Continued discussion: Injector size and MAF flow rate with dry shots.
#61
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Oh...and get to a dyno at some point. Since you are ACTUALLY brave enough to find the point of MAXIMUM fuel delivery...it would be nice to know what it really is in terms of HP. What year vette is this too?
#62
CAT3, I hear ya barkin big dog. I have faith in people that they could learn and do anything if they realy wanted to. I'm sure you weren't born with the ability to blueprint an engine, but a little bit of reading and doing(or maybee a lot?) and you can now do it with ease. The effort required for this circuit would be the equivalent of setting valve lash for ya after you leaned and did a little.
#63
Originally Posted by Homeslice (tm)
Yeah I'm finding that people for some reason want to be able to use the bottle kind of halfway, which is completely alien to me.
#64
Originally Posted by Y2K2LS1
Because there are not many hardcore nitrous users spraying stock internal cars with 3.15 gears. Most people are already making good motor power, and have steep gears. Some want to come out on 1 stage, and then use a 2nd in a higher gear. Or even a progressive kit. And in my case, a single 200 hit would not work well in 1st gear on a radial tire. I do see your theory though. Basically the injectors are like 8 fuel solenoids in your setup. Why not run a aftermarket regulator up front and control the fuel pressure rather than adding n2o? Just a thought. Hopefully you find the sweet spot of nitrous flow before you find the limit of your hypereutectic piston! I would also be very interested in what it dynos.
Well I'm of the mind that when something breaks, I'll replace it with better. I'm planning on the stock tranny going, that'll be replaced with something stout. If the motor goes, well I always wanted a big cube LS1 lol.
I doubt it'll dyno all that impressive. I mean the point of the car is that it really isn't all that fast... but its extremely fast for what it is.
#65
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Regardless of the finer points of the tuning. I am still just curious of the "benifits" of doing something in this manner.
Again...basically you guys have maxed the MAF and accompanying fuel system as soon as you spray...and then are adding more juice to get the Af to a decent level. Im not too worried about the injector issue. How often do they really fail?
The point I fail to understand is why?
If your goal is to go as fast as you possibly can without changing ANYTHING with the fuel system...then this could make sense to me. Spray the MAF wires....max out everything...then bring the nitrous flow up to a good AF level. Fine...I can buy that.
But now if you want to go faster and make more power...what now?
What if you want to spray a little less...you will run very very rich. Thats just inefficient. Seems to me you have locked your parameter to a narrow margin. Again...if thats what your looking to do exactly...fine. I myself would like a little more versatility and control.
Again...basically you guys have maxed the MAF and accompanying fuel system as soon as you spray...and then are adding more juice to get the Af to a decent level. Im not too worried about the injector issue. How often do they really fail?
The point I fail to understand is why?
If your goal is to go as fast as you possibly can without changing ANYTHING with the fuel system...then this could make sense to me. Spray the MAF wires....max out everything...then bring the nitrous flow up to a good AF level. Fine...I can buy that.
But now if you want to go faster and make more power...what now?
What if you want to spray a little less...you will run very very rich. Thats just inefficient. Seems to me you have locked your parameter to a narrow margin. Again...if thats what your looking to do exactly...fine. I myself would like a little more versatility and control.
The way i see it is if they wanted to run a smaller shot, they could always put the bottle pressure to some crazy psi before launch to lean it out a little. But it would go fat again up at the traps.
Mike
#66
It's been said before a few times that Homeslice has Edit,
so it should be obvious that it only runs as conservately as he wishes it to,
no matter what the jet, or what the MAF output is.
so it should be obvious that it only runs as conservately as he wishes it to,
no matter what the jet, or what the MAF output is.
#67
Originally Posted by Homeslice (tm)
I didn't choose to do the fuel regulator thing because I hate adding restrictions. I'd rather take away nitrous restriction and add power.
Well I'm of the mind that when something breaks, I'll replace it with better. I'm planning on the stock tranny going, that'll be replaced with something stout. If the motor goes, well I always wanted a big cube LS1 lol.
I doubt it'll dyno all that impressive. I mean the point of the car is that it really isn't all that fast... but its extremely fast for what it is.
Well I'm of the mind that when something breaks, I'll replace it with better. I'm planning on the stock tranny going, that'll be replaced with something stout. If the motor goes, well I always wanted a big cube LS1 lol.
I doubt it'll dyno all that impressive. I mean the point of the car is that it really isn't all that fast... but its extremely fast for what it is.
#68
Originally Posted by Y2K2LS1
I'd ask what it runs, but something leads me to believe you might use this stock appearing vette to win $$. I'm interested in the setup though. (for the next time I rent a C5 while on vacation)
#69
Originally Posted by Homeslice (tm)
11.0@127. Not race car material but certainly not slow for a stock car.
#70
Originally Posted by 93LS1RX7
Nice times but a 200 shot kind of eliminates the stock car part. BUt like I said if all you have is the juice then those are really good times.
#71
i have a question... How are you making you 5177 kit into a dual stage? I already have 2 msd switches so im guessing i could use one on each selenoid. set one to start at 3000 and the other at ? .... and then i would put the feed line between the two noids or just let it flow through one then the next like its supposed to?
Thanks
Thanks
#72
Originally Posted by Homeslice (tm)
11.0@127. Not race car material but certainly not slow for a stock car.
#73
Originally Posted by SVC707
i have a question... How are you making you 5177 kit into a dual stage? I already have 2 msd switches so im guessing i could use one on each selenoid. set one to start at 3000 and the other at ? .... and then i would put the feed line between the two noids or just let it flow through one then the next like its supposed to?
Thanks
Thanks
#74
so 2 more noids, one for each side like the normal 5177 setup...
where should i set the second shot at 3500?
and no matter what else ive been reading i will be going with some other injectors. I am fogging from the box with shark nozzles that point in the direction to the back of the box... so it doesnt actually hit the maf but goes in the direction.
where should i set the second shot at 3500?
and no matter what else ive been reading i will be going with some other injectors. I am fogging from the box with shark nozzles that point in the direction to the back of the box... so it doesnt actually hit the maf but goes in the direction.
#75
I am currently setting mine up at about 3200 and 4500 with first gear lock out for traction/launch and to help avoid the torque spike. Also using dual windows, but bmn/msd. The bmn has first lock out. Wiring diagram in my web site under photos.
#76
It seems Dry is getting more complicated the more I read all this, injector arguements, MAF output/input arguements, etc...
Think I will stick a custom SX2 DP, two stages of hell no window switchs either, Stage 1 for around 175-200 out of the hole and Stage 2- Hold the Hell on 100-150. If MAF max's out, I'll SD all around. However I love the idea of a Dry Timing tune.
Think I will stick a custom SX2 DP, two stages of hell no window switchs either, Stage 1 for around 175-200 out of the hole and Stage 2- Hold the Hell on 100-150. If MAF max's out, I'll SD all around. However I love the idea of a Dry Timing tune.
#77
Originally Posted by Robert56
I am currently setting mine up at about 3200 and 4500 with first gear lock out for traction/launch and to help avoid the torque spike. Also using dual windows, but bmn/msd. The bmn has first lock out. Wiring diagram in my web site under photos.
Mike
#79
Originally Posted by BMN
I drew it up for him, I could email it to you if you'd like in it's original format.
V6 bird, One more thing, you must click on picture to see full size. Also, some notes on schematic supplied by BMN to clarify some things.