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Went to the dyno...Need advice?

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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 10:00 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Ok,
Jason.Sorry Im a little behind.I just read your email.
Your lean condition is for two seconds.A spike is normally not as flat as that or that drawn out.You are lean right off the bat.
Questions.
What is your air fuel on motor?
Is the window switch set on the low voltage mode for the LS1?
Do you have a fuel pressure drop?
Let me know so I can help you out.
Dave

Dave,

Thanks for the reply. How do I check to make sure that the BNM is on low volts? A/F just on the motor is steady at 12.5 all the way through.

Thanks,

Jason
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 10:25 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Ok,
Jason.Sorry Im a little behind.I just read your email.
Your lean condition is for two seconds.A spike is normally not as flat as that or that drawn out.You are lean right off the bat.
Questions.
What is your air fuel on motor?
Is the window switch set on the low voltage mode for the LS1?
Do you have a fuel pressure drop?
Let me know so I can help you out.
Dave
Look at the dyno graph again. The reason it's lean right off the bat is because it's spraying at 2000 rpm upon WOT
The window switch is not working
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 10:51 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BluMachine
Look at the dyno graph again. The reason it's lean right off the bat is because it's spraying at 2000 rpm upon WOT
The window switch is not working

It works...we tested it before I sprayed. I armed the nitrous and reved the car to 3200rpm and the green light came on right at 3200rpms and went off at 5800rpm.


There has to be something else?
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown Interceptor
It works...we tested it before I sprayed. I armed the nitrous and reved the car to 3200rpm and the green light came on right at 3200rpms and went off at 5800rpm.


There has to be something else?
Just because the lights work, doesn't mean that it's functioning. There is no way your car makes 225 hp and 560 lb-ft at 2200 rpm without spray. You have apparently by-passed the window switch with the WOT switch.

If you keep spraying it at low rpm, it will blow up
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 04:09 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BluMachine
Just because the lights work, doesn't mean that it's functioning. There is no way your car makes 225 hp and 560 lb-ft at 2200 rpm without spray. You have apparently by-passed the window switch with the WOT switch.

If you keep spraying it at low rpm, it will blow up

I know what your saying...I never spray under 3000rpm. We will have to retrace all the wires and make sure that its hooked up right.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BluMachine
Just because the lights work, doesn't mean that it's functioning. There is no way your car makes 225 hp and 560 lb-ft at 2200 rpm without spray. You have apparently by-passed the window switch with the WOT switch.

If you keep spraying it at low rpm, it will blow up

I just tried it for the hell of it...it is coming on at 2500rpm. I guess we need to look at the wiring again. I guess you were right. Thanks man.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Ok,
Jason.Sorry Im a little behind.I just read your email.
Your lean condition is for two seconds.A spike is normally not as flat as that or that drawn out.You are lean right off the bat.
Questions.
What is your air fuel on motor?
Is the window switch set on the low voltage mode for the LS1?
Do you have a fuel pressure drop?
Let me know so I can help you out.
Dave

Here is my A/F just on the motor.
Attached Thumbnails Went to the dyno...Need advice?-mvc-015f.jpg  
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 08:06 PM
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If the green light is comming on when it is supposed to then the window switch is reading correctly. When the green light is on the purple wire suplies a ground to the relay. After looking at both graphs, it looks like you hit 2000+ RPM then go WOT. If you have the relay hooked incorrectly you would be spraying instantly at those low RPM's. One way you could check it is turn the ON RPM dial to F. That should be 4000 RPM. If it comes on at the same 2500 or WOT RPM then u need to check your wiring. Dont forget, after you make an RPM adjustment, you have to reset it by turning off your ignition or stepping on the brakes(lock-out models).

Last edited by BMN; Mar 15, 2005 at 08:07 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BMN
If the green light is comming on when it is supposed to then the window switch is reading correctly. When the green light is on the purple wire suplies a ground to the relay. After looking at both graphs, it looks like you hit 2000+ RPM then go WOT. If you have the relay hooked incorrectly you would be spraying instantly at those low RPM's. One way you could check it is turn the ON RPM dial to F. That should be 4000 RPM. If it comes on at the same 2500 or WOT RPM then u need to check your wiring. Dont forget, after you make an RPM adjustment, you have to reset it by turning off your ignition or stepping on the brakes(lock-out models).

It should be reset by now I think? I made the adjustment to turn on @3400rpm about a week ago and have been driving the car back and forth to work...BTW I do not have the lockout option working.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 09:34 AM
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The window switch is by-passed and you are spraying as soon as you go WOT whether it's 1000 or 1,000,000 rpm. Look at the dyno graphs again. One time it sprayed at 2200 and the other time at 2500. Be careful not to go WOT below 3500 rpm until you get it fixed. Also, make sure you stay off the limiter when you spray, cause it won't be working at the top either. Spraying on the limiter will produce widespread carnage.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 10:33 AM
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It almost looks like Nitrous is spraying right away and fuel starts flowing at the window switch setting.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert
It almost looks like Nitrous is spraying right away and fuel starts flowing at the window switch setting.
I think your right... N2O on the WOT switch only and fuel on the window switch.... Ungood on the wet cause the MAF can't compensate.
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 11:04 PM
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After all the speculation...it was the window switch. Ed came by and we got it working correctly. I will do a couple of test runs tomorrow and confirm.

Thanks for everyone's help to figure out the problem.

Jason
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