just asking for some input. i have a 02 z06,and want to run some laughing gas.i have been reading alot of post on this and it is OVERWELMING.on my reading these post i am leaning towards a dry system of about 100-125 shot.
i do not want to break parts and blow motors. is this a safe choice? is there someone out there with a z06 who has had success with nitrous?can you advise me on what you where able to get away with safely? thanks for your help.

 

You can run the dry kit or the wet sysytem.Neither one of them are going to blow motors unless the install is done improperly.If it was my car I would do the NX single nozzle kit,Genx2,window switch and plug change.If you have any tech questions fill free to shoot me a pm.
Dave

 

Yes, I am running the NOS 5177 and have run it at 75, 100, 125hp on stock stuff. Now running a dry/dry dual stage (still 5177), but am changing over to a dry/wet stage (still the 5177) with dual window switches and first gear lock out. Check out my web site for some n2o install pics (my '97 but basically the same on the Z06) and check out my links section for some good info on the dry vs wet issue. Imo, if both the wet and dry kit are set-up/tuned correctly the wet has a bigger chance of costing $$ for repairs, concerning mechanical failures, where as the dry does not. You can find the instances I am talking about if you go to links and check out the corvetteforum thread link, but you have to get deep into it for what I mentioned. The dry (5177) is the easyest, cheapest, safest most complete kit out there, and very versitile I might add. Whether, you go dry or wet you'll love the giggle gas.

 

We sell a Corvette specific kit with instructions for the zo6. It is a wet kit, we can also do a dry kit for you at a very resonable price. Worried about blowing something up? You can always use the DynoTune A/F nitrous switch that monitors your a/f ratio and will shut down the system if it runs lean. Let me know if there is anything questions I can answer for you.
www.DynoTune Nitrous.com

 

Most of the Z06 guys I see running nitrous, are using the TNT wet setup. They have some DAMN impressive results.

I'm not sure if you have already done so, but check out www.z06vette.com/forums if you have more questions, or just want different opinions or suggestions.

 

My friend has been running the NX shark Nozzle wet kit on his 02 Zo6 for the past 2 years with absolutely no problems. He has been using the 150 jets the entire time. I would definetely recommend wet just because of the gains. The car is insane with a 150 wet shot and is capable of going 11 teens or high 10s with traction (BFG G force ta's) at 125+ mph on a stock Zo6. Definetly get the window switch although my friend hasn't used one I try to explain the importance of one to him but he doesn't want to hear it. He has his bottle mounted right inbetween the seats but behind, so that he just turns around and opens the bottle with his left hand. I run the TNT wet 150 on my SS and I love the kit but for the ease and simplicity of the NX kit, you can't go wrong. As mentioned above, just have it installed correctly and spray away. Tr6s are a must as well.

 

what about the dry system,can you tell me more.what is the cost.

 

Our Dry kits are just about ready to hit the streets. Like all our products it will be very reasonably priced. Stay tuned!
Dean

 

Do a search on the power ring if you're considering the TNT. Lots of folks have trouble getting it to fit the TB. For what it's worth, a good friend just went from a dry to a wet system and told me he thought it was a night and day difference. He loves the wet system. (NX EFI...)

 

My advise if if you are afraid to break parts:

1) Don't drag race a M6

2) Don't spray at all

Personally I'd be more afraid of killing my engine missing a shift than afraid of the bottle.

 

I agree, if you are worried about breaking things dont do it. You will find yourself replacing the clutch very shortly. Then is you race on sticky tires, expect to be buying a rear end. The engine should be OK though if the kit is tuned properly. Be sure to tune it on the dyno using a wide band O2.

 

i did the juice on my car [nx 150 shot w/all the bells & whistles-by our own nitro dave]imo, wet is best. stronger & safer.most of the problems involving motor catastrophe on wet kits are from the wrong tune [lean] or backfires from spraying @ too low rpm [lugging the motor-fuel puddling] do it man!! this stuff will turn your Z into a fire breathin' monster!!!

 

speaking of clutchs did you burn yours up quickly?

 

how 'bout immediatley! i just had them install a spec III while it was in the shop for the n20 install.so far it's holding strong w/just a little noise & chatter on release.

 

My Z runs real nice with a TNT F-2 kit.I haven't had it to the track yet with the spray but it feels like a high 10 car.

 

what shot are you running? and did you ever have any problems?
how long did your clutch last?
thanks jim

 

I don't see how you can say the wet system is safer after the potential problems you just admited to.
The wet "kits" have many more parts and bell/whistles as you say, so they cost a good deal more than would simply piecing together a dry system for $200-$400, so I'm sure that has a lot to do with salesmen favoring the wet kits.

 

Here is a copy of one reply on the wet/dry thread I mentioned (link below) these are just a few of the reasons imo why dry is safer and a good starter kit. This is just info and not a slam on wet or any kit, remember, if ya can't pay don't spray.

... I agree on dry if you go past 125hp, time for injectors. But, that added cost is worth it considering the safety built into redunant n20 noids on the dry kit.

More to the point,
on wet if your fuel noid sticks closed it is going to continue to spray n2o and then no way to add additional fuel (your after maf)so you run lean and problems (boom).
This does not happen on dry kits.

Wet kit and fuel noid sticks open, you'll keep pumping fuel even after you stop n20 shot, and fuel puddling can cause top to blow.
This does not happen on Dry.

Wet kit n2o noid sticks closed and now your pumping extra fuel and causing a rich condition that sometimes leads to the dreaded intake/hood removal, just do a search and you'll see this does happen.
This does not happen on Dry.

Wet kit and n2o noid sticks open after run at lower rpm, boom.
This does not happen on 5177 dry with redunant noids.

And also the low pressure bottle problem above points to dry as safer.

I believe Cartex is changing one of their big dog cars over to dry system, so maybe dry will get some respect in the future. I have run mostly wet over the last 20+ years, but I like dry on the ls1/ls6 for reasons stated and more.
__________________
Corvetteforum wet/dry thread

 

thanks for all your info
are you running the ngk plugs. if so what is the plug number

 

Tr6's gapped at about .035 is probably the most popular plug. Check the plug threads going for some good insight on plugs as some of the guys have tried many different types. Part number? I don't know off hand, someone?