Need some advice. Extreme n00b
Need some advice. Extreme n00b Well, I wanted to stay N/A and get a large cam....after finding out exactly how much that's gonna cost, I changed my plan. Now I want some nitrous 
. Is there a best kit to buy? This is a stock motor, so no more than a 100 shot I figure.
I've looked a thunderracing's stuff but just don't know what to buy. I'm guessing those kits they have is all I will need?
I'm only looking for a car to run high 11's, bottom 12's. I don't want, well, I don't need a rocket ship
.
The only other mod I plan on doing is an LS6 intake. Will I need it tuned after the intake and n2o?
Thanks for any help.
. Is there a best kit to buy? This is a stock motor, so no more than a 100 shot I figure.I've looked a thunderracing's stuff but just don't know what to buy. I'm guessing those kits they have is all I will need?
I'm only looking for a car to run high 11's, bottom 12's. I don't want, well, I don't need a rocket ship
.The only other mod I plan on doing is an LS6 intake. Will I need it tuned after the intake and n2o?
Thanks for any help.
Last edited by john3daly; Feb 17, 2005 at 12:42 PM.
If you want no more than 100 hp shot, then
just do a simple dry system sprayed ahead of the MAF.
You won't need any tuning for that.
You can get the parts for between $300 and $400 bucks if you're careful.
A used bottle is fine, but it's a good idea to get new lines and new solenoid, plus a filter and gauge.
just do a simple dry system sprayed ahead of the MAF.
You won't need any tuning for that.
You can get the parts for between $300 and $400 bucks if you're careful.
A used bottle is fine, but it's a good idea to get new lines and new solenoid, plus a filter and gauge.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
From: South East PA
You can accomplish all your goals with either a dry or wet kit, as stated by white2001s10 a dry kit will spray before the Maf, and your stock computer will compensate for the fuel needed, or you can get a wet kit which pulls the extra fuel and sprays it in with the nitous. If your going to get the ls6 i reccomend you ditch the hpIII and go for a good tune, you'll see better results with a tune from a professional then from a preprogramed source.
Along with most kits your going to want to purchase some accesories, although they aren't necissary, it makes spraying alot safer and sometimes more convienient. Your basic kit should give you everything you need hardware wise.. ie soleniods, lines, wiring, fasteners, etc. Your going to also want to get a WOT (Wide open throttle) activation switch and most likely your going to want some type of window switch, which controlls what rpm the nitrous system is activated. Besides that, there are a bunch of accesories you might want, but thats really up to the buyer.. a bottle heater is a good idea to regualte your pressure as well. hope this helps a little
Along with most kits your going to want to purchase some accesories, although they aren't necissary, it makes spraying alot safer and sometimes more convienient. Your basic kit should give you everything you need hardware wise.. ie soleniods, lines, wiring, fasteners, etc. Your going to also want to get a WOT (Wide open throttle) activation switch and most likely your going to want some type of window switch, which controlls what rpm the nitrous system is activated. Besides that, there are a bunch of accesories you might want, but thats really up to the buyer.. a bottle heater is a good idea to regualte your pressure as well. hope this helps a little
Last edited by Quick 99; Feb 18, 2005 at 02:49 PM.
Thanks for the info guys. Quick99, that's exactly what I was wanting to know. So I can just buy a dry/wet kit, buy a window switch and WOT switch and call it a day?
Also, I got the HPPIII for about $90 off e-bay. Just used it for speedo recalibration mainly, and shift firmness.
Thanks.
Also, I got the HPPIII for about $90 off e-bay. Just used it for speedo recalibration mainly, and shift firmness.
Thanks.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
From: South East PA
As long as your goals are to stay around a 100 shot then you shouldnt need additional mods, when you start to spray closer to 150 shots, the fuel pump should be replaced. Like i said before, there are alot of add-ons out there, but that's pretty much a basic system, addition of a progressive controller or bottle opener are optional, as well as many other items.
Just a couple more things. Do I even need a window switch since I'm only using a dry shot? If not, how the hell will the nitrous know when and when not to spray? Someone told me I didn't need one, nor a WOT switch. Idk....
Also, I have a stall converter, will this be effected by the nitrous?
Thanks again guys.
Also, I have a stall converter, will this be effected by the nitrous?
Thanks again guys.
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The only thing it really needs is a momentary switch that you hold in your hand and control as you drive. If you know what you're doing and don't screw up, then that's all you need for it to work.
Nitrous generally increases your stall's flash RPM, so it will act a little looser while using the bottle. Shift recover is usually at least 500 RPM higher, and sometimes over 1000 RPM more depending on what converter you have and how much you're spraying.
More torque = more stall from the same converter.
Nitrous generally increases your stall's flash RPM, so it will act a little looser while using the bottle. Shift recover is usually at least 500 RPM higher, and sometimes over 1000 RPM more depending on what converter you have and how much you're spraying.
More torque = more stall from the same converter.
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