z06 and nitrous suggestions
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 66
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From: cowtown USA
wet vs. dry has been debated to death not just on this forum, but eveywhere else.before i made my decision i tried to soak up ALL the info i could and made my own personal choice on what i learned.what i do know is that my wet kit pulls like a runaway freight train and i'm completley satisfied w/the performance/safety on my ls6. 
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Ok I have to put my 2cents on this one. [This is just info and not a slam on wet or any kit, remember, if ya can't pay don't spray. I like that statement. 
I will counter some of your comments. I am in know way bashing dry kits but there are 2 sides to a coin.
... I agree on dry if you go past 125hp, time for injectors. But, that added cost is worth it considering the safety built into redunant n20 noids on the dry kit. Why redunant noids the solenoid should be of enough quility not to need to be redunant.
More to the point,
on wet if your fuel noid sticks closed it is going to continue to spray n2o and then no way to add additional fuel (your after maf)so you run lean and problems (boom).
This does not happen on dry kits.
Your are right on a dry kit there is no fuel noid. But if you injector goes down on dry kit, guarenteed to cost a piston. If an injector goes down on a wet kit there is a better chance of just nipping a plug.
Wet kit and fuel noid sticks open, you'll keep pumping fuel even after you stop n20 shot, and fuel puddling can cause top to blow.
This does not happen on Dry.
Fuel solenoid sticking open not likely. I looked over 5 years of sales. Only a handfull of fuel solenoids have been stuck open, the reason trash. Customer did not have a proper fuel filter on the car.
Wet kit n2o noid sticks closed and now your pumping extra fuel and causing a rich condition that sometimes leads to the dreaded intake/hood removal, just do a search and you'll see this does happen.
This does not happen on Dry.
Wet nitrous noid sticking closed, bad wiring. Users error, really not likely.Also the condition you are describing is not caused by overly rich. More times then anything cuase by lugging the engine
Wet kit and n2o noid sticks open after run at lower rpm, boom. Not a guarantee but likely more cars have just died or turn off. That is why there are filters for your nitrous kit.Dry kit noid sticks open your will add fuel and nitrous car will keeping trying to RPM.
This does not happen on 5177 dry with redunant noids. Back to the quality, no need for redunant noids. Previous comment
And also the low pressure bottle problem above points to dry as safer.
You can run a wet kit at lower bottle pressure with less performance of course. Really a wet kit owner knows how the car feels and knows "hey this does not feel right".
I believe Cartex is changing one of their big dog cars over to dry system, so maybe dry will get some respect in the future. I have run mostly wet over the last 20+ years, but I like dry on the ls1/ls6 for reasons stated and more.
__________________
Corvetteforum wet/dry thread[/QUOTE]
Ok now a Dry kit does work, and a wet kit does work. There are pros and cons to both. Most of the time when a problem does happen, the first responce will allways be it is the nitrous' fault. When in reality racers create there own problems. We have all heard and said "I just need a little more." If the nitrous system and car are used in a proper fashion both kits are fine.
On the dry kit one of those noids fails and just got your *** handed to you by a honda (ricer).
Now I am not a big fan of the dry kits. Being in competition with other nitrous companies that build dry kits. Also knowing just how safe and reliable wets kits are. The other companies build them, and if they were not safe nobody would use them. The wet kit does get a bad rep for back fire or explosions. The reason it is a more powerful kit, and when a problem does happen all around will know it.
I would recomend if money is the issue purchase the dry kit. After getting use to that system and then wanting more then convert to a wet kit. Or even better find a couple of friends one dry and one wet and see which one you like better.
Ricky
I will counter some of your comments. I am in know way bashing dry kits but there are 2 sides to a coin.
... I agree on dry if you go past 125hp, time for injectors. But, that added cost is worth it considering the safety built into redunant n20 noids on the dry kit. Why redunant noids the solenoid should be of enough quility not to need to be redunant.
More to the point,
on wet if your fuel noid sticks closed it is going to continue to spray n2o and then no way to add additional fuel (your after maf)so you run lean and problems (boom).
This does not happen on dry kits.
Your are right on a dry kit there is no fuel noid. But if you injector goes down on dry kit, guarenteed to cost a piston. If an injector goes down on a wet kit there is a better chance of just nipping a plug.
Wet kit and fuel noid sticks open, you'll keep pumping fuel even after you stop n20 shot, and fuel puddling can cause top to blow.
This does not happen on Dry.
Fuel solenoid sticking open not likely. I looked over 5 years of sales. Only a handfull of fuel solenoids have been stuck open, the reason trash. Customer did not have a proper fuel filter on the car.
Wet kit n2o noid sticks closed and now your pumping extra fuel and causing a rich condition that sometimes leads to the dreaded intake/hood removal, just do a search and you'll see this does happen.
This does not happen on Dry.
Wet nitrous noid sticking closed, bad wiring. Users error, really not likely.Also the condition you are describing is not caused by overly rich. More times then anything cuase by lugging the engine
Wet kit and n2o noid sticks open after run at lower rpm, boom. Not a guarantee but likely more cars have just died or turn off. That is why there are filters for your nitrous kit.Dry kit noid sticks open your will add fuel and nitrous car will keeping trying to RPM.
This does not happen on 5177 dry with redunant noids. Back to the quality, no need for redunant noids. Previous comment
And also the low pressure bottle problem above points to dry as safer.
You can run a wet kit at lower bottle pressure with less performance of course. Really a wet kit owner knows how the car feels and knows "hey this does not feel right".
I believe Cartex is changing one of their big dog cars over to dry system, so maybe dry will get some respect in the future. I have run mostly wet over the last 20+ years, but I like dry on the ls1/ls6 for reasons stated and more.
__________________
Corvetteforum wet/dry thread[/QUOTE]
Ok now a Dry kit does work, and a wet kit does work. There are pros and cons to both. Most of the time when a problem does happen, the first responce will allways be it is the nitrous' fault. When in reality racers create there own problems. We have all heard and said "I just need a little more." If the nitrous system and car are used in a proper fashion both kits are fine.
On the dry kit one of those noids fails and just got your *** handed to you by a honda (ricer).
Now I am not a big fan of the dry kits. Being in competition with other nitrous companies that build dry kits. Also knowing just how safe and reliable wets kits are. The other companies build them, and if they were not safe nobody would use them. The wet kit does get a bad rep for back fire or explosions. The reason it is a more powerful kit, and when a problem does happen all around will know it.
I would recomend if money is the issue purchase the dry kit. After getting use to that system and then wanting more then convert to a wet kit. Or even better find a couple of friends one dry and one wet and see which one you like better.
Ricky
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
Ok I have to put my 2cents on this one. [This is just info and not a slam on wet or any kit, remember, if ya can't pay don't spray. I like that statement.
I will counter some of your comments. I am in know way bashing dry kits but there are 2 sides to a coin.
... I agree on dry if you go past 125hp, time for injectors. But, that added cost is worth it considering the safety built into redunant n20 noids on the dry kit. Why redunant noids the solenoid should be of enough quility not to need to be redunant.
More to the point,
on wet if your fuel noid sticks closed it is going to continue to spray n2o and then no way to add additional fuel (your after maf)so you run lean and problems (boom).
This does not happen on dry kits.
Your are right on a dry kit there is no fuel noid. But if you injector goes down on dry kit, guarenteed to cost a piston. If an injector goes down on a wet kit there is a better chance of just nipping a plug.
Wet kit and fuel noid sticks open, you'll keep pumping fuel even after you stop n20 shot, and fuel puddling can cause top to blow.
This does not happen on Dry.
Fuel solenoid sticking open not likely. I looked over 5 years of sales. Only a handfull of fuel solenoids have been stuck open, the reason trash. Customer did not have a proper fuel filter on the car.
Wet kit n2o noid sticks closed and now your pumping extra fuel and causing a rich condition that sometimes leads to the dreaded intake/hood removal, just do a search and you'll see this does happen.
This does not happen on Dry.
Wet nitrous noid sticking closed, bad wiring. Users error, really not likely.Also the condition you are describing is not caused by overly rich. More times then anything cuase by lugging the engine
Wet kit and n2o noid sticks open after run at lower rpm, boom. Not a guarantee but likely more cars have just died or turn off. That is why there are filters for your nitrous kit.Dry kit noid sticks open your will add fuel and nitrous car will keeping trying to RPM.
This does not happen on 5177 dry with redunant noids. Back to the quality, no need for redunant noids. Previous comment
And also the low pressure bottle problem above points to dry as safer.
You can run a wet kit at lower bottle pressure with less performance of course. Really a wet kit owner knows how the car feels and knows "hey this does not feel right".
I believe Cartex is changing one of their big dog cars over to dry system, so maybe dry will get some respect in the future. I have run mostly wet over the last 20+ years, but I like dry on the ls1/ls6 for reasons stated and more.
__________________
Corvetteforum wet/dry thread
I will counter some of your comments. I am in know way bashing dry kits but there are 2 sides to a coin.
... I agree on dry if you go past 125hp, time for injectors. But, that added cost is worth it considering the safety built into redunant n20 noids on the dry kit. Why redunant noids the solenoid should be of enough quility not to need to be redunant.
More to the point,
on wet if your fuel noid sticks closed it is going to continue to spray n2o and then no way to add additional fuel (your after maf)so you run lean and problems (boom).
This does not happen on dry kits.
Your are right on a dry kit there is no fuel noid. But if you injector goes down on dry kit, guarenteed to cost a piston. If an injector goes down on a wet kit there is a better chance of just nipping a plug.
Wet kit and fuel noid sticks open, you'll keep pumping fuel even after you stop n20 shot, and fuel puddling can cause top to blow.
This does not happen on Dry.
Fuel solenoid sticking open not likely. I looked over 5 years of sales. Only a handfull of fuel solenoids have been stuck open, the reason trash. Customer did not have a proper fuel filter on the car.
Wet kit n2o noid sticks closed and now your pumping extra fuel and causing a rich condition that sometimes leads to the dreaded intake/hood removal, just do a search and you'll see this does happen.
This does not happen on Dry.
Wet nitrous noid sticking closed, bad wiring. Users error, really not likely.Also the condition you are describing is not caused by overly rich. More times then anything cuase by lugging the engine
Wet kit and n2o noid sticks open after run at lower rpm, boom. Not a guarantee but likely more cars have just died or turn off. That is why there are filters for your nitrous kit.Dry kit noid sticks open your will add fuel and nitrous car will keeping trying to RPM.
This does not happen on 5177 dry with redunant noids. Back to the quality, no need for redunant noids. Previous comment
And also the low pressure bottle problem above points to dry as safer.
You can run a wet kit at lower bottle pressure with less performance of course. Really a wet kit owner knows how the car feels and knows "hey this does not feel right".
I believe Cartex is changing one of their big dog cars over to dry system, so maybe dry will get some respect in the future. I have run mostly wet over the last 20+ years, but I like dry on the ls1/ls6 for reasons stated and more.
__________________
Corvetteforum wet/dry thread
On the dry kit one of those noids fails and just got your *** handed to you by a honda (ricer).
Now I am not a big fan of the dry kits. Being in competition with other nitrous companies that build dry kits. Also knowing just how safe and reliable wets kits are. The other companies build them, and if they were not safe nobody would use them. The wet kit does get a bad rep for back fire or explosions. The reason it is a more powerful kit, and when a problem does happen all around will know it.
I would recomend if money is the issue purchase the dry kit. After getting use to that system and then wanting more then convert to a wet kit. Or even better find a couple of friends one dry and one wet and see which one you like better.
Ricky[/QUOTE]
Ricky, I am not in disagreement with what you said, it all seems right on. My point is (nothing against the wet kits as I have run and am running wet on harley) when safety is a concern imo dry is safer.
You asked: Why redunant n2o noids the solenoid should be of enough quality not to be reduant.
My reply: It's not about quality(I will admit that the NX noids are better but NOS has equal if you pay the additional $$) so much as safety. I have had a n2o noid stick open (not NOS brand) and thats not a good thing, danger-danger. Now with a back up noid you will have no problems on dry if one noid fails. The chances of both noids failing at same time are about 0. With this added safety built in I do not purge lines at end of day and any time I start car bottle automaticaly opens. Now this would be a benifit on wet kits also, but considering the additional cost to kit they don't do it, but can on dry because of less parts/cost per package. Both wet/dry need a good filter because this is the biggest reason for failure: dirt.
You state: Fuel solenoid sticking open not likely. I looked over 5 years of sales. Only a handful of fuel noids have stuck open, the reason trash. Customer did not have a proper fuel filter on car.
My reply: You said it, a handful, now if you multiply that by all the venders/companys you'll have quite a lot of guys with $$ repairs. So my contention is dry is safer because this can not happen. Once again a good filter is in order.
You say: Wet nitrous noid sticking closed, bad wiring. User error, really not likely. Also the condition you are describing is not caused by overly rich. More times than anything cause by lugging.
My reply: Bad wiring, fuse, relay and sometimes switch equals, "really not likely", but certainly can happen. It will not on a dry kit. I agree on the lugging issue, well said.
You say: dry kit noid sticks open you will add fuel and nitrous car will keep trying to rpm. Back to quality, no need for redundant noids.
My reply: If the noid sticks open and you shut down and don't know it, then come back later and start car-boom. This is not going to happen with redunant noids (read: safety).
You say: On the dry kit one of those noids fails and just got your *** handed to you by a honda (ricer).
My reply: True, but only your pride is hurt. Lets say a guy in a TR Z06 running 500/500+ runs a honda and blows the launch and gets his lunch handed to him, would he be a fool to admit this on a national thread...
Granted, wet is fairly safe today; however my contention is, if both the wet and dry kits are set up correctly as per manufacturers specs, you have a greater chance of $$ repairs concerning mechanical/electrical failures on wet.
Some think that a dry doesn't have the power that a wet does, not true. If you jet the same, and run the same a/f, you'll get the same results. NOS is very conservative on their jet ratings for safetys sake on dry kit, but you can up the ante if you want the real 100hp at rw. I have mine jetted for 150hp at rw.
One last thing, I have no connection with NOS or any vender or company. Wet or dry, n2o is the best bang for the buck going.
Thanks for your input, Ricky, you have my respect for your views and knowledge and a way to say it without offending.
