I did the same with the tighter gap and and ran them for over 6 months without any issues, even ran a few *conservative right!* bottle of 175 same gap and no issues! That could be good for me and bad for you, but seen where it more than just on my setup.
Plugs shouldnt be gapped over .010 from manufacturer specs either, FWIW.
Wide gap vs. cylinder pressure with shots 150+ equals no spark = loss break up and incomplete burn which can cause detonation and other not so good things. For a visual test try this at home:
Get a two new sets of plugs, brand new TR6 type.
Install one set t .040" make a pass and immediately pull off return, pull plug and examine the flame front or timing mark on the plug, the color etc.
Then install a new set gapped at .032-.035" and do the same. I noticed a more compete burn and absolutely no speckles of destruction with a smaller gap. Not trying to pinch off the ground strap to the electrode, just tighten it up some so the cylinder pressure haas less effect on the spark intensity. I ran a set gapped .040" on the street for one month, in which i went to the track every Fri and Sat night running 150 shots. I had to replace the plugs after the month as they were showing not good signs. I did the same with the tighter gap and and ran them for over 6 months without any issues, even ran a few *conservative right!* bottle of 175 same gap and no issues! That could be good for me and bad for you, but seen where it more than just on my setup.
Plugs shouldnt be gapped over .010 from manufacturer specs either, FWIW.
01-28-2005, 02:20 AM
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I understand what you are saying but would a gap that tight be ok for runs up to 150 mph with a little 5th gear action?
You are saying keep the gap tight so cylinder pressure doesn not affect spark. Now what is the effect of having to close of a gap? Too much heat on the plug and the chance of melting it off?
You are saying keep the gap tight so cylinder pressure doesn not affect spark. Now what is the effect of having to close of a gap? Too much heat on the plug and the chance of melting it off?
01-28-2005, 02:24 AM
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Reduced power and possibly after prolonged use in such case I would imagine it would prematurely deteriorate the ground strap or electrode correct. Reduced power would be noticable first with a hesitation/stumble to accelerate. I have ran the TR6 at .032" for 175 and 200 shots, after which I went to a colder plug with gap of .032-.035".
01-28-2005, 03:52 AM
#17
wow... i ran my stock plugs for prolly 10 100 shot passes and 5 150 shot passes on a car with just lid and intake.. they came out a lil hot looking, but not burnt up, i then replaced with tr6's never had a problem.. i then swapped to an autolite.. burnt up 4 plugs just as you did.. maybe even worse looking.. swapped back to tr6's at teh track and the car ran its best n/a pass it had at that point.. has never really seemed to slack off much, but imma have to run it again soon and get some new times on it.
im currently about to replace the fuel pump, new plugs, and get a dyno tune and prolly hp tuners. after this i plan on atleast running forged pistons and prolly rods to with the stock crank and a cam.
wonder if my stock stuff is messed up or if i got lucky?
im currently about to replace the fuel pump, new plugs, and get a dyno tune and prolly hp tuners. after this i plan on atleast running forged pistons and prolly rods to with the stock crank and a cam.
wonder if my stock stuff is messed up or if i got lucky?
01-28-2005, 09:54 AM
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The thing I dont like about the Autollites there (on the left) is the ground strap is not centered over the electrode like it would be for a NGK TR6 plug. Why? Well, the strap will now have one single point to concentrate its spark from, the path of least resistance thing. Makes a narrow intense spark, I like the spark to have the ability to be a little wider, using more of the contact area the plug was made for. Iridium plugs are my exception, they offer less resistance throughput so you get a cleaner, more intense discharge and very concentrated! Platinum, your stock right plug, very not good! The cylinder pressure rips the platinum disc off and you end up having ppl posting up, hey I sprayed and now I have a stumble..posts. Stock plugs=POS.